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#3
02-02-2003, 08:26 PM
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There are no secrets that I know of, but are you sure the door is locked? It ain't gonna open it it is, after all.
Does the inside latch appear to work? You may have had the linkage break or fall off inside the door, but the door handle should still work, then. However, if the lock linkage is off, working the button won't do you any good. I can only suggest, not having actually done this, that you attempt to remove the upper trim panel (base of the window) and attempt to pry outwards on the door panel to see what is going on in there. If the lock is jammed, I'm out of ideas, I'm pretty sure there is no way to remove the door panel without wrecking it to get to the latch. There is no way to unscrew the latch plate, either (in which case you could remove the door by unbolting the hinge.....) Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! 
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#4
02-03-2003, 08:36 PM
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stuck door
My 2 cents worth is to have someone with a slim-jim get it open. That should fix the problem.
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#5
02-04-2003, 12:43 AM
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Slimjim won't work on a Benz -- all the linkages are on the inside of the inner panel in the door, no way to get to them from between window and seal....
Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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#6
02-04-2003, 04:35 AM
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same thing happened to my 280e. managed to prise off the door panel and found that the grease on the locking mechanism had dried, stopping the door from being unlocked.
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#7
02-04-2003, 07:13 AM
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I had a 300sel 3.5 do the same thing. It was a parts car and extremely rusted. The door looed like it was locked but it was not. I sat on the seat and applied steady pressure with my legs ( don't kick it or break your shoulder). See if that works.
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"BECAUSE KNOWING IS HALF THE BATTLE" G. I. JOE.
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#8
02-04-2003, 12:05 PM
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tried to pull inside latch while pushing door. not budging, outside latch seems to have nothing attached "no resistance but inside latch seems to have some. any more ideas would be much appreciated thanks.
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1972 280sel 4.5
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#9
02-04-2003, 02:02 PM
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Maybe try reaching out the window with one arm, pressing outside latch - while you try inside latch at the same time.... meanwhile leaning against the door.
Or vice-versa, reach into the open window for inside latch while pulling on outside latch/handle. Does the car have central locking system? If so, let the engine idle with all other doors unlocked.
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#10
02-04-2003, 10:55 PM
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Sounds like the lock is stuck at the latch -- you will need to get the upper trim (base of the window) off and spray some carb cleaner and some spray lithium grease into the latch mechanism.
This happened on my brother's car yesterday -- I was replacing all the lock diaphrams, and that door (driver's rear) wouldn't lock or unlock -- in fact, I thought I'd screwed the linkage up taking the actuator off. So did my brother, but the linkage worked fine so long as it was unhooked from the latch. A little solvent to get all the paint out (from the nasty paint job PO had done) and some grease, and it works like new. Most likely the latch is stuck in the locked position, and nothing you can do will move it (unless the vac system slowly pulls it open) unless you get something into the latch to free it up. Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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#11
02-05-2003, 04:33 PM
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Is it possible to spray something, like WD-40. into the latch area with a nozzle extension, when the window is rolled down?
Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW
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#14
02-06-2003, 11:40 AM
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Usually, it's a leak in one or more of the door lock vacuum servos or a disconnected/broken vacuum supply line.
Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW
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#15
02-06-2003, 08:28 PM
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I just finished replacing almost all the diaphrams on my brother's 75 300D -- I still have a slow leak in the trunk, will see what I can do about that tonight. Three of them were split, and they were all dried out and dirty. I also had to replace the switching valve in the driver's door, didn't hold vac.
First place to check is the yellow plastic line in the engine compartment -- they get brittle up next to the engine (connect to the bottom part of the intake manifold at the rear). A broken line can be repaired with appropriate sized rubber vacuum line. To troubleshoot the rest, I'd strongly recommend a hand vacuum pump -- MitiVac is a commonly available brand, costs between $30 and $45, worth every cent. With it you can apply vac to all the assorted lines and check things out, etc. All the diaphrams must hold vac indefinitely, as the vac is applied constantly. Vac diaphrams are available from Performance Analysis in Oakridge, TN, for $5.00 each -- that's where I bought mine. No affiliation. Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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