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Flex Disc?
I mentioned earlier that I was hearing a thunking sound coming from the rear of the car. I was driving around the other night with a passenger and was noticing the sound more pronounced. I looked under the car today and it would seem to be the flex disc between the drive shaft and the rear differential. I would imagine that the this connection would get loose after awhile and I hear when I engage or let off the accelerator at low speeds.
Can I just tighten it or should I go ahead replace the flex disc? BTW.. I guess I should check the oil level in the rear differential as well.. what kind of oil should I refill it with if it needs it?
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MB 72 250 M130.923 114.011 170k The Beauty Last edited by gmask; 02-02-2003 at 06:28 PM. |
#2
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The only way the flex disk will move is if it is bad -- the bolt holes are sleeved. If it appears cracked or has bits missing, replace it. Not too very difficult, and not too expensive. A bad one will cause thumps upon gear engagement and throttle transisions, also on up downshifts. Else it is usually quiet.
Rear end needs 90W gear oil or equivalent. Multiviscosity and synthetic oils are also fine, so long as they have a 90W rating. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#3
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Noise can also be from the driveshaft center bushing, or the differential mount.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#4
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Quote:
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MB 72 250 M130.923 114.011 170k The Beauty |
#5
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The center mount will give you a shudder under acceleration especially. The diff mount gives a clunk when the transmission shifts.
I don't think you need anything special for the center mount other than wrenches large enough the release the slip joint. And I think you can simply jack the car up, support the diff with a floor jack, unbolt it from the frame, lower it on the jack, remove it, put the new one in, raise it up, and secure it to the frame.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#6
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Cant add much to what the others have said.... but all rubber bushings and the drive-shaft center support bearing on 30 year old merc (especially diesels) should be suspect - I'd change the whole lot as a matter of course, including the subframe bushings at the wishbone ends.
One trick about replacing motor mounts, pumpkin and subframe bushings is that it's wise to go back and tighten the fittings again after they have settled for several thousand miles. And how is the front flex-disc between transmision and driveshaft? If that bastard cracks and lets go, it will raise holy hell as the driveshaft can snag the emergency brake cable. |
#7
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Quote:
I have replaced the motor mounts and still have a ways to go then before I need to retighten. I have the subfram mounts for all around but I haven't gotten around to installing in the front and the rears are coming with my shock absorbers. I was thinking I should just replace all the rubber to do with the rear axil and fortuantely the parts are not very expensive. I'll have to check the flex disc at the trannie and driveshaft.. however the noise I am hearing currently is from the rear. Thanks Adrian
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MB 72 250 M130.923 114.011 170k The Beauty |
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