1972 Mercedes 250 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rgnprof · #1 02-05-2003, 06:34 PM

I just bought this car about 3 months ago and I love it - never had this much fun driving a car! Anyway, I had a few questions, as I'm new to vintage Mercedes.
(1) The clock, which is in the middle of the instrument cluster, runs slow. I lose 5 minutes a day and I happened to find a new clock (off a 1975 240D) at a salvage yard for next to nothing. It's the same clock, but where mine says VDO Kienzle, this one says VDO Quartz-Zeit. Will it work? I know how to take the cluster out, but it looks like to me I am going to need a new rubber seal when I'm done. I have checked the online parts suppliers and I can't seem to find the part listed - any ideas?
(2) I have a slight vibration, coming from under the driver's seat, when I accelerate. I think it's the carrier (intermediate) bearing and rubber mount on the driveshaft. How dificult is this to replace myself? Will I need any special tools and do I have to completely remove the driveshaft?
(3) I also think I need new engine mounts - again , how difficult a job is this? I have changed motor mounts before (91 GMC Van) so I'm not totally unfamiliar to the job.

Thanks in advance - I appreciate any help.

Ryan

Tomguy · #2 02-05-2003, 11:58 PM

1) Yes, in fact it's better - quartz clocks typically "make" (keep) better time. As for the seal, you probably won't need a new one... it's pretty well hidden and you can only tell if it looks like crap when you pull the cluster out.
that's the only thing I know about myself. Otherwise, good luck!

Mark DiSilvestro · #3 02-06-2003, 11:52 AM

If the cluster seal has shrunk and won't grip the dash, you can 'tighten' it by inserting a thin cardboard strip between the cluster and seal.

Happy Motoring, Mark

rgnprof · #4 02-06-2003, 11:56 AM

Thanks for your reply - I plan to try and change out hte clock later this week. I found the seal for $16 from Phil at FastLane/PartsShop, so if I need to replace it - not that big a deal. I was more concerned about whether the new clock would have the same connections to the cluster as the old one. Thanks, Ryan

ctaylor738 · #5 02-06-2003, 01:27 PM

If you have the cluster out, it's a good idea to replace all the light bulbs. I think you have to remove the temperature probe from the block to get it out.

The motor mounts are not a big deal if you have done others.

The only pain on the driveshaft is loosening the slip joint on the front to allow it to slide back. Be sure to mark anything you take apart and put it back in the same position because it is balanced as a unit.

joshhol · #6 02-08-2003, 10:50 PM

I think you have the capillary temp guage on that car. If the temp guage works with the key off, you do.
In that cause, be careful with it when you remove the cluster. Don't agitate that connection or bend the wire that much.
That's all I know.

gmask · #7 02-08-2003, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ctaylor738
The motor mounts are not a big deal if you have done others.

I dunno.. when I did mine I had the exhaust manifold off and that definatley made getting at the right side mount easier. Plus if you have the an AC compressor then thigns ar egoign to be crowded on the right side. The problem you will face is that one of the hex screws for the right side is under the mounting arm. I had to take the arm off the block in order to get to that hex screw. Taking the arm is not very hard but it will be awkward with both the manifold and compressor in the way.

Otherwise you need to use a floor jack to left up the engine once you have loosened the bolts on the mounts and then you can unscrew the two hex nuts on the mount itself and then slide them out.

BTW are the rubber mounts split? How do you know they need to be replaced? I did mine because it seemed like a good time to get it out of the way. The right one is covered by a heat shield so it wasn't until I had actually removed that I could see that it was starting to go bad.

A good number of things will probably need to be replaced if you have this car for very long .. Things to check are the bushing on the lower control arms, check your shock absorbers, check your steering box mounting bolts torque) is there play in the steering wheel), check you muffler for holes while it is running feel for air, check your stabiliser drop links, check your tie rod ends to see if the rubber grease cups have burst and check your subframe mounts.. if they are dripping black rubber stringys then they are bad.

rgnprof · #8 02-09-2003, 04:53 PM

Thanks for the replies - I intend to get some of this stuff done in the next couple of weeks. The weather here has not been very cooperative. I will check out the mounts first - I had a garage tell me that it might eliminate some vibration when the car is idling in drive. I already changed the tie rod ends and I will check out the other items.