Upcoming Valve adjust attempt

[joshhol]

I hope to complete my first valve adjustment job this weekend.
It will be on the 73 280SEL 4.5 (M117-correct?)
I have a crows foot tool and a set of box wrenchs and sockets.
I also have a feeler guage but not sure I got a totally metric set.
On the package it says .04 mm/ .0015 in but it seems more geared towards the standard measurement. The .04 is actually .038, and so it is with the rest of the metric guages.
Can I get a truly metric guage?
What are the intake and exhaust clearances? Are they .04mm and .08mm respectively?
What do I need to watch out for?
I understand the principles but haven't experienced the reality of doing it. I've watched someone do it on the M617. Also have been shown the proper amount of "drag" on the guage.
Things I know: Do it stone cold
loose is better than tight
mark the ones done

Should I have someone watch over me? (don't know if that will be possible)
Seems like I've heard about nuisances of spring retaining collar moving around and locknuts that wont budge or things like that.
I'm a bit of a novice so tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks many times!
Josh

[MikeTangas]

The M117 only requires the special crowsfoot, Sears jobber most likely wont cut the mustard. The one you need has the bottom of the foot relieved. If you can't get the fully metric feelers, use .004" on the intake and .008" on the exhaust. Send me an email and I will reply with my valve adjustment guide, all you have to do is cross off the valves as they get adjusted.

Yes the spring clip can get knocked off/loose, keep a set of offset needlenose handy for installation. However, I have never knocked one off, lucky I guess. No lock nuts to worry about on the 117.

Once you have the valves adjusted you will have to check/adjust the ignition timing. So be sure to have a timing light available. I found on my 4.5 that I get the best results by disconnecting and plugging the vacuum line to the distributor advance and setting to 10*BTDC. Once the vacuum line is reconnected, timing should hover just about 2*ATDC (book calls for 5*ATDC with the vacuum connected).

[psfred]

Josh:

I'm going to do this soon, too -- and replace the head bolt that is broken, too. The head of the bolt fell out when I changed valve cover gaskets the other day.....

You really do need the special wrench, the typical jobber will bend and spread, and then round off the adjusters. This should be a clue as to how hard the adjusters have to be to turn.....

Peter

[joshhol]

It seems that the special tool my mechanic got me is wrong.
It is a 19mm crows foot tool (specifically for Toyota) that he said would work. Paid 27 bucks for it.
Are the adjusters 17mm?
At least I got the cover off to look around and see what I'm dealing with.
Here's what I'm wondering:
1. The retaining clip. Does that need to come off to adjust the valve?

2. Are the adjusters the nut right under the retaining clip, and is that the only thing I need to turn?

3. Slide the feeler guage from the inside (intake manifold side) to check the clearance?

4. Also, where does one attatch a bump starter on this beast?
Cant even see the starter from up top. Do you use the power steering pump nut to turn the engine and do you need to pull some plugs out to let the compression relieve itself?

I want to check chain stretch while I'm in there. The tensioner rail on the right bank looked like it only had 1/8 inch of material left above the steel part of the rail surface.
Seems like I already found two tight exhaust valves.

On the good side, I managed to remove a mountain of junk from my garage.
And yesterday, I saw 3 old MB's bookin around. Two 108's and a 114.
Good to see that.

Thanks!
Josh

[MikeTangas]

Josh,

Yep, the adjusters are 17mm, if you were down south I'd let you borrow mine. You can buy the proper Hazet tool from these folks at Baum Tools, however their site is being reconstructed so you'll have to order by phone. The adjusting tool is about $68.00 or so.

The clips do not need to come off. Yes, the "nut" below them is what you need to turn; clockwise will open the gap if tight, counterclockwise will tighten the gap if loose (none will likely be loose). I don't know if checking from the intake side is where it is supposed to be checked, I check from the intake side because it allows the tool to stay in place while checking.

As for rolling the engine over, no need for a remote starter. It's easy enough to turn at the crankshaft using a 27mm socket and wrench. Quicker to just bump the key if your in a hurry, but if you crank too long you'll build oil pressure and oil will flow from the drip tubes and run right off the head to the floor.

Rough check for stretch, look at the passenger side cam shaft. There is a timing mark there (one on the left side too). Roll the engine until the passenger side cam mark aligns with the timing mark, now take a look at the timing mark on the harmonic balancer. No stretch and the main timining mark will be right on zero. Any stretch and it will be pointing to some degree ATDC.

My bet is you'll find at least 13-14 valves to be too tight.

[1967250s]

Originally posted by joshhol
I saw 3 old MB's bookin around. Two 108's and a 114.
Good to see that.
Thanks!
Josh

Do you mean books? If you have one 108 extra and it covers the 250S, let me know!

Thanks

Dan

[joshhol]

Hey Dan,
No, not books.
Bookin' means- object moving swiftly with clearly defined purpose in mind.
Some slang word from somewhere.
Wish I had some books though. The "Essential Mercedes Coupes ,Cabriolets and Saloons 53-67" is a great book but only covers Pontons and Fintails. It is by James Taylor.

[psfred]

Josh:

Are you old enough to remember 60's slang, or is it being recycled like everything else these days?

Peter

[joshhol]

psfred-
I'm 26. I got that word from my friend who was born in 1963. He used to say that about his wolf hybrids when they were gonna "get" something.

[psfred]

Josh:

Not exactly the usage I remember, but hey, that was thirty-too-many years ago!

My valve adjustment just got put off for work on my brother's 300SDL -- seems to need a master cylinder and the right front suspension is stiff and groaning -- sounds like money to me! Since she will be using one of my cars till I get it fixed, I'm going to do that first.

Peter

[joshhol]

psfred, just curious what the correct usage is.
It may have gotten distorted in the transition down.
I thought it means to move quickly.

Your brother with the SDL, is that the same one with the 115?

Hopefully I'll be adjusting the valves next weekend. I bet it has been a good long time since that car had that done.
take care
Josh

[psfred]

Josh:

Pretty much correct, as in bookin on down the highway -- but NO self-respecting hippie EVER did anything in a hurry!

No, the car in my sister-in-law's W126.

Peter

[240 Ed]

Josh;

The cops came so we booked outa there.

We wuz bookin on down the highway when the dog ran out in front...

Did a carb adjustment the other day, and now she really books!

Basically you did very well!

[joshhol]

Hey,
I finally got the valve adjustment done! Happy day.
Boy does it run much better. It is so much smoother running now.
The intake valves weren't so bad but the exhaust valves were all messed up. All of them were tight, almost in the range of being set at the same clearance as the intake valves!
Unfortunately, the exhaust valve adjusters on cylinder 3 and 6 were rounded off so I couldn't set em. Any ideas on what to do about those?
Thanks
I also got some fresh oil in it yesterday too.

[joshhol]

Can anyone advise on the method to turn those adjusters that were rounded off?
Cylinder 3 and 6 exhaust that is.
If I means removing the cam, I'm going to find a way to turn that darn nut.
Thanks!