220S Vasser Pump - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

joshhol · #1 07-01-2003, 05:53 PM

While the 220 is languishing in the garage, I thought I'd get after that water pump.
What tricky things do I need to know?
What I know so far:
Remove Radiator (preferrebly when cold)
Remove Fan (anything tricky here?)
Remove what nots in the way (ie belts)
Flush system w/citric cleaner
Replace thermostat (test in boiling water 1st)
Remove water pump housing and check for electrolysis R&R if necessary
Clean gasket sealing surface (scrape clean and dont gouge the head)
Replace any suspect hoses
Replace vasser pump gasket and use sealant (what kind?)
Then put it back together.

Is there anything in my plan that is flawed? I have not replaced a water pump before so fire away at my theory.
Is there a trick to getting the water pump back on without having the gasket slip (psfred) or does that not apply for the lack of A/C on this car?

Thanks for the help.

Getting the parts for the brake master and clutch master sure is a pain.

Josh

murray720 · #2 07-01-2003, 06:15 PM

it's funny the reason i was able to get my finnie so cheap was because the previous owner was too lazy to replace the water pump...

anyway this was the first job i did to the old lady and honestly i don't remember taking out the radiator but i do remember everything was very straight forward.

a year later i replaced the thermostat and ended up with a cracked head.

my advise... watch your temp gauge.

when do you expect her back on the road?

joshhol · #3 07-02-2003, 11:55 AM

Quote:

when do you expect her back on the road?

I think I'll have to get down on my knees and pray to Gottlieb Daimler 5 times a day so I can get the right parts for the clutch master/brake/waterpump etc.
It really is a shame when MB transferred old information onto microfiche, they seem to have done a poor job and excluded a lot of variations on parts.
The only hope of finding the right part numbers for certain things seems to be guys who used to have all that literature in their shop way back when and they were wise enough to keep it. Old shop manuals, service bulletins, grease stained yellowed papers of increasingly obsolete facts.

Estimated time back on road: End of July at the VERY latest, aarrggh.

edit: Oh, I thought one needed to remove the radiator to have access to the fan bolts but I suppose one determined enough will get the same result. I might as well have the rad checked even though its new I think there is a very small leak.

murray720 · #4 07-02-2003, 02:22 PM

it's a labor of love...

i think i used a box end to get the propeller fan off but now that i think about it i may have had to remove the radiator anyway to allow for the clearence to completely extract the water pump. not sure but either way it's probbaly a much easier job with the radiator out of the way.

gmask · #5 07-02-2003, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by murray720
it's a labor of love...

i think i used a box end to get the propeller fan off but now that i think about it i may have had to remove the radiator anyway to allow for the clearence to completely extract the water pump. not sure but either way it's probbaly a much easier job with the radiator out of the way.

On my 250.. you do not need to remove the radiator.. once you have removed the fan there is plenty of room to work in. Getting the fan off is another story. You need to use a box end so that you don't strip the nuts but on the 250 there is very little sapc eto use a box wrench so I had to grind down the thichkness of the box end so that I could turn it.. worked great!

You shouldn't need sealant in addition to the gasket for the pump.

You shoudl also hose down all the bolts to be removed the night before with penetrant.. it will make removign them much easier and lower the chances of shearing off or stripping the heads on the nuts. Both of which are things you do not want to happen!

joshhol · #6 07-02-2003, 04:18 PM

Thanks Gmask,
I might just go ahead and remove the rad since it is so easy. 6 bolts and two hoses, done.
I will soak the bolts overnight.

gmask · #7 07-02-2003, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by joshhol
Thanks Gmask,
I might just go ahead and remove the rad since it is so easy. 6 bolts and two hoses, done.
I will soak the bolts overnight.

Cool.. on the 250 you have to deal with the oil cooller hoses and besides being messy it's just an extra bit of effort but not totally unneccessary.

You might as well clean the engine compartment some while you have it out.. get some of the caked up grease and dirt from around the engine. It's also amazing what an assortment of bolts and other junk you will find while doing so.

joshhol · #8 07-02-2003, 05:16 PM

While I had the brake and clutch master cylinders out, I gunned a bunch of POR 15 in that whole area where the brake fluid had eaten the paint away and where rust was forming.
I hope it will hold up against brake fluid in the future, we'll see.

Only thing I'd do differently is order gray POR to match the paint rather than black but with all the parts reinstalled, you wont see it much.