Restarting mothballed 111

[pkzip]

Well, after over 15 months of inadvertant "storage," I'm finally ready to drive my car again. 15 months ago, I drained the radiator so that I could remove the heater box and cores so that they could be recored. I have since had this done and restored the heater box with a coat of POR-15. However, I decided not to reinstall the heater box until I get enough money to get the dash wood redone at Heritage (more room to work under the dash and reinstall the wood without the box in the way).

Nevertheless, I have since devised and installed a heater hose work around so that I can now refill the radiator without the box installed and drive the car. I have already been advised that:

1. The gas is stale so that I have to siphon out the old gas and replace with new.

2. Replace the fuel filter.

3. Put a few ounces of motor oil in each cylinder via the spark plug inserts and let sit for a few days.

But a few questions:

1. Does this sound like the correct procedure? How/where do I dispose the state gas?

2. Can I get the fuel filter at a McParts or is this an MBZ item?

3. I would like to flush and reverse flush the raiotor and engine - where is the engine block drain located on a 130 engine and do I need to open it?

4. How exactly do you "reverse flush" when your car is in the family driveway?

5. Is there a more economical source for the citric acid flush and degreaser or should I just use the MBZ stuff?

6. I plan on replacing the thermostat while I'm at it. Again is this a McParts or MBZ item? Anything else (like how not to mess up the threads and do they require a torque wrench?) that I should be aware of?

7. I also plan on replacing the anti-freeze with MBZ's orange anti-freeze. What is the proportion of anti-freeze to (tap?) water for a car based in Southern California?

Thanks!

Peter Kaufman

[300SDog]

Dont neglect the electrical system.... electric parts cleaner is wonderful stuff, my favorite solvent that leaves no residue - can be sprayed on components prone to oxidation, stuff like fuse box, distributor innards, alternator bushings, starter connections and any other elctrical stuff that might corrode....... another easy thing to do - plugging and unplugging electrical connections (like all yer dashboard switches) and giving em shot of the same stuff.

Regarding oiling combustion chambers..... Marvel Mystery Oil is high detergent stuff that might even help decarbon cylinder heads if you let it soak long enough, squirting it through spk plg holes...... reason for oiling the chambers on long dormant engines is to loosen piston rings that are prone to rust from condensation. Expect some smoke when you start the car, then I'd just let it idle for 20 minutes to clear all fuel lines before test drive.

There used to be gigantic fuel drain plug on early Heckflosse for draining the tank..... probably the same on your cabrio. Old fuel stored in open 5 gallon bucket will evaporate in very short time.

Driveway flushing of radiator and cooling system..... why bother? If it was me I'd pull the radiator and have it boiled professionally. Othewise, Valvoline Zerez coolant products replicate MB specs for lubing the water pump, etc.

Hell, 15 months is nothing...... i once freed hopelessly seized engine on 220Sb with more than 100k miles that hadnt been registered for 7 yrs and stored outside. Freed the car by first marinating engine bores with beaucoup oil, doing multiple oil changes with penetrating oil fed into spark plug holes..... left the drain plug off the sump to monitor progress of oil seeping between pistons and bores..... at first just a trickle of liquid wrench came through, finally the amount of oil draining out almost matched the amount I'd put into the bores. Did an authenitic 15-40 oil change to flush liquid wrench from the sump, charged the battery, added some high octane fuel, headed for the nearest hill.

Towed the car to top of hill with a rope, practically emptied an entire can of ether into the Zeniths and jump started the bastard at 20-30 mph in 3rd gear, thought I'd broken the clutch - but engine broke loose, coughed and spat, then amazingly started with roar of smoke out the back..... drove it hard for 2 continuous yrs at college, then sold it on account of excessive oil consumption that was costing me money, but the damned thing always starting on first click and ran terrific.

Have had amazing luck pulling these cars out of fields and getting em back on the road - the more they are driven, the better they drive.

[joshhol]

Regarding McParts,
I don't think you can get McAnything for a 40yr old car from the chain store other than fluids etc.
Just use this site or go to an indie or the dealer. I like to "give back" to this place for all the help I have gotten from it.

I'm not sure where the block drain is on the M130. I have an M180 and I think the blocks have similar configuration. It might be drivers side lower rear on the side of the block. It should be fairly obvious as a drain cock looking object or just a large bolt that sticks out of the side of the block. But get a second opinion if your not sure.

Prestone makes radiator flushing agents and use distilled water if you want the A+ set up.

[Mark DiSilvestro]

Call around to different parts sources in your area. You'd be suprised at what's availible for a 40 year old W111. My local Pep-Boys stocks oil filters for my '60 220S. Napa, Car-Quest and my local import parts store either stock or can order other parts, including filters and thermostats. I recently ordered a pair of front grease seals from Car-Quest for under $10. MB dealer wanted almost $40.

Happy Motoring, Mark

[pkzip]

For the record, the car is ONLY 33 years old!

[pkzip]

Is there any way for me to tell if the gas is stale? I siphoned some out of the tank - it has a honey golden color and no particulates (at least not from where I took it from the tank).

here's what my uncle did when he started my car after 7 years of storage. He simply got a jery can of new petrol, added it to what ever was in there, added a liter or 2 of oil, and started it up. Fired first time and worked great. The oil didn't get changed until 3 months after my possesion.

For 15months I wouldn't be worring too much. Just make sure all fluids and topped up, and crank the engine over.

[pkzip]

Under the category of how a solution to one problem begats another I filled the engine cylinders with oil to free the piston rings. That is, I put an amount equal to one quart of oil across all six cylinders (1 quart over 6 cylinders not 1 quart in each cylinder). I woke up that night with the realization that I could not start the engine with oil that oil in there and yet there was no way to drain it (other than seepage past the rings). I chedcked with Stu and with others on the R/E list who assured me that cranking the car with out the plugs would take care of the oil in that it would no longer be in the spark plug chambers - rather it would now be all over the engine and blown out the exhaust. To minimize the mess, I was told to place rags under and on the plug holes and under the exaust pipe. I prepping to deal with this mess this weekend.......