Help with York a/c

[Glenn]

Hello folks, do any of you know much about the York a/c compressors? I believe I have an aftermarket installation a/c unit on my '67 250S and when I bought the car last year, the adjustment pully was totally missing, except for the inner race. Problems where that the compressor bracket was not installed correctly and the unit worked loose, plus the pullys where not in alignment with the other engine pullys. I finally got this all ironed out and now am blowing cool but not really cool air. I unscrewed the compressor filling plug and before I got it off, I heard hissing from around its threads. So, I immediately closed it, assuming that I had at least some freon in the system. But, with R12 being so hard to find, I am looking to convert over to R-134A. I've done this in the past on several GM vehicles with good success, but I don't really understand the York unit. The low pressure side is I believe the one marked with an "S" and is as I would expect the larger of the 2 hoses. Here's my question, where do I install the new R-134A fittings? On the top of the compressor are removable caps which when removed reveal a square ended stem. Opposite this is a brass cap which I have not yet removed. How does this work? Is the filling valve located under this brass cap? And are the square ended stems shut-off valves?
Perhaps I'd be better off buying a rebuilt compressor already setup for R-134A(approx. 100.00) and install my clutch to it. Any idea how hard it is to remove the clutch assembly on a York unit? I'd of course replace the dryer too. Any suggestions or comments any of you can give me will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Glenn

[ctaylor738]

The PO of my 280C converted to R134 and it works quite well. I am on vacation until Thursday so cannot send a picture. But I recall the bill from the conversion, and it included replacing the flex part of the hoses (keeping the orginal fittings), new drier bottle, and Schraeder valve.

I can send a picture when I get home.

The advice on R12 seems to be to keep it if you have a working system, so you might wanna try a charge.

[Glenn]

Chuck, thanks for the fast reply......I agree with the general rule of staying with R12, but I'd hate to pay to have it charged only to find it leaking back out into the atmosphere.....I am still thinking on the R134A conversion. Is it really so important to replace the hoses and the valve? I've seen/read about o-ring/hose conditioners that you install prior to R134A charge that's supposed to take care of this. Do you know if this is just a gimick? Thanks, Glenn

[ctaylor738]

Here is what I believe to be true about R134 conversions.

- You need to completely drain and flush the compressor and system and use ester oil

- You need to change the Schraeder valve and possibly some of the sensors so the system will run at a higher pressure

- You may need to replace the hoses because the R134 molecules are smaller and can leak through the R12 hoses

- You need to replace the seals with the green ones for R134

If you are simply low on R12, why not have someone put eough in to get the system working and run a leak test either with a sniffer or with dye? You may be end up with a nice tight R12 system for a lot less money.

I spent $2300 converting my 300E, but that included a new compressor - big mistake. That was in 2000 when everyone thought R!2 would be gone in two years BUT R12 prices have come down a lot since then and the supply outlook seems to be pretty good.

There are post on both sides of this issue on the Tech Support forum.

[Glenn]

Well Chuck, that certainly gives me lots of "food for thought"....maybe I should give the old system at least a chance at being workable.....thanks for the help, Glenn