transmissions, modulators and thanks

A couple of months ago I did some posts on problems with a 79' 280CE that was mechanically breaking something new almost weekly. After 24 years, bunches of original stuff all decided to die at once. It now has converted A/C, new exhaust, a new radiator, most all new front suspension parts, a new shifter box, shift lever bushings, vac modulator, numerous other small stuff and as of last night (after waiting 6 weeks for assistance), a replaced tranny. I wanted to thank all of you for advice and assistance AND point to a few issues I discovered and which I've not seen in other posts.

1. If you dig around with "search", you will rightly come to the conclusion that the vacuum modulator adjustment affects the harshness of shifts. Tweaking with the inner adjusting key can minimize or adjust harsh shifts, flaring and minor slipping issues. Further, that when removing the cap, if ATF is discovered, the modulator must be replaced. Well, not necessarily. I discovered that ATF can dry out and cause the pin inside the modulator to freeze up and prevent it from increasing or decreasing vac pressure. Freeing the pin can bring the modulator back to life. Since finding these older models of modulators will be increasingly difficult, this fix is of interest.

2. All the posts I found about adjusting the shift rpm points on the replacement tranny refer to a cable that needs adjusting...usually called the Bowden cable. Well, at least this vintage of the 280 doesn't have such a cable so don't be confused. What it has is an adjustable rod that goes across the top of the engine and controls the kickdown. This rod in turn ball joint links to a lever, on the other end of which is another ball joint and adjustable rod going to the tranny. The rod to the tranny cannot change it's adjustment without removing it from the ball connection, so the new tranny should shift at the right points without any tweaking. BUT, the upper rod has a nut and bolt adjustment that can work itself loose. In my case the result was that the rod slid open to maximum travel and stuck at that length. This put slop in the lever, and so slop in the rod going to the tranny. The result was under moderate acceleration, the 2-3 shift didn't happen till almost 50mph, unless you feathered off the gas pedal, and I don't know when the 3-4 shift would happen, but if I stayed on the gas, the car was close to 70mph still in third, and took a slight back off of the gas to shift into 4th. I could see wear marks indicating the correct length of the top rod, and sliding it back to that point and tightening the holding nut brought the shift pattern right back to where it should be. Car shifts great now.

3. There are two different transmission filters for this vintage car. My 722.112 tranny took the one that doesn't come in a kit with the pan gasket. Take care when ordering that you get the correct one.

And here's an interesting side benefit of all this. Before the tranny failed, the car would flood easily when hot and be hard to start. Diagnosis was leaky injectors. After sitting for 6 weeks waiting for the tranny with concentrated injector cleaner in the lines, it now starts instantly hot or cold.

Changing subject, need a new sunroof cable? The one for the coupe is shorter than the one for the 123 sedan. Anybody need a new sedan cable? I now have one. And if your old cable has been binding up and sticking, take a hard look at the gear drive attached to the roof motor as mine now slips under load. It will take both a cable and gear drive to get it working. The motor can be removed, but the gear drive cannot without taking the cable out through the roof first.

Rick