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  #1  
Old 09-30-2003, 12:23 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Phoenix
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Water Pump 1970 250C

I'm replacing the water pump on my 250C due to the engine over heating and I have a question before I order the pump. I see that the pump is a two-part pump, one part being the Impeller, its shaft and seals and the other part being the housing of the pump.

My question is will I need to replace the housing? Are there any surface parts within the housing that could cause the pump not to work properly? I see that the housing is not a part that I can order online, if needed it must be a special order.

The reason I feel it's the pump is because I have done everything I could think of, or have read within the forum, to correct the over heating. Which includes the timing, fuel mixture, rad flush, fan clutch, and thermostat replacement.

I removed the thermostat housing and started the engine and Iím getting very little water flow.

Any other ideas out there before I take the next step?

Thanks.....
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  #2  
Old 09-30-2003, 12:59 AM
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Water Pump Replacement

One other thing that I didn't say in my post is heater in the car is not heating either, both valves are open but no water movement through the heater core.
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  #3  
Old 09-30-2003, 07:36 PM
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Location: Falls Church, VA
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Usually the pumps leak rather than stop working - all they have inside is an impeller, but they are cheap enough that you might as well replace it to be sure. In any case, you do not need to change the housing unless there is a corrosion problem.
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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe

Last edited by ctaylor738; 10-01-2003 at 07:04 AM.
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  #4  
Old 09-30-2003, 11:57 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Phoenix
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1970 250C Water Pump

To your point, I did take the pump apart today and as you stated I couldn't see anything wrong with the Pump so I put it back together. While I had the pump apart I also thought I'd recheck the thermostat one more time and I did discover a problem. The thermostat was opening at the right temp but not fully. So what was happening was the bypass was only partly closed resulting in most of the water bypassing the rad.

After replacing the thermostat I took it out for a spin. I live in Phoenix and it was 107 degrees out. I ran it with the A/C on for 10 miles in stop and go traffic and success, it never got over 180 degrees.... it's fixed.

Thanks for your feedback
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  #5  
Old 10-01-2003, 07:16 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Falls Church, VA
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One of the things you can do to help the heater is to hook up a garden hose to the heater core with one of those "hose mender" kits and see if you can flush it out. You need to unhook the outlet hose so the water can go someplace.

I would suggest trying each side separately. There is a metal tube that runs horizontally across the firewall that is prone to corrode and clog.
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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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  #6  
Old 10-02-2003, 12:36 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2003
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Water Pump

Thanks Chuck for the post and the idea of using the garden hose. I'll give it a try over the weekend..... I'm taking a couple of days off on any work involving cars.

Thanks again for your help.
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