"New" 6.3 in the house; pics later - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

fema · #1 10-10-2003, 07:17 PM

It's been a while(!), but I've been wanting to get back with everyone:

Took possession of a nice 6.3 in June, and now with winter setting in I'll have more time to spend with her, as well looking for your continued support. While some of you may remember I was looking for a 4.5, when I found this 6.3 which had been serviced in Denver by Stu Ritter (technical writer for THE STAR magazine), it was hard to pass up. So, I did my research, remembered what I had learned on this forum and jumped in, deciding it was worth the risks.

The good: less than 100K mi, serviced regularly, repainted (original white) by owner (a top Denver body shop owner) - straight and good chrome all around, new leather front and rear (bottom) seats, like new wood, neat new Toyo tires, Koni shocks, good air bellows. Overall, a nice driver.

The bad: minor cosmetics - interior carpet, install wood trim on 3 doors, faded & cracking top of rear seat (Navy, by the way), door edge guard rubber on passenger side ripped or missing in some spots, clock not working, a window switch not working, OLD CAR smell!

Need help on: driver side rear low new), rear axle rubber boot leaks, oil pan leaks (this I'm confident on fixing myself), rear axle rough noise in reverse - when bushings are greased it stops - mechanic says these will need to be replaced, idle intermittantly rough - occassional stall at a stop.

I read last week on Star Motors web site, the low rear end on one side means a front air valve problem (I thought it would be the rear valve?). Since I consider this now to be my priority problem, any assistance to get me started would be appreciated, and we'll stay in touch.

Pictures to follow shortly. Thanks.

psfred · #2 10-10-2003, 08:54 PM

Old car smell is water on the floor pan, get the window gaskets replaced before it rains again....

Dead leather on the rear seat means replacement covers, I suspect. You can try Leatherique, but I'd bet there isn't anything to save by now, just like my 280. Crack repair isn't going to do diddly for rotten leather, it just tears someplace else....

I am making new covers for mine -- less original, but better seating, I think. Analine dyed Italian uphosterly leather, I think it will last better and show wear less, since it's dyed through not just color coated like the MB leather.

Fun car!

Peter

fema · #3 10-13-2003, 06:37 PM

Thanks for the tip on upholstery - FYI; just read an article in Hemmings last night (I believe the May or June issue) describing how to refresh and re-dye leather in decent shape on your own. From this info, it certainly seems do-able. Let me know if you want the exact issue in case I'm off here.

On the smell, I never thought of that - but the quarter windows do leak when sprayed head on, so that would make sense.

Anyone else on the mechanical issues? I could use whatever help you can offer - thanks.

Dan Smith · #4 10-21-2003, 09:49 PM

You need two 10 m end wrenches. Block the body at the jack points for safety. If the drivers rear is low then that means the front drivers is low or the front passengers side is to high. Use a tape to measure. Be precise. This is so simple to adjust it's funny. If I can do it antone can. The rear only has one valve so it should end up equal once the two fronts are adjusted. Keep an eye on the wheel camber as you move it around.

fema · #5 10-22-2003, 11:07 AM

Hey Dan - could you be a little more specific on the adjustments? This is new to me so I need some detail if you can. As I was conversing with some other owners, it was suggested as you did, that the entire side should be measured, and indeed it appears the front on that side is down about the same, 1 cm. Also, you mean 10 mm end wrenches, right?

It's good news to hear it may not be a leak of air in the suspension, if that's what you are implying. Thought I'll be sure to check that as well.

Dan Smith · #6 10-22-2003, 07:52 PM

Yes 10 mm, two of them. You loosen the locking nut and then turn the entire rod. It is threaded both left and right at oppisite ends. Do this very slowly, LISTEN for the sound of air, FEEL WHICH WAY THE BODY IS GOING, either up or down. Be very careful, watch the upper and lower connecting devices, they will come off if your rod is corroded. If not corroded you can turn it with your fingers. Then once this is determined make aprox three turns. Then measure, be exact; concrete to fender lip. DO THIS ON A LEVEL GARAGE FLOOR. Remember, use safety devices such as a large wood block at all four jack points. This is very important and it will prevent the body from trapping you or a potential death. This is so easy, its really common sense once you understand the device.
On that "NOISE" when in reverse and to be more precice, when you use the brake while in reverse. You can have this repaired or not. It really is not a safety issue, it's simply annoying. The previou remarks are correct.
That leak in the oil pan. Is it cracked? I've never observed such a leak. Could the oil simply be coming from a much more common source, the valve cover gasgets? Do your headers smoke when first warmed up? I suggest you visit 6.3 specific sites , under M-100, look around , there are three good sites.