More Q's on the blower fan AND headlights - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

peterl · #1 11-15-2003, 04:28 PM

So, can a 30 year old electric motor just die?

The fan spins freely--as freely as the new blower I just got. I cleaned the motor up with contact cleaner, hit it with a little WD40, and nothing.

I tried to check if it had current but I could not maneuver in the small space. I'll have to get my brother to help me. If it is not getting current, where is the most likely place that the circuit might be broken, except the fuses? The switch?

Now, the headlights. I checked the driver side high-beam, which was not working. Turns out it wasn't plugged in. I replugged it, and all was well. 10 minutes later when I started the car, they lights went screwy. With the lows on or off, if I use the passing lights, only the drivers side lights up. The passenger side low stays on but the high does not light. With the lights on, if I turn on the high beams, both bulbs on the drivers side go out, but both on the passenger side work. What gives?

nathanyork · #2 11-15-2003, 11:40 PM

mine is exactly the same. I removed the air intake in front of the windshield, the mesh was still in place. I got to the blower, no leaves to be seen. The blower spins completely freely like nothing is wrong. I took off the grill on the top of the dash, cleaned the blower switch with contact cleaner, and even removed the plug off the back of the switch and put it back on. no difference. I then removed, cleaned and replaced the #6 fuse on the fuse block under the dash. Still nothing. logic to me says electric problem, not bad motor, but am I barking up the wrong tree?? The cable on the lever is adjusted right and the switch seems to work. I am going to dig out my test light tomorrow and see if I am getting current to the switch and beyond. Any other advice???? I started to remove things to get a look at the box, and it does look hard to remove everything. by the way, what is the box that sits on top of the tunnel right behind the trim panel and below the A/C? Looks like part of the radio???

peterl · #3 11-16-2003, 08:54 AM

That box connected to the stereo is an amp--at least it is on mine. I have a Becker Mexico (I think) stereo. I recal that it is a low power--about 5 watts, but high quality amp.

Speaking of, does anyone know where to get the plugs to connect the speaker wire to the amp?

psfred · #4 11-16-2003, 11:49 PM

Plugs for the speaker wires will be a problem, I've never seen that connector in the US except on older MBs. You may need to construct something from a similar sized wire or spade lug of some sort, or raid the junkyard.

Becker Mexico is a very good radio -- may need to be retuned and reconditioned by this time, but can usually be restored to new condition (and sound).

Brushes are probably gone in the blower. They are carbon "sticks" and wear, so eventually fail to contact the commutator, so no blower. Sadly, the blower has to come out to replace them. Easier on the W108 than on the W114/5, I've been told, but a true PITA either way. If you have issues with the heater core (like mine, almost completely plugged with scale), replace at the same time, you don't want to do this job twice. Reverse is true as well -- if you need to take the heater core out, replace the blower!

Peter

nathanyork · #5 11-17-2003, 10:26 AM

Thats what I figured. I wedged my test light into the air intake chamber and sure enough, the blower is getting power. I figured it would be the brushes after that.

As to the "hack" are we talking about actually cutting metal on the inside of the engine bay, cutting metal in the air intake chamber, or simply cutting the plastic case where the blower is under the dash. The third seems easier to me, however the steering column and left side air duct is in the way. Can the air duct be removed without taking the whole heater box out?