How do you remove timing chain on 4.5?

This is a 280SEL 4.5L. Is this just one chain, or is there a seperate chain for each side? What is the easiest way to remove this? We are still haveing problems witht the exhaust mainfold on the left side (driver's side). Any pointers?
Thanks
Tim

[Tomguy]

One (very long) chain (about 6' in length). You shouldn't have to remove it to remove the heads! Tie it to the cam gear sprocket to avoid timing issues and then remove the tensioner and/or rails. Once that's done, you can take the gears off the cams and take the heads off (you must either do it that way or remove the whole front of the engine to expose the timing chain cover if you want to do it the "hard" way!).

[psfred]

Tim:

Chain rails are held in by bolt pins, driven in, hold by friction. Get some 6mm bolts, I believe 1.5mm pitch thread, and use some washers and sockets to draw them out by using the thread in the outer end. You can try a slide hammer, too, but they usually are stuck too tight.

Chain is endless, wire to sprokets. You will need to hold the sproket up when you break the head loose and slide some wire or brazing rod, etc. through the chain underneath the head to keep the chain tight. Lift the head off over the sproket. Leave it wired or wire tied until you put the head back on.

Put an extension through the sproket to loosen the sproket bolt.

Leave the chain in and tight if you can, makes like somewhat easier going back in.

The distribultor isn't keyed, only a single 6mm (or is it 5mm?) screw holds it down, you must use a long allen (T-handle is best) or remove the distributor cap to use a standard one. Set engine on TDC #1, rotor should point to the notch in the side of the dizzy. Make sure it goes back in the same spot going back in.

Peter

[Tomguy]

I suppose my dist screw has been replaced by someone else in the past - it's either an 8mm or 5/16" bolt instead and makes it a TON easier. I actually think I saw why too - I believe I can see the original bolt stuck in that teeny area behind the harmonic balancer and the engine. AKA "No man's land" hehe I've thought about pulling it out by can't find my telescopic magnet.. I've thought of epoxying a neodynium magnet to a regular radio antenna...

[JoeyTheB]

Timing Chain:
-----------------
Recently did mine, used following URL for reference.

http://www.pindelski.com/
Too bad - the site is now charging a $30 access fee,
I would say it's worth it.
You get tons of pictures and instructions.
It was definately a helpful resource.

Hardest Part - removing the old water pump bolts !

Best advice -

Start the process of removing old chain with motor at tdc and all timing marks aligned. That way when you finish feeding the new chain in, you will know if you missed a tooh.

While your'e in there:
Remove radiator - take the opportunity to have it flushed by a radiator shop. Good time to replace the water pump/thermo
with the fan off.

Exhaust Manifolds Gaskets:
---------------------------------
Just did mine - I have a spare can of Eastwood Ex manifold paint
I'll sell you if you want.

Hints:
remove/drop the exhaust pipes.
You may not really have to, but it helps.

Driver's Side
The only nut you must get from below is the lower nut
on drivers' side nearest fire wall.
Get a 12mm box end, gloves and an old long sleve shirt -
you basically get your arm up along side the steering box
(which I'm sure is covered with gunk).

Pass Side
lower bolt near firewall is a problem if stripped out.
My trick was to remove all bolts (and studs) except last one,
Remove front 1/2 manifold, then rotate the back manifold
counter -clockwise - you will be able to see the bolt and get to it.

While Your'e in there:
Motor mounts are VERY easy to access with exhuast manifolds off.
Tranny Mount/Flex Disc/Support Bushing easy to get to with
exhaust pipes dropped.

PS - Those plastic rhino ramps are great for getting the car to a level where your back isn't killing you after five minutes.

njoy....

[wbain5280]

Originally posted by Tomguy
I suppose my dist screw has been replaced by someone else in the past - it's either an 8mm or 5/16" bolt instead and makes it a TON easier

Use ONLY metric screws, nuts and bolts on these cars.

[Tomguy]

Warren: If it makes it easier with a hex head than an allen, I don't care if it's US or metric measure! It's easier than using a ridiculous hex drive!

[psfred]

A long t-handle hex driver works perfectly, and will even hold the screw on the bottom. Fits right down past the dizzy.

Peter