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#1
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Pertronix Install Questions
I have a couple of questions about installing the Pertronix Ignitor and Flamethrower coil.
1. The wires from the ignitor do they go directly to the coil. Red + end and Black - end. of the flamethrower 2. How about the other wires connected to the current coil, do I have to reconnect them to the new coil. Thanks in advance for the help. J |
#2
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1. Red wire goes to the positive side of the coil, black to negative.
2. Yup. This link helped me with my install... http://www.mbzponton.org/valueadded/maintenance/ignitionpert/ignitionpert.htm |
#3
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You also need to bypass the ballast resistors and bypass the electonic box, if fitted.
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Litton '90 420 SEL (sold) '72 280 SEL 4.5 '98 ML320 (for sale) '86 560SL '05 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd (offroad in style) '87 Chevy Blazer (AZ Pin Strips) |
#4
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Where is ballast resistor and electronic box located at?
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bump with the same question. What do I disconnect / reconnect?
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Adam Lumsden (83) 300D Vice-President of the MBCA International Stars Section |
#6
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Connect the wires from the Pertronix directly to the coil, and remove all other wires except the big HT lead to the distributor, the positive 12v supply lead, and the ground lead to the chassis. When you're done, you should have three wires from the coil to the distributor: two small-gauge leads from the Pertronix to the small terminals, and one HT lead from the center of the dist cap to the top of the coil.
I had to extend the leads on my Pertronix unit to reach all the way over to the coil. I used high-temp rated 16-gauge zip cord -- probably overkill. The ballast resistors and transistor box are down on the inside of the front wall. If there are loose wires connected to them when you're done, you can just clip them. |
#7
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I believe the answer to his question depends on the model car he is working on. He may be working on a model which does not have electronic MB ignition so we may be confusing him.
The 280SEL 4.5 (M117) when I did it did have the MB electronics and there are actually dual 12V feeds to the MB system you need to contend with. One goes through a ballast resistor to the MB module and is the "normally on" one when the key is in either "Run" or Start" position and one bypasses the ballast and only energizes the system when the starter is cranking for maximum spark during cranking. I simply cut that second wire and terminated it and ran the "normally on" wire up to the + terminal on the coil. If you are working on a model which does not have the MB electronic module then you just need to make sure that the wire going to the + terminal on the coil feeds the same voltage as the battery puts out, if you measure less than battery voltage at that terminal then it is going through a ballast resistor and that should be removed. When you are done the coil will have 12+V (switched from the key) and the red wire from the pertronix module going to the (+) terminal, the black wire from the pertronix module going to the (-) terminal on the coil (and, of course the center HT wire to the distributor cap) and that's it. You do NOT ground the coil, it gets grounded through the pertronix module from the distributor.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz Last edited by nhdoc; 12-07-2005 at 07:48 PM. |
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