In tune? Type 219

[garetlaw]

219 6cyl with Solex 2bl (#3738629)


It failed aircare* so I'm trying to tune things up a bit. As it stands the idle (engine warm/ no choke) flows back and forth in waves between 650 - 1000 rpm. The dwell on the meter reads 41.

The points, condenser, rotor and plug wires are new. The carb was rebuilt within the last 3 months.
On the carb: just above the vacuum line to the distributor there is an opening that has not been plugged - There is also a three holed tab on the base of the carb - all 3 holes unplugged.

* both hydrocarbon tests:
max driving : 556
my reading: 690

max idle: 1000
my idle: 1876

any advice?
thanks - Richard

(I posted a picture - don't know if it worked)


[/img]http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/images/carb.jpg[/img]

[wbain5280]

If your idle speed is fluctuating, you have a vacuum leak. Fix that first. It could be the intake manifold gasket or the carb gaskets. Check the hoses and replace them, maybe all.

Emission check on a '59? Aren't there exceptions for antiques?

[wbain5280]

From my old Glenns Tune up book,

Type 219

Plugs Champion N5
gap .028 - .032 in

points .012 - .016 in
dwell 38 deg.

ignition timing Initial 1 ATDC
Final 26 @ 3000 rpm (Vacuum line disconnected)
and sealed.

compression 142 - 156

idle speed 750 - 800

valve clearance I=.005C E=.008C (cold)

I hope this helps.

[j9fd3s]

if its lean (ie vacuum leak) then hc will be high like that, due to misfires. it also might eplain the idle surge.

mike
california

[garetlaw]

thanks - it sounds like it is a vacuum leak. (although I don't think it's been lean - it's been sucking gas)

wbain5280 - thanks for digging those #'s up - not all of that is in the manual. My compression 100 in all cylinders - what should be the next order of business on my repair list - fix/reseat valves -- new rings...?

Bigger Problem:
I was driving last night and the clutch gave out (petal would not engage the clutch). Unfortunately the PO lowered it so I could not get underneath. I called a tow truck and when he lifted it I got under there and saw that a bracket had snapped off (part #20 pg17 in 219 catalog).

I was under it just now (with 2 jacks an tires piled under for safety) and with braided wire and vice grips temporarily fastened it back on. I can't get it into reverse but the forward gears work. I'll limp it to a buddy's tomorrow to get it back on.


-good image of it here in image #'s 5 and 6.
http://www.mbzponton.org/valueadded/maintenance/clutch/clutch_replace2.htm

http://www.crankmagazine.com/merc.html

-anyone know how vital those shims are (in case we have to weld it)?

thanks - I've only owned this car for 4 days too!

Richard

[wbain5280]

Originally posted by garetlaw

wbain5280 - thanks for digging those #'s up - not all of that is in the manual. My compression 100 in all cylinders - what should be the next order of business on my repair list - fix/reseat valves -- new rings...?


thanks - I've only owned this car for 4 days too!

Richard

Perform, or have performed, a leakdown test. That will tell where the problem is, valves or rings, and then you can decide to take action. One thing you might think about is that newer engines will fit the car. You can put in a mid 60's 220S or 230S engine, a later 60's 250 or 250S or 280S engine as well. It might be cheaper than overhauling the 219 engine.

You'll get more power and torque as well.

Just a thought.

[Douglas Broome]

Several comments:

I have found far too many errors in the Glenn book to rely on it as a data and adjustment resource. I use it only to confirm information I receive from other sources. That includes all tune-up data.

The clutch linkage bracket is essential. Also, there are shims (no. 23 on Table 17) behind it that should not be lost. (No. 22 is a type of washer that goes beneath the nut.) The number of shims was determined individually on each car, depending on trial and error originally, to compensate for minor differences elsewhere in the mechanical linkage. I would move heaven and earth not to weld no. 20 to the bell housing. You should be able to find these parts either new from Mercedes Classic Center or used from the usual suspects. Contact me separately if you wish referal to possible used part sources.

When the car is idling, I suggest squirting some WD-40 slowly around the manifold. If the car's RPMs increase, you have found a vacuum leak. If nothing there, spray around the base of the carb.

Good luck.

[garetlaw]

thanks Douglas

- My buddy ended up fabricating a bracket out of a thicker metal and we took out a shim. However I'm noticing now that when I put it in gear and release the clutch there is a bit of sideways clutch petal shake as its engaging. How precise is this length (having taken a shim out) and can it be overcome by clutch adjustment?



For the vacuum leak I'm just going to take the car in (and get it aircared).

I bought a 195? 220 today for parts. It's got a ragtop and lots of bits and pieces. The bottom is shot with rust but up top is solid with all the trim and the original radio. My plan is to put the sunroof section and other parts onto the 219. Anyone have any info on replacing the 219 dash with the 220's dash?

I'll likely strip the 220 down and junk it when I'm done. Storage space is limited for me but I'd like to keep extra windows and some engine parts - is there any particular parts that I may wish I would have kept sometime in the future?

When I'm done I can make a parts list if anyone needs anything - I live in Vancouver BC.

thanks,
Richard

[Mark DiSilvestro]

Rear doors on the 220 are longer than those on the 219 so some of those parts, including the wood window surrounds, wont interchange.
220 dash-top wood fits the horizontal 220 speedometer, not the round 219 unit. Other wood trim may interchange OK. Swapping the sunroof could become a major headache. The passenger cabin, including the roof, is about 3 inches shorter on the 219. Measure for differences in the roof's curve as well as the length before you start cutting sheet metal!

Happy Motoring, Mark

[Douglas Broome]

Did Richard resolve the clutch linkage problem?

What happened with the vacuum leak and tune-up data?

[garetlaw]

I just got my car back today.

As it turned out the problem was that the jets were drilled to big for the 2bl carb. It cost $250 to fix - but it'll go through a lot less gas. They also took it through aircare and passed it (it had failed both HC tests).

I got my parts car (195? - 220s) towed to a friends driveway. This weekend I'm going to asses the condition of the engine and frame -I'll take pics as well. I bought it for $300CND, the guy assured me the frame was rotted out but a quick look showed most of the rust in the bottom outer channels. It actually looks really good - the sunroof has no leaks and there is no rust on any of the body pannels. It had been stored since 1987 - someone took care as there were rags stuffed into the carbs. It's cream with a (slightly mouldy) blue interior.

Mark: thanks for the heads up on the size difference - it looks like it will fit however, I'll have to account for the difference in roof curvature (if the 220's frame is salvagable I may just put everything into it).

Douglas: I only have the owners manual to go on for tune up data ("Type 219 Owner's Manual")

-------it states:

VALVES- intake: 0.12mm (0.005") exaust:0.20mm (0.008")
PLUG GAP (normal) - 0.7mm +0.1 (0.027" +0.004)
PLUG GAP (radio interfearences) - 0.9mm +0.1 (0.035" +0.004)
TIMING - "aprox 1 deg. after UDC"

there is nothing in the book about points, dwell or idle. Is there another source (other than the Glenn) to crossreference?

thanks. Richard

[Douglas Broome]

There are other sources: the service manual and the Olyslager Motor Manual 28. Contact me separately for forther info.

How do you fix a jet that has been drilled too large? Do you have the info as to the specific jets required for your carb? FYI, new Solex jets are very hard to find as they are no longer in production. There are sources for used ones.

[wbain5280]

I'll dig up my fintail MB service manual. The 220S's should be the same.