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  #1  
Old 05-04-2004, 08:59 PM
joegolden's Avatar
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Dalton, Georgia
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1962 220?

Hello folks, I have an oportunity to buy a clean southern 220 from friend of mine. It has maintenance records going back almost thirty years. I ran across timing chain replacements, head job, rechromed chrome, all new interior, etc, etc. It is really a looker! I do not have a pic but I am probably gonna pic it up next weekend.

My questions are I do not know much about these. I have not had one quite that old before. What are some things to look for when checking the car over?? My friend said he will take $1000 for it. The car needs some carb work as well as a few other small things. What kind of carbs are on these old cars?? It has dual carbs and they look old. The car runs good but has NO power he claims. It kinda sputters and bucks. Also it is a 4spd on the column and it disconnects itself under the hood if it is shifted a few times. Anyway, any advice you could type my way I would appreciate it. Thanks.

later

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  #2  
Old 05-04-2004, 09:47 PM
300SDog's Avatar
gimme a low-tech 240D
 
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If memory serves me correctly, the 220 has crummy dual Solex carbs. Shift mechanism attaches to ball joint pins on other side of the firewall with nylon bushings that wear out. Hell, it might be an easy fix with bailing wire.

4 spd 6 cyl engines are usually lugged and shifted too early, way below peak rpm. Observe the shift marks on the speedometer. This could be part of the sluggishness...... but its not a fast car, lacking accelerator pumps of Zenith carb equipped 220S models. Poor valve adjustment can also rob power.

Check the brakes too because callipres/pistons can be expensive. And look for excessive play in front kingpin suspension that has millions of grease gun fittings which get neglected. Clutch condition can be known by trying an uphill standing start.

Service records mean alot. Cyl head work says its got more than 120k miles and the head should now be 'mated' to the block for another 100,000 miles or more.

Think on it as a soft old vehicle with outrageous features. Fun to own and drive, if you are not in a hurry. And when it hits warp drive at about 75 - 80mph, it will ride straight as an arrow in flight.

White Ivory steering wheel?? Barber pole speedometer?? Massive upholstery with no headrests??
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  #3  
Old 05-04-2004, 10:56 PM
joegolden's Avatar
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Location: Dalton, Georgia
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Thanks for the info! Any advice from those who know would be great.

Yes it has the white Ivory steering wheel. It is old and cracked in some spots. Not sure what ya mean about the speedo. Nice seats with no headrests. Cool car.

Explain the kingpin suspension for me please? That is exactly right about the tranny. I was wondering what held it on. That makes sense now.
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Current stable......
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11’ Saab 9-5 NG 94k
10’ e550 4matic 185k

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02' e320 210k
00' e430 167k
01' e320 171k (regret sale)
91' 300d 2.5t 300k (sold to ecoofidaho)
79' 240d 177k (old yellow my avatar)
87' 300d 169k (junk but fast)
85' 300tdt 261k (RBM parts delivery)
85' 300dt 68k (one owner cream puff)
82' 240d 250k
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  #4  
Old 05-05-2004, 07:24 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Long Island, NY
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They are indeed unique cars. The original carbs are "oval", dual, twin solexes (two throats in each carb). They can be upgraded to a pair of zeniths from a mid-1963 to end of run car. If you're going to do a carb swap, watch the jets, which are different for each model on either solex or zenith carb.

Rebuilding either set of carbs requires patience and reading the manuals. The two hard parts:
- Getting them balanced.
- Understanding when it works right and what you need to do to get it there.

It's not about being difficult, it's that you probably don't have a base to compare it against.

I went through about 4 iterations on my first car and got it almost right and finally called in a pro. In your case, the pro is this list and its archives. There is plenty of material to research. Spend a few nights reading.

- Make sure the ignition is to spec and there is at least half a tank of good gas.
- Perform a compression test.
- Look for and fix vacuum leaks and possibly a bad head gasket.
- Change the plugs and wires. Get "the right kind".
- Cleans and adjust the carbs.

Each step will get it better.

Also, is this guy a good friend? If so, don't let any car trouble get between that. A REALLY good looking car, with NO rust and serviceable interior (no rips, no wood needing refinishing), but runs like crap is worth about 1,000$.

Underside rust, torn leather bad chrome drop the price fast.

-CTH
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  #5  
Old 05-05-2004, 02:40 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Upstate SC
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Buy it if you love it; otherwise you will spend $10,000 to make it perfect and it will be worth maybe $5,000.

The Barber pole speedo description referres to the design of the speedo as you zoom up to top speed the center of the speedo rotates an gives the illusion of a rising thermometer with 3 different colors.

The brakes should be finned drums all the way around. The drums are gold, ok about $250 each new and anywhere between $20 -$100 each used. The shoes are expensive too, make sure they work well before driving through Atlanta or you'll piss your pants.

Check for rust under the mat in the trunk, and the floors...

I got the front and back windshields if you need them...

1961 220b 111.010-10-07744 -sent to China to be recycled into Walmart crap.
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  #6  
Old 05-07-2004, 01:52 AM
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Location: Alexandria, Virginia
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If it's a 220b, it should have a pair of single throat Solex carbs, plainer rear bumper, smaller taillights and less power than the S/SE versions. Base 220b drum brakes should have manual adjusters which are, in my opinion, better than the tempermental 'automatic' adjusters of the more deluxe Fintails. Base 220b models came stock without power brakes so pedal effort may be high.'63 and later 220 sedans got power assisted front discs - a big improvement over the earlier drums. After '63, power steering became more widely availible too.

If you decide to get the car, I recommend new rubber brake hoses if they haven't been replaced recently. The rubber may look fine on the outside but can swell and plug up internally. Wheel cylinder boots and seals are still availible. If cost of replacement brake shoes becomes a problem, the old ones can be sent out to be relined.
I drove my old Ponton 180b for years with the tired shift linkage secured by a 'retainer' made from a wire hanger but I think the replacement bushings are still availible. New motor mounts may be needed. They made a big difference in the smoothness and 'feel' of my 60 Fintail 220S. Also check if the driveshaft flex-joint and center bearing rubber have been replaced - another potential trouble spot on these cars.
Try to verify how old the tires are on that 220. My 220S came with 11 year old Pirellis. Replacement 13 inch radial tires are still availible but are getting harder to find. I'm switching my Fintail to 14 inch rims off a '68 280S. Check the oil pressure guage on a hot engine. It can read as low as around 15 or so at idle but the guage should hit max quickly at anything significantly above idle speed. Check the engine oil for a gas smell. Rich carb adjustment or excessive/improper choke operation can dilute the oil with gas.
If so, change the oil ASAP.

Since getting used to the drum brakes and manual steering, I've had no problem with power on my '60 Fintail in local driving and occasional highway trips. It's not quick like a modern Honda or VW, but faster and better handling than my old 4 cylinder Ponton. You need to rev the small sixes somewhat to get the best acceleration.
If that body is straight and solid (Check thoroughly for rust!), with a decent interior, I'd grab it for $1000, unless you'd prefer the more modern amenites of a later model.

Happy Motoring, MArk
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Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 05-07-2004 at 01:58 AM.
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  #7  
Old 05-08-2004, 12:12 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Flyover State
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I would like to associate myself with the comments from the esteemed members of this panel.

The shift linkage bushings are cheap and generic MB parts. I get mine for about $5.
Also, IMO $1,000 is a steal if it won't be too hard to get it running well. These cars are dead simple to work on.
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  #8  
Old 05-09-2004, 12:11 AM
WANT '71 280SEL's Avatar
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If you decide you don't want the POS, well.... look under my name to the left...
Thanks
David

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