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#1
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Valve adjusters
I've been toiling away at getting the 4.5 back together. The number of swear words has increased while the love for this project has decreased. R&R cylinder head really is a tedious job!
But, I think I'm about 87% complete. The concern is in regards to the adjusters, they are pretty much bottomed out with almost no more room for slack if the valves get tight. It is like that on both sides, so I don't think the valve job on the drivers head had much to do with it. What can be done about this? Thanks
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63 220S W111 76 300D W115 2013 VW JSW TDI M6 previously- 73 280 SEL 4.5 86 300E 5 speed 2010 VW Jetta TDI M6 |
#2
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Josh: MAKE SURE you set the clip on the rocker properly!
I can draw quicker and better than I can describe so... Basically, you can accidentally put the clips on where the red mark is and it makes the rockers sit a lot higher. If you do it with one you can do it to all of them the same way. You have to carefully make sure you put the clip into the groove. Otherwise, see if you can buy smaller inserts (adjust shims? would think "rotocap" is the piece the spring rests on?) - the round parts that sit between the valve and rocker arms.
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#3
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Thanks Tomguy.
I adjusted the valves without the clips in place, but no doubt I put them on incorrectly since at that point I was a bit frustrated. I'm glad to hear those little round bits are key to more adjuster slack. They are supposedly cheap and my mechanic has them. One of the guys the works at the indie shop said he threw out a box of those, along with a bunch of other parts since he had no more room.
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63 220S W111 76 300D W115 2013 VW JSW TDI M6 previously- 73 280 SEL 4.5 86 300E 5 speed 2010 VW Jetta TDI M6 |
#4
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josh: Prepare to be p*ssed though when you have to take your cams back off to put the thinner ones in! (I've removed and replaced both cams twice on mine now, and when I do the heads, it'll be 3x...)
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#5
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Actually taking the cam off wouldn't bother me that much at this point. But I'd be if I have to take the towers off.
But for some reason I'm thinking the cam doesn't come off. You mean the circular thingies that the tip of the rocker presses againts that sits on top of the valve/valve spring assembly? One would only need a spring compressor to get the rocker arm out of the way right?
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63 220S W111 76 300D W115 2013 VW JSW TDI M6 previously- 73 280 SEL 4.5 86 300E 5 speed 2010 VW Jetta TDI M6 |
#6
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Josh: Dunno how you plan to take the cam out with the towers on, the cam is held in pretty tightly by the valve springs since at least 2 are always pressuring it...
Edit: Oh, nah, it's impossible, it'd have to go out the back and the firewall is kinda in the way (the front tower is the smallest diameter bearing, you probably can't get a lobe through it nevermind the second bearing! Dunno if you'd get nearly enough clearance by compressing the valve springs... it's worth a try I suppose
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#7
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Quote:
Wow. Well, the little pieces are referred to as "thrust pieces" in the manual. They are available in 2.5, 3.5 and 4.5mm thickness. I still say you don't need to remove the cam to get them out. Just compress the spring, pop off the rocker and voila! (We're thinking of the same thing right?)
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63 220S W111 76 300D W115 2013 VW JSW TDI M6 previously- 73 280 SEL 4.5 86 300E 5 speed 2010 VW Jetta TDI M6 |
#8
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Tomguy, another question:
What if any sealant should I put on the coolant sensor threads? The ones that screw into the front of the intake manifold. Should I put same stuff on the gasket that goes between the water pump and the fixture that sits right on top of it? Thanks for your help. Btw, I haven't gotten the cam out with the towers in place but will let you know when I find a way.
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63 220S W111 76 300D W115 2013 VW JSW TDI M6 previously- 73 280 SEL 4.5 86 300E 5 speed 2010 VW Jetta TDI M6 |
#9
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Seal on coolant sensor threads? None needed. There should be a CRUSH WASHER there. If there isn't buy a new one from FastLane, they're cheap enough.
As for the other seal, if it's a paper-type seal, some orange (high-temp) RTV silicone VERY THINLY applied to the outside of it, let it get a bit "tacky" (5 mins or so) then put it on. Did that with the 2 water pumps I've put on different vehicles and neither has leaked. I REALLY doubt you'll have enough clearance with the cams on to even get the compressor tool on the springs, nevermind compressing them enough to yoink the rockers out. You can try, of course...
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#10
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Quote:
I've done it numerous times. Maybe the kind of spring compressor I have is different than the kind you've seen.
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63 220S W111 76 300D W115 2013 VW JSW TDI M6 previously- 73 280 SEL 4.5 86 300E 5 speed 2010 VW Jetta TDI M6 |
#11
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Rockers just pop right out when unloaded with the clip removed, you don't need a spring compressor.
Use the brush-on type Permatex on the gasket, it seals better. I've had terrible luck in the past with silicone on cooling system parts, it won't stick to anthing contaminated with glycol. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
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