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  #1  
Old 07-05-2004, 11:16 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 20
Heater Control Valve W114

The heater in my 280 114 has never been that good and levers have always been stiff. So I pulled the control valve off (located at the firewall behind the carb. It is brass and has three hoses connected).

There is a single flathead screw with a lock washer holding each of the two cables on. One of the cables on my car was missing the lock washer (first problem). The valve action was extremely stiff so I pulled the valve apart - 2 valves held in with lock ring washers. The valves are 2 piece with a center rubber grommet and what was a rubber "o-ring". My o-rings were completely shot and I did not replace them. Hopefully they are not "that" needed. But they seem fairly generic to replace.

I cleaned the valves and inside shaft with brass polish(they were sticky with old benz muck) and installed a new lock nut. The valves and levers operate very smooth now.

2 things: I have not tested the car yet (waiting for mail order parts) and I plan on flushing the system to elimanate air pockets.

Also keep track of the valve placement when removing - there are matching marks on the valve and cable attachment but you never know.

I will post when shes fired-up and tested.

Mark

1974 Blue 280 - needs a sound system to go with the duals...

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  #2  
Old 07-06-2004, 01:28 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 758
The small O rings in your heater valve should prove to be critical items once you charge up the system with hot water under pressure. If not, then you have something truly unique. The factory O rings that I have in my small parts cigar box are molded with a taper to seal the shaft. They are "special,"but not having them in my hand when I O'hauled the valve, I simply used parts house O rings. Had to stack a couple to get a tight seal, but they seem to work just fine.

Once I got the special rigs from MBZ, they cost an arm and leg,(MBZ is mighty proud of these little parts) I just kept them in the small parts box until they were needed...haven't been needed yet after 20+ years. That silky smooth operation should go away after you get the O rings installed, and be replaced by a firm but steady resistance.

Happy motoring,

230/8
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  #3  
Old 07-06-2004, 02:55 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 5,318
Do get some o-rings before you start the engine.

PN's are 000 835 12 98 and 000 835 13 98. Two of each.

__________________
Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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