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#1
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108 Diff & Subframe Bushing Replacement
Replaced my rear diff mount last week, along with my rear subframe mounts. I decided it's one of those 'world of difference' repairs. Body roll has been significantly reduced and the 'clunk' I used to get on bumps is gone. The diff mount was in two pieces and the subframe mounts weren't so hot either.
The rear diff mount is located in the very front part of your trunk -it's under a little plastic panel. R&R wasn't difficult, taking about 2.5 hrs. I'm applying the peer pressure to get you guys to do the same. If they're old = (over 10 yrs), swap'em out. R Subframe mount (x2) p/n 110 352 10 65 R Diff mount p/n 110 350 06 75 |
#2
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Joe:
I wonder if that would also reduce the pronounced pitching I get from the rear! Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#3
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There's also a horizontal pair of rubber bushings attached to the chassis and the differential. Did you look at them?
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Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
#4
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Wbain-
If you're speaking of the tubular bushings which attach the trailing arms to the rear axle, I was going to replace them but didn't have a socket large enough to remove the bolts. I attempted to use a crescent wrench but couldn't get a good handle on them. Didn't notice excessive lateral slop so I let them go until another day. Or are you thinking of a different bushing(s)? psfred- If your 'pitching' is rear axle hop under cornering, ummm, couldn't hurt. Car's noticeably more stable in the turns. I'm accelerating in the turns now, instead of just coasting. Not quite ready for donuts yet, but give me time. I used your earler posted r/r advice in my repair. Thanks! Last edited by JMela; 07-10-2004 at 01:45 PM. |
#5
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So can a handy amature handle this? How did you jack the car up? My car needs this.
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1970 280SE Coupe W111 Chassis Number: 111 024 12 Engine Number: 130 980 12 Exterior Color: 180 - Silver Grey Metallic Interior Color: 243 - Leather Light Red Transmission # 004470 |
#6
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Had my car on jackstands, chucks behind the front wheels. Lifted up the diff a bit with a jack. Opened trunk and hopped inside, mafia-victim style. Loosened 4 bolts going to frame and 1 large bolt going to diff. Jacked up diff a bit further so mount 'pops' up a little bit. Remove bolts, popped out old mount, pop in new mount. Allign new mount and partially screw in bolts. Dropped diff down partially to seat the mount and torque all bolts. That was pretty much it, albeit with a bit more cursing. I think you can handle it - I'm not exactly Mr. Goodwrench myself. Be patient and make sure your car is jacked up safely.
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#7
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I loosen the 5 nuts in the trunk first, before jacking the car up. That center nut (24mm?) can be frozen if it hasn't gone anywhere in 30+ years. You might want a breaker bar and or a 2' length of pipe handy to get some leverage.....
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#8
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All of the million-year-old bushings are in perfect equilibrium with each other. No need to disturb this :p
Actually, I really need to look into replacing alot of suspension parts and bushings. I did all of this to my bmw and it feels like a whole new car. I'm just not familiar with the in's and out's of my benz like I am that car.
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1968 250SE |
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