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  #1  
Old 08-06-2004, 10:25 AM
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Looking for general information on 1973 280

Hi! I am in the process of purchasing a 1973 280 sedan. I am new to vintage Mercedes, but I know a little about cars. Been in the process of restoring a 1974 MGB for a couple years.

Can anyone offer any good narrative or statistical information on the car's drivetrain? I am looking for specs on the engine, design notes, transmission description, rear end, independent rear suspension, etc...

It looks to me to be a Solex carbureted, inline 6, with an independent suspension. dual camshafts?, overdrive?, differential design?

any help would be great. Thanks!

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Old 08-06-2004, 12:58 PM
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That's the first year (in the US) for the twin-cam six in the 'New Generation' - W114 smaller body sedan and coupe. It's also the last year for the small, pretty bumpers and front vent windows. The early twin-cams suffered from excessive wear at the lobes and followers - repaired with redesigned cams and a modified cam housing. Usuall symptom is lots of valvetrain noise. I've heard there were issues with timing chains too. Unfortunately, the FI versions of these cars were never sold in the US. The 4V Solex carbs are trouble prone but can be repaired. Aftermarket replacments are availible. At some point, on the 280, Mercedes automatics switched from a fluid coupling to a torque converter. I don't know if that applys to the '73. I recently test-drove a '75 280 and that car did accelerate much better than my '72 250. Othewise, most issues are the same as other W114/115 cars. Right now, the coupes are the only real collectables in this series. Check over for rust, heater fan operation and service records. HOT oil pressure should max out easily at much above idle speed. Also, while parked, check underhood for movement of the steering box while someone turns the wheel - the framerails have been known to fatigue-crack at the steering box mounting bolts. Another experience I've had with W114/115 cars is cracking and leaks at the top of the gas tank which will show up when the tank is completely full.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Old 08-06-2004, 12:59 PM
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1. You have the basics correct, but it is probably a 4-speed auto, no OD.

2. You can get the CD from Mercedes or other sources for the 114 model. It has all the info you will need. There are some bootleg copies on e-bay.

3. Haynes has a manual for the 114 body, but covers the SOHC engine. The have another manual for the 123 body with the DOHC engine.

The worst aspect of the car is the Solex.
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'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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Old 08-06-2004, 02:33 PM
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thanks!

great info!

the car is having a problem with the carb. i am going to purchase a rebuild kit on eBay within the week. what typically goes wrong with the carbs? needles? floats? i don't know much about how Solex's work. coudl i get the car started by spraying some fuel or carb cleaner down the throttle body? it turns over fine and makes all the right noises, but just doesn't fire up.

i'll check on the steering box and the gas tank. didn't know those were problem areas.

i am also sourcing some replacement rear fender panels (behind the rear wheel, below the bumper) to get rid of some rsut there. and it will need a floor patch under the driver's feet. aside from those bruises and a problem with the sunroof, it looks to be in good shape.

i think i am getting a good price, so if i can source parts cheaply, this should be a fairly painless rennovation.
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Old 08-06-2004, 08:37 PM
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So you haven't had the car running yet? Is the fuel pump not pumping? Filter clogged?
My ex-boss had a '76 280. In addition to replacing the camshafts, I had to go into the carb after the engine died. On the 4V Solex, the inlet valve seat assy was simply pressed into the carb body. It had worked loose, shutting off the fuel. I had to peen the bore in the carb body so it would have a fresh grip on the inlet valve. Not that this happens on all these Solexes, but it did in my case.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Old 08-06-2004, 09:03 PM
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i looked at the carb quickly and primed it a few times and could smell fuel. it's getting there, but the question is where, how, and how much.

thanks for the tips and keep 'em coming!

any remedy for a faulty sunroof? i found this kit:
EDIT: Bad link removed.

Will it work? Has anyone dealt with these guys?
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Last edited by whunter; 01-07-2007 at 12:30 AM.
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  #7  
Old 08-06-2004, 10:26 PM
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The best thing to do with that Solex is get a Holley spreadbore (about 300 cfm) and replace it.

The Solex is a pure pain to get working right, if you can do it -- Solex couldn't. This will be the worst part of the car.

Drive line is fourspeed auto or manual (probably no manual in the US), diff bolted to the rear subframe, semitrailing arms with double constant velocity joint half shafts. Front end is a standard double control arm with ball joints, pretty vanilla.

Things you will need to fix once you get it running:

Tie rods are probably gone, likely drag link too.

Front and rear subframe mounts, engine mounts, flex disks on driveshaft. DO NOT ATTMEPT TO REPLACE THE U-JOINT!! I did, shakes like crazy. It's straked in, not located with snap rings. Get a used driveshaft if it's bad, although this isn't likely.

You need new front and reat windshield gaskets, the ones in there are rock ard leak, this will cause the floor to rust away. Will also get the rear fenders.

You will love this car, I wish I'd grabbed the one I saw in spite of the rust.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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Old 08-07-2004, 12:47 AM
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The last 280 sedan I test drove, ran well enough but was dirty, rusty and had alot of messed-up underhood wiring and plumbing, other stuff not working and the seats were shot but the greedy dealer wanted $3500.
For a sedan at that price, I didn't want a project car!

12 years ago, I had a local driveline shop rebuild the driveshaft for my '72 250. Basically, they cut off the portion of the original yoke containing the non-replaceable joint and welded in a new section with a replaceable Chevy joint. Then they rebalanced the whole driveshaft assembly. Including installing my new center bearing it cost about $220, which at the time, was less than half of what Mercedes wanted for a new replacement driveshaft section with the 'U' joint.

My current '60 Fintail is going to need new 'U' joints. Fortunately, they're the replaceable type.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Old 08-07-2004, 01:28 AM
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What more can we say about the 280/8??

The car weighs about 500 lbs lighter than the subsequent 280E and will outhandle any later model ball-joint Benz with the possible exception of the 116 high-speed hotrod.

Meanwhile the 114 has weakness in wheel bearings and center driveshaft support bearings that become apparent between 150k and 200k miles..... but that's no big deal.

The seats are floppy as hell because crybabies *****ed about flamable horse-hair padding being "unsafe." And models built between 1973 and 1979 suffered the indignity of using inferior rust-prone Italian and Russian steel in body sheetmetal on account of the German steel workers' strike.

Otherwise, I agree with everybody else that camshafts are key!! You can tell if they are wearing out by visual inspection. Gotta change the oil at 3,000 mile intervals to keep em fresh!

Unfortunately 280 twincam shafts and their carrier are on everybody's rare and endangered parts list. Otherwise the flow-through twincam 6 cyl engine is widely acclaimed as the finest 6 cyl longblock that MB has ever produced.
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Old 08-07-2004, 09:12 PM
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I would not bother rebuilding the Solex. The parts that come in the kits are not what wear out or go bad. The most common problem is warping of the top plate and vacuum leaks, or just plain wear in the throttle body. And they were miserable things to begin with!

Look around for a Holley replacement.

But if you are getting a squirt of gas from the accelerator pump, and the choke is working, you should be able to at least start it. It might not idle, but it should start.
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'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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  #11  
Old 08-08-2004, 12:14 AM
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On my recent junkyard trip, I saw a late 70's W116 280S with the twincam engine and missing Solex. Banks located in Northern Va. in Prince William County on Rt 234.
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Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

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  #12  
Old 08-16-2004, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctaylor738
But if you are getting a squirt of gas from the accelerator pump, and the choke is working, you should be able to at least start it. It might not idle, but it should start.

Well, with a little jiggling and finnagling, the car started! I think it is having fuel delivery problems. We squirted some carb cleaner into the carb and shook it up a bit, primed the engine to build up pressure and it fired up. Idle was rough at first but it held idle for about 20 minutes and then died out again. We added a gallon of gas and tried to get it started again, but without any luck (good thing it was already on the trailer!). It would run on the carb cleaner, but as soon as I stopped spraying it in, it would stall again. and this time, no gasoline smell. I suspect the fuel pump is broken or maybe the fuel filter is clogged and needs to be replaced.

Is the fuel filter commonly called the "fuel screen" on these cars? Seems like an inexpensive possible fix.

Any good web sites on the operation of these Solex carbs? The "instructions" with the repair kit were, um, not very detailed...
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Old 08-16-2004, 02:28 PM
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Often, the mechanical fuel pumps have a screen secured under a cover but it's not much of a filter. That issue will be solved If you replace the pump. Also check if there may be a clogged screen inside the fuel line fitting at the carb. I like to add an aftermarket fuel filter in the line before the pump.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Old 08-16-2004, 09:52 PM
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You should also check the fuel lines at the tank and under the driver's seat for leaks -- if the suction hose is bad, you may only be sucking up air instead of gas.

There is also a screen on the suction fitting inside the tank (large "bolt head" in the center of the bottom of the tank) that is probably clogged with rust and crud. Remove, clean or replace, and if rusty, get the tank cleaned and coated or it will likely plug again.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #15  
Old 12-15-2004, 04:55 PM
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Just bought a 1973 Mercedes 280 in Phoenix

HI Baco,

I just purchased a 1973 Mecedes 280 with the 2.8 liter dual cam. The carburator is a Solex 4A1. I have found a manual on it but it's not great. There is a website called manualsunlimited.com. They have a CD version for about $24. It links to the Mercedes website and really is the service manual. I'm not great with mechanics but I'm working on it. Any advise on fixing power windows would be helpful. You can email me directly if you want. tkotanch@hotmail.com I'll gladly fax you what you need from manual.

Tom in Scottsdale, Arizona

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