Guys

Sorry to interupt the oil thread. I just got a new vacuum hose and when I tried installing it, it got kinked all over the place trying to get it to do a U shape like the old one. Is there a secret? Boiling water? Heat gun? It still works but looking really ugly...

OK back to the oil thread....I used to think that the synt was thinner too but like I said, my 5W40 synt and 20W50 dino show hardly any difference in oil pressure. Dino's viscosity starts high when new but drops quickly over time, starting with higher pressures but in a week or so will drop to the synt level. Synt just stays the same over the life of the oil. I think one also has to consider what is happening over the life of the oil and not just what's new out of the bottle.

Oreo

Oreo:

Your instincts with respect to oil are, IMO, correct. With all due respect to the other expressed opinions on this subject, your use of synthetic oil should be a sound move, provided you select the correct viscosity grade. For this choice, I would recommend that you dig into the owner's manual where you will likely find a reference chart. Your choice, and the manual recommendation, is more dependent on the engine's original design clearances in the bearings and the anticipated operating ambient temperature range. Synthetic oils have the advantage over dino oils in the area of consistency: with respect to temperatures, and also with respect to service life. As to leakage from seals, this was, at one time, a problem; my M180 leaked Mobil 1 15/50 synthetic at the crank front seal after it was rebuilt, about 15 years ago. I then switched to dino oil and the leak went away. However, Mobil 1 has cured this problem and I now use the same 15/50 grade without any leaks. As a bonus it is much more consistent with oil pressure on HOT days than it was with 20/50 dino.

As to your concern with the vacuum hose, any chance they sent the wrong one? Many are shaped into pre-determined curves to fit specific areas, like the "L" shaped modulator hoses on eary Ford C4 automatics. If not, then time and temperature will most likely mold it to the new contour. Make sure it is not kinked, the vacuum signal needs to be unrestricted.

Finally, as to the idle oil pressure, this is, in my experience, less an issue than the speed that it rises to full pressure once engine speed goes above idle. So long as the needle pegs out immediately, you don't have a problem, even if the hot idle pressure is at 1 bar or even a bit lower.

Again, just another set of opinions based on diffierent experiences with my own car.

Best of luck with your work.

230/8

'cause it's thicker and it breaks down faster then synt. at least in those weights...

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[QUOTE=230/8]Oreo:
As to your concern with the vacuum hose, any chance they sent the wrong one? Many are shaped into pre-determined curves to fit specific areas, like the "L" shaped modulator hoses on eary Ford C4 automatics. If not, then time and temperature will most likely mold it to the new contour. Make sure it is not kinked, the vacuum signal needs to be unrestricted.


Hi 230/8

Went back to the supplier with this and after going thru his stock, he concluded that it was a bad batch. The tecalan tubing looked a little too thin. Finally we found one from an older stock that could take the bend without kinking.

Oreo