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  #1  
Old 09-07-2004, 07:43 PM
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Question 1974 450 SL--newbie questions

okay, a few of these are a bit embarrassing, but here goes:

1. what is the proper battery size? the one that came with (that is now dead) is a 48-I brought home a 49 per the spec book at Kragen but it's too big for the tray...so then i went to sears and they said something about a 48 1/2 that they didn't stock? what to do--stick with the 48?

2. why is the VIN on the radiator tag (107 044 12 021957) different than the VIN on the windshield, frame and data card (107 044 12 020552) and should i worry?

3. how do i start the windshield wash? the control doesn't look anything like what's in the manual...its pushes in to start the wipers, pushes forward to turn on the brites, has a I-II-II switch for the wiper speed and that's it!

4. i need to replace the antenna that is broken off right at the body--the data card shows the code for automatic antenna but there's no switch on the dash...does this mean it extends when the radio is turned on? any advice on the best place online to purchase a replacement?

5. how the heck do i get it to blow cool air? i know the A/C needs recharging, but i live in s.f. and a bit of fog thru the vents would do just as well and save me some $$...unfortunately, i've tried every possible combination of knob settings and the only thing i seem to get is hot air!! (again, my controls look nothing like the manual---i think i may have gotten the wrong manual!!)

thanx in advance for any and all advice...this is a great site--i'm glad i discovered it!!

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  #2  
Old 09-07-2004, 07:55 PM
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hey welcome to this amazing website,

I can answer some of your questions but not all of them.

1-If the battery that was in there fit tightly and all, I would put one in there thats just the same. I couldnt tell you whats in mine because im too lazy to go check the faded label but the 48 sounds about right.

2- The vin tag, I am not that meticulous of a person to check every vin tag in the car. If there is no obvious signs of repair such as a weld line, I wouldnt worry about it. The car might have been in an accident where they had to replace the rad support, if the cars integrity is fine and the pieces match up, I say its fine.

3-The windshielf wash starts when you push the entire thing in. Twisting is to activate wipers, up and down is for signals and back and forth is for the brights. Pushing it in towards the steering column is the wash option. Make sure there is enough fluid.

4-The antenna has a switch on the dash, it is unfunctional because the antenna is broken and the motor cannot retract it. The best places to buy the replacement is either here on fastlane or any other mercedes benz parts place on the internet, search for google. Supporting the forum by using fastlane is always nice tho.

5-The air temperature control is a dial that you spin up for her down for cold. The label might be worn off but thats the general idea. If you take a picture of the interior of your car and post it here, you will get the controls figured out in no time.

Good luck with the sl,
Peter
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  #3  
Old 09-07-2004, 08:01 PM
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Here goes:

Proper battery size is probably the series 49 "international" series (at sears) -- the correct battery may be the longer, lower profile than "standard" one. It will just exactly fill the battery tray, you usually have to completely remove the hold down to get it in. There is no "series 48 1/2" battery.

If the VIN is different, you have a replacement radiator support, so either extensive rust repair as been done or it's been wrecked, most likely the latter -- these things hold value well enough they don't get totalled very easily unless completely squashed. Most likely a collision with a truck, ripped radiator support, hood, fenders and grille up, missed the engine. MB should have records for both numbers, that will likely tell you original equipment and color, etc.

Windshield wash is the pedal up above your left foot -- pump slowly to spray fluid, the wipers come on when you push down. Likely doesn't work because the rubber bulb and/or check valve are long gone. The I/II is speed, defaults to low (I) when switched off.

To replace the antenna, remove the trim ring at the base and turn radio on -- I believe one knob on the radio has the three position switch behind the knob -- this will be down (bottom), mid height (center) full extension (top). Don't remember if it is on the right or left knob, though. Not marked, just a lever. With the switch set to full extension, the remains of the mast should come up out of the post with the bezel removed. You may need to grab the stump with a pair of pliers and help it along a bit.

If the motor doesn't run, you probably need a new one. If it runs and you hear the broken end flapping around, you will have to take it apart to get the plastic "tail" out.

Once removed and motor working, with radio on and motor in fully extended position, feed the "tail" of the new mast into the motor until the teeth engage in the drive gear and switch radio off. This will pull the "tail" into the motor and wind it down until the antenna seats. Guide the mast into the hollow post and re-install the bezel. May take a couple tries to get it all the way in.Teeth point forwark, I think but toward the gear in any case.

If all you get is heated air at the windshield, check the fuse for the cliamate control and the green vac line in the engine compartement -- won't run the blower with no vac. Bad fuse will give you full heat in defrost mode.

You may also have a bad climate control servo -- these are expensive, so not often fixed in older cars. If it leaks, it and the amplifer are toast.

Peter
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  #4  
Old 09-07-2004, 08:08 PM
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thanx peter & peter!! i'll have a fiddle tonite and post pix if i still can't figure it out...
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Old 09-07-2004, 10:25 PM
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Yes, it helps if you post pics so we know what you're talking about.. but here's my two cents anyhow:

1) Batteries produce different amperages... a 650 amp battery should do fine.

2) Which VIN# matches the title? If the rad tag is incorrect, throw it away.

3a) Push lever activated washer operates an electric pump at the bottle.
3b) Foot activated pump is a rubber bellows - you will know if it leaks.

4) Hirschmann makes the electric antenna and can probably supplly a replacement mast. The original can be operated by turning on the radio or throwing a switch on the dash - depends on which radio the car has.

5a) Does the '74 107 actually have auto clim control? If so it's big trouble.
5b) Otherwise the color coded A/C twist knob is either green or blue w/writing

Yes, there are lots of discrepancies and variations even in cars of identical model years. That's because these cars were hand assembled in Stuttgart with mechanics reaching into grab bags for parts. Many of these parts boxes were separated as either German spec or US spec. Whenever MB came up with new parts designs then new improved fiddly bits went to the assembly line immediately.

Welcome to the Vintage Forum where collective wisdom of everybody here covers all MB variations from about 1958-1979.
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  #6  
Old 09-07-2004, 11:27 PM
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1974-450-slc

If the dash on the SLC is just like a SL then the American version has one control for blower speeds and one control for turning on the AC and a switch for cruise control. It has 4 plastic levers just like a 1975-450-SE. 2 for each side for controlling heat and defrost..the plastic surrounds the levers slide in are about a inch longer in the SLC compared to the SE and I am looking for the plastic surrounds of these levers for the SLC...I have both of these cars...nothing automatic in the SLC....I am looking for some of the plastic that is right behind these levers and controls...most of it has been broken and lost in the 74 SLC...I would appreciate any help that I can get....Jim
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Old 09-07-2004, 11:50 PM
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This week, I've been doing some work on a friend's '73 450SL and it doesn't have the automatic climate control, just 4 vertical sliding levers, an AC knob and a fan knob on the center-dash. It has a vacuum operated heater valve under the hood at the drivers side firewall. The vacuum diaphragm on the valve is shredded but the valve linkage can still be hand operated, open or closed.

If you DO have the automatic climate control there will be a large temperature thumbwheel and a row of pushbuttons on your center-dash. If your air vents function OK but you don't want to pay the kings-ransom for a new automatic climate servo, you can install a manual heater valve in one of the heater hoses. I installed a cable-operated one (I think it was for an '80s Plymouth Horizon) connected to a lawnmower control knob under the dash, in a friend's '79 300D, to bypass his roached out climate servo.
(If you don't want unsightly lawnmower parts cluttering up your interior, you could just install the valve and open the hood to work it when needed)

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Old 09-09-2004, 06:24 PM
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wow--what a fountain of info!! truly much appreciated...

yes, you were all correct, no climate control--just the green a/c dial...

i ended up putting in the 48 battery--no way i could make the 49 fit--and it seems to be doing the job!!

last loose end--which replacement antenna to purchase, automatic or not??

i tried the lever behind the left radio knob but it seems to control treble/bass as marked...tried listening for a noise when the radio was switched on/off but nothing...since the data card is marked with the code for auto antenna, i'm guessing that means the card is right and i have a dead motor in addition to the broken antenna...

i'm attempting to attach pix of the dash and antenna (please excuse bad focus on the latter!!)...

thanx in advance, beth
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1974 450 SL--newbie questions-imgp0087.jpg   1974 450 SL--newbie questions-imgp0088.jpg  
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  #9  
Old 09-09-2004, 10:00 PM
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Antenna

It doesn't look to me like your antenna is missing...You might want to turn your radio on and then test the connectors back at the antenna motor to see if you are getting any power...If your radio doesn't come on then you might check your fuses...their is a inline fuse right behind the radio and your radio is also tied to your main fuse box which is down in the passenger well just to the right of where their feet will be. Another thing, is this the original radio, a sony will not activate your antenna...Jim
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Old 09-09-2004, 10:40 PM
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gimme a low-tech 240D
 
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Beth - you've got the makings of a really, really sweet car ther";-] .... Possibly the best year of the 450SL before MB got radical with the HVAC system. And the original radio adds lots of value to the car.

Probably what you want to do is lean over the fender and listen for activity from the Hirschmann antenna motor inside your trunk while somebody turns on your radio with your key turned to 'ignition-on' positition just before the starter motor kicks and does its job.

If you think the antenna motor is good, then contact Hirschmann about getting another antenna pole.

http://www.hirschmann-usa.com/aa/amfm.asp
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  #11  
Old 09-10-2004, 02:12 PM
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silly me...

my ignorance knows no bounds--i was listening for the antenna motor at the base of the mast--didn't realize it was in the trunk!!

i will follow your instructions and report back!!

glad to hear i picked a good one!! still wish i had found one with the smaller bumpers though...
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Old 09-10-2004, 09:12 PM
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Motor

Your motor should be at the base of the mast...My antenna is on the front driver side fender and the motor is on the inside of the front fender. My car is a 1974-450 SLC. America version....Where is your antenna mast located...Jim
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Old 09-14-2004, 07:13 PM
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the saga continues

so yes, the antenna is definitely broken (sorry for the bad photo--the white nubby thing is whats left of the tail i think)...the reason i couldn't hear it before is because i had pulled the #2 fuse...long story, but i noticed the clock not working when i first purchased the car, checked the fuse, it was missing, replaced it and sure enough ran the battery dead--checked this forum and found that bad clocks are a known bug...

so i put the fuse back to test the antenna motor and i the good news is i hear it running at the base of the mast--the bad news is it goes on and on and on...so perhaps the battery killer was the antenna motor not the clock after all!!

so i guess either the motor is bad or the mast is broken in such a way to confuse the motor into runnnung and running--either way i guess i'm best off replacing both the motor and mast...what the heck--seems pretty hard to get to so might as well do both...

and who knows, maybe once i do that i'll find the clock is good after all!?!? (not holding my breath though)...

thanx again for everyone's help and patience!! beth

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