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  #31  
Old 11-22-2004, 02:00 PM
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Location: Alexandria, Virginia
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Removing the injection unit wouldn't be my first task and anyway, I'd suggest getting a decent Mercedes repair manual first.

Recommend to first check the radiator and dipstick to see if the dreaded 'coolant in the crankcase' has occurred. If the worst has happened, stop there and decide if you will proceed any further, find a parts car or an engine, part it out, etc....
If the fluids look OK, but it's stuck, try penetrating oil or ATF in the sparkplug holes. After awhile, maybe a few days, try to turn the engine by hand. You may need to put a socket or wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt.

If it turns, remove the fuel pump from the rear, near the gas tank for testing. At this time you should drain the antique gas from the tank and blow out the main fuel lines. Apply 12 volts to the pump for a second to see if it runs. If not, the original pumps had a cover that you can remove to check, clean and try to turn/free-up the impeller by hand.

More to follow as you keep us advised.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 11-22-2004 at 05:19 PM.
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  #32  
Old 11-22-2004, 04:08 PM
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Location: Falls Church, VA
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I agree with Mark. No sense in messing with the injection pump until you know that fuel is getting to it, and able to get to the ijectors from the pump, and that the engine will turn over by hand, and that the starter works, and that it has spark. All this stuff is cheap compared to dealing with the pump.

I would also drain the gas tank and put a gallon of fresh gas in it and change the oil and filter if things start looking promising.

Removing the injection pump is no big deal. Getting it to work or finding one that does is the hard part.
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Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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  #33  
Old 11-22-2004, 05:43 PM
WANT '71 280SEL's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 3,378
Lost it. Winning bidder must have had some sort of bid winner software. He won by a fraction of a second...I'm so depressed it's pathetic; I had my heart set on this one...
David
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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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  #34  
Old 11-22-2004, 06:41 PM
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nyone know of others? I'd really like one like this that I can drive over to get, bummer.
Thanks
David
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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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  #35  
Old 11-22-2004, 07:00 PM
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I'm at a distict disadvantage compared to those with automatic computer-bidding software. One reason I haven't used Ebay so much lately.
Do you have a local Auto Trader or Antique Car Trader magazine in your local convenience store or magazine stand? Have you looked in Hemmings?
I know the SE versions are supposed to be the most desireable but after sitting for 15 years, you could have had an expensive headache and, in my opinion, the early automatics aren't the best option for these cars either.
In a 220 Fintail, look for a manual-shift.
The carburetor versions are also an easier and cheaper DIY proposition.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #36  
Old 11-22-2004, 07:28 PM
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Sorry you lost that one David.

I was watching the bidding and hoping you would win. If you bid in the last 30 seconds and bid a higher amount - even automatic bidding software will not beat you.

BTW what is your budget? I paid $2250 for a no-rust, working engine 61. And I also recently bought a 66 250s with a small amount of rocker rust and an engine which makes noise (may be bearing) for $722. I think the 61 is actually a better deal.

If you plan to spend $2-3000 I think you could find something you could drive home. But maybe have someone following you just in case. Or spent next to nothing and put $2-3000 into it.

There is still the one in Ontario that did not sell on ebay ($300). I might be usable for parts, but it would be nice to have someone rescue it.


Wally
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  #37  
Old 11-22-2004, 08:31 PM
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Contact the seller and make sure the winner actually pays for the car. That's how I got my 300se sedan. The winner didn't come through in the allotted 3 days and had the cash in hand. -CTH
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  #38  
Old 11-22-2004, 08:57 PM
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Location: Dallas, TX
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I contacted the seller within about 10 minutes of the close. The bidding was at $950, where we set it.(my dad and me frantically watching). He kept pushing F5 until it ended, even at the close, it showed we still would have to bid $960 to win. So we had to close out after the auction and open this thread to get a link to the auction to see who actually won. The guy who won came out of nowhere, so hopefully he's a deadbeat, though he has seemably good feedback. I'd like an SE because I would think they start better and would be easier to maintain once they're set up. I even PMed Autozen to ask about it, but he never responded. Oh yeah, with about 5 seconds left we bid $1k just to make sure it was ours, but he won with $1,025 if you haven't looked yet.

Please, Please let me know if any of you see one for sale. I'm desperate, but still steadfast in that it should be rust free, though I wouldn't mind a little surface rust in the trunk that I could sand down then POR 15.

About my budget, I can't spoend over 2k said and done. So, a car in CA can't cost more than $1,300 because it costs $750 or so to have it shipped.(I already looked)...

About the car in Ontario, I emailed him, and he didn't seem very interested in helping at all. He was pretty much one of those, "what you can see is what you get." he also said there was rust probably somewhere, so I could bet the floors are missing. Plus, I would really prefer a 111 if at all possible. Something about those headlights and tail lights.
Thanks
David
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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

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  #39  
Old 11-22-2004, 09:15 PM
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Location: Oakville Ontario Canada
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hi David -

is this the one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6329&item=4506436271&rd=1
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  #40  
Old 11-22-2004, 09:44 PM
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Hector, where is the one in Ontario you're talking about? I've been doing without and the garage looks ridiculous empty.

Mark
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  #41  
Old 11-22-2004, 10:11 PM
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Location: Oakville Ontario Canada
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hey Mark -

here is the link - didn't sell on ebay, but you could email owner.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4504022866&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

Let me know how it goes.
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  #42  
Old 11-22-2004, 11:39 PM
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Location: Northern Va.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hector111

I looked at this one. The engine block has been painted blue! What's up with that? Also, the plastic fuel filter is right over the exhaust manifold. There is also surface rust on the underside of the rear chassis.
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Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.
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  #43  
Old 11-23-2004, 10:41 AM
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No, that is not the one I almost bought. The one I wanted in on the first page in the first thread. It ended last night. I haven't heard anything back from the seller but I keep hoping I do.
Thanks
David
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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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  #44  
Old 11-23-2004, 11:56 AM
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
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As far as getting your bid in at the last second, I use this...

http://www.esnipe.com/

No need boost the amount by bidding early thru ebay, plug your amount in and the software will bid for you within 5 seconds of auction close. It's like 15 cents per use or something.
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  #45  
Old 11-23-2004, 12:25 PM
WANT '71 280SEL's Avatar
I'll Go Upside Your Head!
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 3,378
Wish I would have known about this earlier. I am still mad at myself for not just bidding $1100 at the end. We thought we had it won at $950, but it came back at $1,025. I would pay 1025 for that car, damn I'm mad. I still haven't ehard back from him, though I keep checking hoping I do.
Thanks
David

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