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#31
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#32
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Those sills aren't pretty, and it bodes poorly for the floors. I think you are making the right move in passing, at that money. It needs some serious work right now. Personally, I would much rather have a car with engine troubles and a nice body than vice versa. In time, something better will come.
If you have a bit more to throw around, there's a very pretty and very early DB334 fintail on ebay right now...garish overdyed interior (notice very rare bench seat, I've only seen this in a Universal) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6315&item=4509171134&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW |
#33
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David -
Check out this one - looks like is a driver - is getting lots of action - looks good http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6329&item=4509671438&rd=1
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1961 220SB Hydrak 1966 230S - Too Good for Parts 1981 300SD - now in Oakville |
#34
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Those are both out of my budget, but I wish...
fintail, I agree with you regarding the body situation. That's why I wanted the no-runner 220SE with that sunroof and pretty burgandy paint. Thanks David P.S. Hector, what's with your 230S that's too good for parts? I assume it's rusty? If it's not, I may be interested...Or I'm just showing signs of desperation.
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_____________________________________________ 2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles 1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles _____________________________________________ |
#35
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UNfortunately, people tend NOT to disclose a hell of alot of stuff on ebay... it is as the saying goes.... "Buyer Beware!". Good luck in your continued quest.........
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http://www.carsponsors.com/images/av...o_mercedes.jpg 1967 Mercedes 250S w/ 350 Chevy V8, stock transmission and rear end. 1968 Mercedes 250S w/ 229 Chevy V6, 350 Turbo Transmission with shift kit, and 1981 Corvette rear end. |
#36
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David
The 66 is a 230s I bought about 3 weeks ago, but I have not picked it up yet. The seller is getting a new title so I am waiting. From what I can tell, it has 2 small rust spots but a great interior, good chrome and a sunroof. The engine is not running and makes a noise. I havent decided what to do with it yet. But I think I could be a nice car if the frames are good.
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1961 220SB Hydrak 1966 230S - Too Good for Parts 1981 300SD - now in Oakville |
#37
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1961 220SB Hydrak 1966 230S - Too Good for Parts 1981 300SD - now in Oakville |
#38
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Quote:
http://www.pullapart.com/ Only 280 in their inventory... You know more about the body, so it could have been another fintail model/year/etc... I've still never found a w123 wagon in a boneyard, however...
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Cannondale ST600 XL Redline Monocog 29er 2011 Mini Cooper Clubman 2005 Honda Element EX www.djugurba.com www.waldenwellness.com |
#39
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David -
More fintails... http://www.collectorcartraderonline.com/caddetail.html?/ad-cache/10/5/2/76806552.htm http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/9/0/76852390.htm http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/2/7/76804827.htm http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/5/3/76900653.htm http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/1/1/77034811.htm http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/9/6/76215096.htm
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1961 220SB Hydrak 1966 230S - Too Good for Parts 1981 300SD - now in Oakville |
#40
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Hector, let me guess. You bought that off of ebay. Owner said it needed main bearings? Has some rust in the rockers and I think by the RR wheel well? It also has a sunroof and tan velour interior. I think it only sold for about $500 didn't it? or somewhere around there? I came VERY close to bidding on that one.
Thanks David
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_____________________________________________ 2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles 1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles _____________________________________________ |
#41
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I have looked at almost all of those in the links. The black one in Chicago is an over-priced rust bucket. I can't afford a $3k one in CA that takes another $1k just to get it here. That last one in Detroit would be nice if it were $3k cheaper...Mark would really like that one since it has the floor shift he'd love to have!
Thanks David P.S. I talked with a forum member via email and I think I'm going to go through with this blue one. So long as the rust is just what's pictured. He said the PO said it was there from a leaking windshield gasket, but doesn't know if it leaks because he's kept it in a garage. He said the windshield seal doesn't look as if it has been replaced. I spoke with him on the phone and he assured absolutely no rust in the trunk or elsewhere.
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_____________________________________________ 2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles 1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles _____________________________________________ |
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Hi David -
Actually it was $722. I talked to the seller today and he has mailed me the Title, so I'll have it in a couple of weeks. I thought it was a deal I could'nt refuse - sort of a Fintail rescue mission. I may need a new motor or maybe I can just replace bearings if thats what it is. The seller also said it has a NOS interior for about 2 yrs ago. A mechanic told him that the engine was making bearing noise, so he quit driving it about a year ago. There is only 2 rust spots, so I am curious to see where this will take me. I plan to drop the car off at a members place in WNY where we will decide what to do. He has a spare engine and hid dad was a MB mechanic. What do you think?
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1961 220SB Hydrak 1966 230S - Too Good for Parts 1981 300SD - now in Oakville |
#43
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Well, I just spoke with the seller and we got to talking about different things and brakes came up...
He said it has a pretty stiff pedal. He says it's adequate but you have to press hard to stop. He said he drove it 100 miles from his dad's. Do you guys have any suggestions on what might cause that? Obviously vacuum something, but to these boosters require much work? He's going to check in the morning for a vacuum line, but he said he didn't know it had assisted brakes. This car will definitely keep me busy for awhile. Thanks David
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_____________________________________________ 2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles 1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles _____________________________________________ |
#44
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David,
I thought I'd respond to both of your latest questions here to save time. The brakes on that 220S, use a separate power brake servo unit mounted on the left fenderwell, near the radiator. If it's failed, a new ATE OE replacement will be very expensive, assuming it's still availible. I have seen them on Ebay once or twice. There are outfits that can rebuild the old one and there's an American made aftermarket servo availible for around $250. As for installing 6 x 9 speakers in the rear shelf, neither my Ponton nor my Fintail have factory speaker cutouts. My '72 250 DOES have speaker holes in the rear shelf, but with a second steel panel below those speakers to isolate them from the trunk space. I was reluctant to cut speaker holes because I felt that Mercedes had engineered the solid panel behind the seats as both a body reinforcement and a firewall. Besides, I think most modern 6 x 9 speaker grills look like crap. I found a way to have decent rear speakers without cutting holes, or inviting thieves. That 100 watt amp I mentioned in the audio thread is driving a pair of cube or box speakers, mounted on my rear floor. I'm using an old pair of Japanese Kracos that I found at a yard sale, many years ago. They're 2-way speakers, sealed in heavy plastic cases and rated at 50 watts each. If you want to try something similar, Radio Shack has heavier modern RCA variations of these speakers, which they used to sell under their 'Optimus' label. They have nice, heavy cast aluminum cases, are availible in black or white and are rated at 100 watts each. I don't have stereo speakers in front yet but would consider mounting a pair, out of sight, in the underdash cardboard covers. Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 12-10-2004 at 06:08 PM. |
#45
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Save more money, get a better car.
If a "Perfect" Fintail is out of your price range, save up some more money so you can go after the perfect ones. Don't expect to get a bargain that "needs nothing", because cars this old that haven't been maintained are going to need dollars thrown at them immediately. If you plan on keeping the car for a while, buy the best one available, and save yourself a lot of problems later!
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