Yes I know it's been covered, but I've received conflicting info and wanted to check.

150g for BOTH front wheels? My mechanic gave me 2 tubes of MB grease to do the front wheels. He said one tube for EACH wheel.

Each tube is about the size of a tube of toothpaste. The amount of grease that was in the hubs when I took em off was about that much in each wheel; lots buttered in the inside of the hub. The bearings seemed to be in good shape considering the 150,000 mi. on that pack job.

The manual says 70g per wheel. I've read the warnings about over greasing.




Also, do you replace bearings as a set or is one at a time okay?

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63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6

I would think you can just replace one at a time. However, why would one need replacing? I've heard they rarely go bad on their own, usually they wear out when people start messing with repacks, etc. I do know that if they have pits, etc. then they're trash.
Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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There is a crack in the race for the outer bearing. I was reading a post and Kestas said to replace them as a set. I think some people just do one at a time though. I already bought a set. . .

__________________
63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6

Do the set, they rarely fail only one at a time -- a bad one gets hot, melts the grease, and the crud from the bad one migates into the good one, you know what happens next.

Iv'e been told to fill the hub with grease after greasing the bearings, leaving the hole in the middle completely free, with only a dab in the cap. The grease in the hub and cap are only there to re-grease the bearings if they get hot -- the stuff in there will spin out, but the "extra" will also melt a bit and run in to replace it.

If you use a knife to fill the hub, it takes just about 60gr of grease.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Do you have any tricks for getting the old race out? There is barely any lip to grab onto. A chisel or punch just slips off.

A machine shop quoted about $50 to do it.

Thanks.

edit> Doing some more searches. I'll check Napa tomorrow see if they loan a tool set for doing the races.

Also, psfred, what do you mean by the hole in the center.

__________________
63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6

Yeah, BTDT.

Get a cheap mild steel punch, not a hardened one, and grind the end completely square. The edge will grab enough to drive the blasted race out far enough to get a good bite on it. Probably have to grind it flat again for the other side.

MB , naturally, makes a special tool for this, but a plain steel punch works fine. Use a 3/8" or larger.

Note that SKF bearings fit better than Timken. Timken is what you usually get at the McParts stores, but SKF is what you get from FastLane or anyone else using WorldPac. They don't fit so tight, and are much easier to get in and out.

Make SURE the race is completely seated on a CLEAN hub -- drive it down with the punch, "walking" around the race, until it rings with a clear note when you give it a good whack, otherwise the bearings end up too loose.

Outer race is easier than the inner, I think.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I use a large socket, mounted upside down on a 1/2 inch extension bar. The edge of the socket gets a reasonable grip on the lip of the race. Works good and requires no grinding.

27mm too small, 28 too big. Same for SAE
So, took it to a machinist. A few bucks but he gave me the tool he made on the lathe and a couple of glow plugs!
It was the outer race which was impossible to do myself.

I buddy of mine came over to help with the bearing installation. Everything was cool but one thing. Grease quantity in the hub. On the side he showed me, basically there was grease packed into the bearing and THAT's IT. He works on race cars and said the 70g was way overkill unless you plan on driving through mud bogs or huge puddles. (Nearly pissed himself laughing at the radio static suppressor) I did the other side myself and packed the bearings and filled the hub in strategic places with a good amount of grease. Not excessive though. Followed the Haynes and MB manual recommendations.

I'm considering taking off the other side and adding more grease. Also loctiting the rotor bolts and that side which he said was useless since it would just melt out, better to use anti-seize. I used loctite on my side.
We set the end play by feel.

I'm kind of thinking that the race car experience is towards frequent disassembly of parts. The long service interval of the MB brake disc inclines me to add more grease to that side. Getting the hub off with the bearings seated on the spindal and everything is really going to suck. Should I leave it alone and repack in 30-50,000 miles?

Thanks for reading the rambling. If you have any suggestions, thank you very much.

BTW, ended up replacing both sets. SKF on one side and KOYO's which were in a Laso box on the other.

__________________
63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6

Locktite on the rotor bolts is fine, if they get hot enough to melt it, you won't be driving it again before replacing the rotors anyway! Ditto for grease....

Less is better than too much grease, but you do need some in the hub cavity in case the brakes get really hot, else you may end up with none on the bearings. Ditto for packing, you don't need to stuff them completely chock full, it won't circulate and you can end up with unlubricated rollers sitting with hard grease in between them!

If this is one of the older cars, you will have to re-pack when you change the rotors anyway, about 60,000 miles or so.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Sorry, I did not explain my technique well enough. The socket does not need to fit perfectly all the way around the race. (It's fine if you have a socket that does fit perfectly.) The socket size is not that important. You get a good "purchase" on the race lip, apply the hammer, then move the socket to the opposite side of the race. Repeat the process, keeping the race even as you knock it out. Same process as using a punch, but the socket has a larger contact area.