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#1
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Opportunity to buy a 230S
There's a dealer not too far from my house that has a MB 230S for sale. I haven't talked to anyone about it yet but it definitely looks like a classic MB. Can anyone tell me anything about these cars? What years were they made? It looks like it's from the 1960's because it sort of has fins over the rear fenders. It doesn't look like it's in too bad of shape.
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#2
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Mercedes 'Fintail' sedans were produced from 1959 to 1968, in numerous 4 and 6 cylinder variations. The 230S is perhaps the best developed of the 6 cylinder Fintails, with better brakes, seatbelts and a slightly larger engine than the early versions. By then, power steering and AC were common options. However, by the late '60s, the Fintail S-class was no longer Mercedes 'top of the line' sedan, so fuel injection was no longer availible and interiors were less fancy.
Mercedes '60s automatics are often rough-shifting and hamper performance, so I prefer a stick-shift in these cars. If this car is automatic, test drive, then decide for yourself. When you drive it, pay attention to the oil pressure guage. After warmup, it should read above 10-15 at idle and quickly go to max once the car is moving. Blue smoke on startup is common but if it goes away after warmup and the oil pressue is OK, I wouldn't worry too much. Just be resigned to checking oil and adding oil regularly if you buy it. The twin carburetors are often tempermental but I feel they can be easier and cheaper for a knowledgable owner to deal with than the earlier fuel injection systems. Biggest problem with any old Mercedes is RUST, RUST, RUST! There are lots of patched up rustbuckets with pretty paint jobs out there. I recommend you check this car over for body filler with a magnet and get it on a Mechanics lift to see if the underbelly has been patched and if any frame/suspension connections look scary - in particular, the rear axle trailing arm mounts below the back seat area and the front crossmember to body supporting spring-mounts just behind the radiator. Other lesser rust issues - the hollow crossmember that the front bumper is bolted to may be crumbling and the jacking ports on the rocker panels may bend or collapse if you try to use the jack. The front fender 'eyebrows' above the headlights often rust out. If the fenders on this car still look nice, reach up through the wheel opening and see if there's big lumps of filler in the crevice between the top and side of the headlight bucket and fender. Some rust should be good for a price reduction. Major rust you should walk away from! Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 12-15-2004 at 01:56 PM. |
#3
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If you decide not to purchase it, could you share the location, condition, and price if you go to look at it and turn it down? Some of us are getting pretty desperate...
Thanks David
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_____________________________________________ 2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles 1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles _____________________________________________ |
#4
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Mark has given a very good summary. Finding one with a minimal amount of rust is always a problem. Also check inside the trunk for rust. Other issues could be leaking windshield seals which may cause a water leak and rust inside the car - ie floor. The car is a uni-body construction - no full frame, just subframes. So if there is rust in the under body, it may affect the integrity of the structure.
Good luck and let us know what you do.
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1961 220SB Hydrak 1966 230S - Too Good for Parts 1981 300SD - now in Oakville |
#5
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I've owner two fintains, that were drivable, and both were automatics. Yes, the shift if rough, but I disagree with Mark's observation that this hampers performance. If anything, the strong shifts allowed power to flow quickly between shifts. After all, the Germans at the time prefered manual transmissions and needed to know what a shift had occured. The fluid coupling also kept power losses to a minimum. I think a torque converted would have been better for North America.
IMHO.
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Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
#6
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I owned a '66 Fintail 230 automatic and it wasn't the harsh shifts that hampered performance, but the fact that the early Mercedes automatics, like the one in my 230, always started out in second gear, unless one either manually downshifted or floored the gas pedal to the kickdown switch. The automatic in my '72 250 sedan was smoother shifting and it DID start out in first gear, but like the one in my 230, it would sometimes upshift or downshift or delay shifting, when I would have prefered otherwise.
In all fairness, the automatic in my Mom's '70 250 sedan performed much better than either of mine, but that was 24 years ago, when her car was only 10 years old. Remember, in a 230S Fintail, you're now expecting decent performance from an automatic that's nearly 40 years old. I didn't mind the harsh shifts in my old 230, but others may disagree, hence my suggestion to "test drive, then decide for yourself". Today, I prefer the manual-shift in my Fintail, so that I can 'decide for myself' what gear to be in. Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 12-15-2004 at 01:51 AM. |
#7
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Mark, you're so right. I forgot about the 2nd gear start, like my 300SE. I long for a 1st gear start, if only momentarily.
I also prefer manual transmissions. I'm thinking about a Ford Mustand T5 trans in my Volvo 960.
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Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
#8
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