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Old 12-20-2004, 09:23 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Flyover State
Posts: 1,364
It Rides Again!!!! 115 w/new front end

Well folks, I took a maiden voyage around the driveway without brakes this evening in the 300D. The nose of the car is WAY up in the air, something has to be wrong. Of course, all the rubber in the back needs to be replaced. Two possibilities are that I snugged the upper and lower control arm bolts with the jacks resting under the control arms. Thing is, that isn't the outer most point and maybe with the weight distributed on the tires and loosening and retightening the bolts might relieve the tension in a good way. The other bad scenario is that the spring pads I got from the dealer were incorrect. Given the welding of the subframe coming up, one LCA needs to be pulled so it wouldn't be that bad to do the other.

Another problem is when rebuilding one of the calipers, the piston on one side was very difficult to push into the bore. I thought I cleaned everything up well and used an ATE seal kit and Raybestos caliper lube, applied liberally. Doesn't seem likely that piston would float back when the brakes are released.

Thanks for all the help getting this far! More needs to be done before it is road worthy. . .

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63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6
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Old 12-21-2004, 12:38 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Raleigh, NC currently residing in KL, Malaysia
Posts: 460
Hello,
Best would be to place the car on the ground and place a couple of bags of cement or any other ballast on the front fenders, then loosen bolts, bounce the car and retighten bolts.
You could always get a couple of heavy neighbours to sit on the fenders for the same effect
The crack on the control arm tab, is it IN the tab area or around the factory welding?
I am asking because my 107 was grounded once and the lower arm's rear tab was bent back, it was gently heated and moved back into position, no problems since
Have a good week and holidays

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