The injection pump is probably gummed up because of old fuel.

The injection pump has an engine driven cam in the bottom acting on plungers above it. The fuel is let into the IP cylinders and then pressurized because the plunger is forced up by the cam and atomized by the injection nozzles. There are alo two fuel dampers before and after the injection pump fuel supply.

How did you determine that no fuel is coming out of the injection pump?

These pumps are precision devices and need to be properly rebuilt. Do a search in the vintage forum.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Based on how long the car sat and where you live, I kinda figured the rack was frozen. You can test it by inserting a screwdriver, punch or something into the hole in the front of the pump. The hole may have a rubber cover on it. You should be able to push the rack back with slight resistance. The rack should return on its own and you should be able to push it back again and again. If this doesn't happen, it is still not the end of the world. You can remove the injection lines, unscrew the fittings the lines connect to and remove the bleed back elements. These have screw threads on them. There is a special tool to do this, but you can find a nut that screws onto the threads and braze a little handle to the nut. Yank the elements out, and while someone cranks the engine watch all six little pistons(they are called helixes) go up and down just like car pistons. If you see that some or all don't do that, squirt a high quality penetrant into the holes. Don't waste time with WD39 and a half. Be patient and let it set for a day or two. If nothing happens you can take a tiny punch and a very very small hammer and tap down on the pistons to break them loose. I'll tell you a funny story. Many years ago I ran into this problem. I had one stuck piston and did exactly what I'm telling you. A couple of days of soaking later I was working on another car, and the shop was quiet. I heard this thunk. I checked the pump, and the helix had popped free.

Good luck,
Peter

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The rack Peter mentioned has a threaded hole in the front end of it that you can screw in a test screw.. you need a 5mm X 1-1/2" long screw and you screw it into the threads at the front of the rack..[ remove access port].. you can then pull/push the rack with the screw tool... You know it is free when you move it and it returns to its normal position by itself..
The pump piston get raised by the cam, but when they are gummed up, they do not return back down for the next fuel cycle..a good cleaning is what is needed

here is a good article on these interior parts on another group I frequent that uses the same pump.. that will give you some good pictoral info..

http://www.sl113.org/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=790&SearchTerms=injection,tour

Art,
Those first two pics should help immensely. It is hard to explain these pumps verbally. You are bringing back old memories of the hours I spent setting up the black and white screws in the field. What a PITA that was. I have the 113 site on bookmark but never really go there. I'm going to have to drag my 67 230SL out of storage this year and start driving it again. It's been about 10 years. I also have an engine out 71 280SL restoration that I've never finished. I guess if I did something else for a living, working on these cars would be a good hobby.

Peter

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Peter.
A 230sl.. cool.
Get it goin'..
I have a small collection of 113s and a 121 . My 250sl is Euro stick and is my favorite [ it's a driver and have owned it fir many years, so that is why I prefer it ]..
I visit that 113 group on a tech basis, but don't have much time for the meets and such they have..quite a good site for 113 guys..
These mechanical FIs are a marvel of engineering and I know what you mean with the blk and wht adjusters.. I have played with several with a gas anylyzer and have it down pretty good , even by ear.
Several of the locals have me do them up for them and it is always a pleasure to get them tweaked in
Tnx for the reply......

A Dalton

Peter, Arthur et al.,

Thanks for the info especially the pic's they clear up a few questions. I believe there is a 10mm hex head screw covering the access to the rack on my pump, (as described in the 113 website pic.). I was hesitant to remove it without more info but will give it another try asap.

Once again thanks for your guidance, as you can tell I am a novice and without your help I'd be hard pressed to get this car running.

Mike

Those are incredible pictures. The FI pump is truely a mechanical, or analog, computer.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Sure is a nice piece of work.. good time to start grabbing these off junkers cuz they are starting to get valuable...specially the early [R-18y and older ]with seperate oil resevoirs..

Warren,
You hit the nail on the head as they say. It really is an analog computer. If anybody ever wondered how the U.S. Navy cotrolled targeting of the guns once they passed the firing on the up roll era, it was done with a Mark 1A computer. This was a big box filled with gears, cams, levers, and balls rolling on discs. Although the Bosch mech inj pump is not quite as sophisticated, it does use fly weights, levers, gears, and something called a 3 demensional cam. If you ever held one of these in your hand, you would swear someone beat the crap out of it for several hours with a ball peen hammer, but it was designed that way.

Mike,
You can remove the side cover of your pump for a look see, but DO NOT LOOSEN ANY OF THE SCREWS INSIDE.

Peter

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