67 250sec brakes

[grezm0nkey]

hey everyone. got this whirling noise from the left rear when driving. took the time to pull the wheel off and check. found the caliper seals dry rotted. rotor looks ok, but plan to change anyway. i am still not usre if the noise is from calpipers or possible axle. pulled on the axle to see, axle pulls in and out, guesstimating 1/8". not sure if thats a good allowence. put it all back and now looking for a caliper rebuild kit or maybe a rebuild shop.

has anyone had experience with rebuilding brakes themselves? what does a kit go for and how difficult would it be to service? i live in long beach CA. anyone know a shop in the area?

thanks in advance for your replies.........grez

[autozen]

When you say caliper seals I assume you are talking about the dust boots that merely keep crud out of the caliper. If both pads are worn equally and you can push the pistons back in with a big pair of pliers,and there is no visible wettness, the caliper is fine. I think you have a wheel bearing going South. If the caliper is trully frozen, I'd just get another good used one from pic n pull. That same caliper was used on many models for many years. You don't have to look for a coupe, and since you live in Calif. you should have good pickens.

Peter

[grezm0nkey]

i tried to pry the pistons back, but it didnt. how would i know if they are froze? maybe set it up on stands, spin the wheel and brake check?

caliper is dry, pads have alittle meat, 1/8". might be wheel bearings, but not sure i can do that without some special tool.

car also dies when engine is warmed up. starts cold ok, warmed up to 180 and the engine starts to sputter, letting it run longer and it dies. not sure if its the coil or something electrical.

grez

[autozen]

If you can't force the pistons back into their bores, the caliper must be frozen. You need to get a used or rebuilt unit. Replacing the wheel bearing isn't that big a deal. You supposedly need a special tool to remove the old bearing, but a machine shop should be able to do it. If they can't, you can make your own tool for under $100.

It is hard to diagnose the no operating temp running situation on the internet. You might try adjusting the idle air screw on the manifold. During warm up the engine draws extra air from the little filter on the inj pump. After warm up a thermostat shuts off this filter and the only air is supplied from the intake manifold. There are myriad possibilities, but I can't do it from here.

Peter

[grezm0nkey]

i made adjustments to the idle air screw, both hi and low no help. made minor distributor adjustment after marking original position, no help. did not know there is a filter on injection pump, where would i find it? i thought it might be a failing coil and felt it for temp. coil is hot, but not sure how hot a coil gets when reaching operating temp. maybe the coil faults a low spark when heated? also made another check of the points and gap, but have no idea how to do the dwell.

the axle noise goes away when applying brakes and coming to a slower speed. this thing still boogles me.

grez

[autozen]

Unless yours is missing, the little filter screws onto the top back of the pump. It takes a 22 or 24mm wrench IIRC. Remove the filter and blow through it. there should be no resistance. Start the car with the filter off and put your finger on the hole. It should be sucking air. Once trhe car is at operating temp, it should close and not draw anymore air.

Peter

[grezm0nkey]

found the filter on the fuel pump. didnt check yet, but will soon. took this weekend and installed a fireball xr700 points conversion. took me an afternoon to wire it in and install, fired up on the first try. talk about crap in the pants. had a rough run at first. fondled the adjust till she purrs at 900-1000 rpm and tweeked the fuel. she was burning rich and sputtered. now i just need a time light and and dial her in. she alittle off the power but smooth. noticed the temp runs much cooler too after fuel tweek. noticed the spark plugs white when i removed to set TDC on #1.

drove by a garage in my area when testing the car out. stopped and gave the boss a test drive to figure noise in rear. thought i might had been brakes but proven wrong. points to bearings on right rear. wheel shaking shows wheel has play on both vertical and horizontal. boss also made the whirl come and go when rolling car left and right when driving. left turns make noise and right turn makes it go away. funny.

he also checked the tranny mount. anyone have an idea how much the tranny will lift from the mount if you pryed it upwards? i can get maybe 2 inches of play up and down on the tranny mount.

next up is wheel bearing replace. i hope its not that bad and its the fix. cheers.

grez