Hey all, I should be hanging out around here pretty often from here on, as I'll be (hopefully) picking up my new car this Wednesday. For a more detailed (but not by all that much) description of the car and my purchase, follow this link.

First of all, I've been an M-B fan since before I can remember. My family has had quite a few during those fun internet boom days, including an SL500 La Costa (the only one I ever saw with factory xenons), Brabus CLK, and an ML55 AMG, but now I finally get to jump in the boat with one that I get to call my own.

Anyways, as you can tell if you followed the above link, it's a black on black '62 220S. The body's pretty straight, but I have no clue how much of it consists of Bondo. The interior is brand new, with pleather seats instead of the real thing, but that is about the only thing on the car that won't require fixing.

The things that are irking me a bit are the turn signals. The left one works, albeit ever so slowly, while the right doesn't. The service tech at the place that I'm buying it from says that I need to buy a new turn signal switch, even though my signed list of things they need to do (and pay for) includes fixing all lamps and signals. I don't mind finding a switch for him to install though, just as long as they're following through on their contractual (read: monetary) obligations.

Another problem, the biggest in my opinion, are the locks. They've given me two keys to the car. One for the ignition, and one for all the locks. The one for the locks has as much use now as it did before it was cut. The one for the ignition works only in the ignition and the driver's door, leading me to believe that I may as well pull an Al Bundy and use a screwdriver for the doors instead. The due bill (the paper the dealer and I signed listing out the stuff that they need to fix before I take delivery) includes fixing all the locks as well, but I think that I may need to keep on top of them so that they don't do some shabby job. Some research has led me to believe that I'm supposed to have three keys; one for the ignition, one for the doors and gas tank, and one for the trunk and glove box. Is this true? Can the local Mercedes dealer get these keys for me, or should I have a locksmith make new locks and keys? By the way, I still haven't seen the inside of the trunk or glovebox yet, so if there's a dead body in there when it gets unlocked, I don't think I'll have a new car come Wednesday.

Finally, I have noticed that a few bits are missing here and there around the car. The most notable are two small holes, one each a few inches to each side of the grille, that I'm guessing used to be used for the mounting of some lamps. Also missing is the radio antenna, and, as I'm sure I'll find later, extra parts here and there. I'd like to find a place where I can buy more parts. Ebay of course comes to mind, but what about that little part that I may need that isn't on Ebay at the time? The online vintage M-B parts stores that I've tried so far really haven't had anything. The best thing I've found so far was a shop manual to the Zenith carbs, and that was a free .pdf file.

Anyways, thanks for taking your time to read this. If you have any questions, comment, solutions, flames, or anything else, please post! I look forward to becoming a part of this board!

edited for more precise details

Bravo your choice in cars, arguably the Heckflosse 220Sb - part by part - comprises the finest craftsmanship in all its hand assembled components of ANY car EVER built!

Take the existing turn signals apart and a pencil eraser should help to clean the contacts and revive operation. You can even bend the lead contact against the brushes for tighter electrical connection after the switch has been dissassembed. And you should clean the magnets too.

Graphite Dust is the best for smoothing out the locks after shooting em out with non-residue fast evaporating aerosol like electric parts cleaner. Originally the car came with a pink 'owners card' that listed key number codes for cutting new keys. If this card has been lost MB will NOT tell you what the key numbers are - a question of security - the finbody key code has never been broken.

Btw, dealership requires proof of ownership, VIN#'s, etc before they can contact Stuttgart archives to retrieve the original codes for their own use at cutting a fresh set of keys for you. If they are too damned lazy to follow up on this, kick em in the ass.

3 keys:
1) small round headed key for glove box and gas tank
2) ignition key for driver's door and to start the car
3) ignition key for driver's and passenger's doors plus the trunk and to start the car

And another amazing feature from later finbody lore is FIBER OPTICS that illuminate the heater controls using the speedo binnacle bulbs. Dunno if they had this in '62, but it was a kick to clean the fiber ends and plastic heat lever inserts on my '65 Sb long time ago..

And check for wire leads going to the driving light mounting holes. These should be operative from the light switch, same as always - if you arent aware of this already.

What's the color scheme on this car.... black on red, grey on red or what? It would be great to see some pics.

__________________
'80 300SD/ w116
'79 240D 4-spd
'71 750cc Guzzi

previously owned:

'83 240D 4-spd
'77 280SEL 4-spd
'74 280/8
'72 250/8
'65 220Sb 4-spd
'63 220Sb 4-spd
'63 190c 4-spd
'61 220Sb 4-spd
'60 190b 4-spd

The turn signal flasher module probably needs to be replaced. The ignition key only works for the ignition. There is a key for the doors and trunk and a seperate one for the glove box.

The wood is real so be careful when refinishing it.

http://www.heckflosse.nl/

http://www.heckflosse.nl/History.htm

http://www.heckflosse.nl/wheel4.htm

http://www.heckflosse.nl/prod4.htm

etc

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

had trouble with my lights too. i pulled the assembly out and cleaned all the terminals and sockets with an old brillo pad. its soft enough to clean oxidized contacts. use contact cleaner on a q tip after.

first question is how far do u want to bring the car? full resto, half nice or hop in and go? in either case i would decide if u going to wait for the dealer to fix or u. with having said. i did searches online for salvage yards and sent my vin to MB. got a faxed build sheet, just for kicks, and started to fix.

i cant mention too much on keys and locks. i tried to find door key but no good. i got 2 ignition keys no problem. went to MB and they wanted something crazy like 800, right....its in the car, ill be back.

i have to admit i love the car regardless. i hope u find great pleasure in ur ride.

grez

Good afternoon!!

Glad to see someone else is interested in these. Hardly any around running here in Michigan. I don't know of but one other here in S/E MI.

I have a'65 220Sb with 582,000 miles on it. With Zeniths, they run great as does the car. It runs so well I'm afraid to punch it too much for fear I'll pop the prop shaft bearings. I hope yours turns out just as well.

Where did you find the .pdf of the Zenith carbs??

Maybe I can help you with a lot of things relating to my 65 that ought to transfer over to yours via this medium. I see lots of comments, pro & con. Consider the fun things with most interest.

Keys: The Ignition is specifically for that alone. Door keys were supposed to fit them, glove box & trunk. A third key was for the locking gas cap. There were replacement MB door handle kits that included the matched key in past years, obsoleted out now. Lock-Ease from the hardware store may help you with the door & trunk. Sounds like though, the "door" key may have been lost and both handles replaced witheir own key. Therefore this does not match the trunk. If so you can go in there thru the back seat and take out the lock/button and rework it.

If you're real handy, you can pull both door handles off via one screw each and rework those. The glove box, you may have to pick. It too is a wafer tumbler design.

MB dealers are supposed to be able to provide "lock service" if you approach it correctly. The facility they use just moved from the East coast to Texas. If you provide the VIN number with your name on a copy of the vehicle title you will be able to request and probably receive the key codes for the whole car. No charge. They may have to request this from the handwritten reords in Germany. If so expect 8-12 weeks for the info. This for you to get the keys cut locally at your expense. MB - Texas will cut keys for you at about $14 ea for the small ones & I forgot what the Ign one is but it's about $25-30.

In addition, if you are REAL handy you can dis-assemble the locks & cylinders & refurbish them. You probably won't find anyone who will have a blank, no less sell it to you so you may have to make your own from similar or the ones you have. When you have the mechanism apart, the secret is that the cylinder is marked with the key code!! If you bring that no. to MB they will make you a key to fit. Be careful in cyphering the code no. because it will be written in European handwriting which is different than US. IE: 1's look like 7's. If you do this, it's really a great feeling to speak of how you personnaly made the keys.

Parts: LOtsa stuff here on the web. Try a Hemmings. In the back, MB cars & Parts. Lots of suppliers, some I'll bet are local.

Join the Mercedes Benz Club of America, MBCA, local section. There will be more than one local person who I'll bet will come over to help ya'.

Turn signals: Too many responders missed the boat on this one. The two holes in the front of the car are where the Park/Turn signal Lamp assemblies used to be. The lights ain't gonna blink if they are not there!! The slow blink means there is on side of rear turns working, ( two lamps or one depending on which assembly you have as I recall). The no blink side is probably that no rear bulbs are working. Could be that the bulbs are bad, the rectangular black assembly electrical connector is corroded, the sockets in the assembly are corroded, or a combination of these. Take note too that the blinker unit is of a real old design and probably works best depending on the phase of the moon & blinker's monthly cycle. It is very easily replaced with a two pin two bulb flasher unit. Available at the XYZ Auto parts places. Just make sure you plug it into the right holes, or BBBBZZZZZTTTTT!!!!

Time to went, check with you later, Enjoy the ride!!! Lotsa kids will stare & point!! Hope yours still has the big ole MB oem horns!! Sounds like aChessie locomotive commin' down the road!!