Hey all! My set of bilstein Heavy Duty shocks came in. I just tore out my front shocks, but Im having trouble getting the two bolts on the lower portion of the front shocks to go through the holes in the control arm. Any tips? Its getting me all pissed off because the holes will line up perfectly, but not go in. This is my first experience doing anything major on my mercedes, after all I am 17.

Note on mechanics, they suck! I took my car to a mechanic whom I will not name in Tampa Bay. He quoted me almost $900 for the shocks alone and said I didn't need them! Well funny thing is my front right shock was completely snapped in half, thats right the piston broke off. Its safe to say I spent $310 and bought the parts myself. I will NEVER take my car to a mechanic, only a body shop.

-Keenan
1973 280sel 4.5 litre
riviera blue exterior/dark blue MB tex interior.

Drill the holes in the lower control arm a little larger.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

The shock's lower mount plate has to be at a slight angle to go in properly. It has to be squared up with the lower control arm which isn't at a 90° angle with the ground. If you have the angle off too far, it won't go in. This could be why!

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Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

When replacing my front shocks, I had soooo much debris built up on the lower control arm. Scrape the dirt, sand and other junk out of there, clean things up -- should be enough room if you've got the correct shock.

The real trick will be tightening the top nut. It can be tightened into oblivion, many folks count the number of exposed threads on the old shocks and tighten new shocks the same amount.

That's true, be careful of the top nut, tightening it too far could compromise your comfort.

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1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi

On the top nut, tighten until the rubber bushings compress slightly, not much more.

Use a small wrench to hold the square-shaped top of the shock shaft, turn the nut with another wrench. Ratchet won't do you much good when the shock shaft sits there spinning.

should I try to get the top of the piston through the tower first, or try and get the two bolts on the bottom? Im putting the shock by going through the control arms on the right side, then going up. The problem is that the two screws refuse to go through, and the top piston needs to go down a good 1 1//2 inches in order to be put up the tower.

Easiest thing to do:

Jack the front end by the frame (not the control arms). Move the bottom mount bracket to be slightly angled to match the control arm. Compress the shock enough so that you can put it in squarely into the control arm, then once that's in, put the top shaft through the hole and let it go and uncompress. Then tighten and you're good to go!

I don't know how hard it is to compress a "Good" shock, mine are quite easy to compress.

__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

well Ill tell you this, I can bench press 315lbs, but when I try to compress the bilsteins they dont budge... gas shocks. I will try that though thank you!

-Keenan

Well atleast we all know you have the muscles to do this job, now do it. Use a rubber mallet to put the lower bolt through and plenty of lubricant of some sort. When tightening the top,make sure you hold the arm of the shock so it doesnt spin, I have heard that can wear it out or something.