When looking for parts, what years will coincide with each other? Is it 1960-63 190's that are closely the same?

If not can you tell me what are the differences?

I am suppose to take delivery this week of my 63 and they are saying that you must pull the clutch up with your hand, any ideas?

Thanks for the knowledge

From your description, it sounds like the hose is kinked. Perhaps the mechanic replaced the clutch slave cylinder and bolted it to the bellhousing causing the hose to compress.

It may also be a missing spring or the hose itself needs to be replaced.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

in my experience a good start is to look at the slave,master cyl for leaks. if i find a leaky cyl it gets replaced.
the rubber line attached to the slave cyl will close up from the inside,if in question,open the bleeder on the slave and see if fluid leaks out,if reservoir is full and no fluid then the hose could be closed off.
the best way i found to charge the system is to attach a hose to the slave cyl bleeder,open bleeder,use a hand pressure pump filled with dot 5.1(my choice for all brake fluid)pump fluid in reverse till all air is gone.
larry perkins
69 old cars

You are taking delivery on Vintage 110 without having driven or seen the car? Must be scared to death.

Bad news is that MB used FIVE different subcontractors to build clutch pressure plate, disc and bearing combos for the 110. They started with series of coil springs, then went to covered and shimmed coil springs and finally diaphragm 'leaf' style springs for the pressure plate.

110 was the first mass produced MB that covered the globe. Maybe 3rd world taxi drivers rode the clutch and caused panic at keeping parts on the shelf.

But if the pedal just goes dead to the floor, then I'd be thinking hydraulics same as others above. Save the fittings and find a hosing shop to replace just the lines for starters. And maybe do brake lines at the same time.

Toughest part will be dealing with rusty nuts'n bolts...... marinate them with penetrating oil.

On the clutch, the first place I'd look would be air in the system due to loss of fluid. If it hasn't been done recently, it would also be a good idea to replace the flexible rubber hose to the slave cylinder as it can fail and plug up internally, =hile still looking OK on the outside. Same goes for the rubber brake hoses.
On my '60 Fintail 220S, after I installed a missing return spring to my slave cylinder, my clutch pedal started needing pumping up after sitting overnight and ocasionally the pedal would stick to the floor after a long drive. I never saw any external fluid leaks so I suspected a slow internal leak in my clutch master cylinder. Removing that spring from my slave cylinder has 'fixed' the problem for now.

The W110 Fintail 190 cars were built from mid '61 to mid '65. They were replaced by the slightly updated W110 200 series, which had bigger 4-cylinder engines and squared-off taillights. Those continued into early '68. Many W110 parts will interchange, but there were continuos upgrades during the years they were in production, so as brakes were upgraded (from drum to disc to dual circuit) and engines updated (from 3-bearing 190 with single carb to 5-bearing 200 with twin carbs) and with other production changes in trim, equipment, etc... certain parts will be special.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

Just curious, how would that 4 cylinder engine compare with say, the turbocharged 5 cylinder diesel?

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1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi

Fintail four-cylinders ranged from 80 to 95 HP (DIN) for the gassers and 55 to 65 HP for the diesels, while the W123 300D's 5 cylinder turbo-diesel was rated at around 120 (Don't have the exact 300D figures handy) Acceleration and max speed figures for the 200 Fintails were around 15 seconds to 100 kmph (62 mph) / 100 mph for the gasser and 30 seconds / 80 mph on the diesel. I don't have performance figures for the W123 300D, however, compared to the Fintails, the 300D was several hundred pounds heavier and all US versions were sold with power-robbing automatic transmissions.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

I am scared but the car seems to be pretty solid. Ididnt pay a whole lot for it and hope to have gotten a good deal. The hauler says you have to pull the pedal back up after pressing it or wait a long time for it to come back up. Also its driveable so that makes it a little more interesting considering the news I am initially hearing.

Should be great. I will post some pics as soon as I get it. Thanks for all the knowledge and I ll keep pickin your brain.

Thanks

I purchased a '65 190D this week and made my first attempt to start it today. The jumper cables would not cut it so I'm heading down there tomorrow with a battery. Starting it is an interesting concept. The glow plug light did come on and it would turn over but not very fast. It has been sitting for awhile and looks rough but the body is straight and solid with just surface rust. It will need a paint job.

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Jim

engatwork, I hadn't pegged you as a 190D owner

Good luck with it. I hope you live in a land of long freeway onramps.

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63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6