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  #1  
Old 04-27-2005, 09:12 AM
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72 250c

I am putting a wad of money in my pocked and going to look at a 72 250C within the week. Can I get some specifics on the areas that I need to look at before purchasing this car, or possibly a link to a post where it has been discussed before?
Thanks...phal


Last edited by phal; 04-27-2005 at 11:49 AM. Reason: adding info
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  #2  
Old 04-27-2005, 06:56 PM
300SDog's Avatar
gimme a low-tech 240D
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: central ky
Posts: 3,602
Just use the search engine < 250C > or < 114 Coupe > and use the Vintage Forum option.

Where's the car?

Maybe you want to schedule an expert appraisal (20 minutes or $20) with test drive and car on the lift at independent MB mechanic in the vacinity before you go to check it out.

If the seller balks at this idea, then walk away.
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  #3  
Old 04-27-2005, 09:17 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 5,318
Try to find one like this ...

Here is a really good car on ebay. Both CTH and I agreed on this. If I had time and garage space, I would buy this car. I have had six 250C's.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4544971974&category=6315&sspagename=WDVW

You can see how good the door gaps are, and how level the car sits, from the side shot. Notice how the front bumper is not bent up. Notice how the inner fenders match the exterior. The engine and its stuff is totally original. The exhaust has the twin tips. No cracks in the dash. Original seat belts and good interior.

Everything on these cars can be fixed except serious rust. Only exceptional cars have not rusted behind the rear wheel - this is not a huge deal. Other rust is a big deal.

Replacing the dash because of cracks is awful. If the heater blower does not work, the car is toast. It's a huge job and the likelihood of getting it right is miniimal.

If the carbs are screwed, then you will play Russian Roulette trying to find good used units, or pay an unbelievable amount of money to get new ones.

The trick with these cars is to not pay too much for what you get. They are not going up in value. There are a lot of them on the market and you need to be very particular if you are going to pay $4k+. Even though they are cheap to buy, parts are expensive and you can end up underwater very easily. Don't ask me how I know.
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Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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  #4  
Old 04-27-2005, 10:35 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4,356
bottom line is underside, rocker or firewall rust is fatal on the wallet.
Buy something that doesn't have it.

I presume your primary motivation isn't reliable, economical transportation, or you'd be buying a new to 3 year old car. I presume you're looking for something with class, style and grace. Unless it's a jalopie, go for no-rust, followed by passing inspection. There is a published CO% and H% spec, make sure it meets that. Being pretty never hurts either.

-CTH
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  #5  
Old 04-28-2005, 12:04 AM
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Location: Alexandria, Virginia
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Check the oil for gassy smell/dilution. Check the oil pressure guage after warmup, perferably with fresh oil.
I prefer hot oil pressure to read around 15 psi or higher, idling, and quickly reach max at anything significantly above idle speed.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #6  
Old 04-28-2005, 12:07 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Des Moines, WA
Posts: 927
I have a brutal but effective fix for heater fans. To be used only if you don't mind sawing bits off your car.

First I sawed the rain deflectors a bit so I could reach in from the top side and then sawed the old fan out, leaving the mounting ring. Then, I fiber glassed a 6" brushless 12VDC fan in place of the old fan and 'glassed the rain deflectors back together.

Ran for better than two years that way. Car was a rusted hulk of it's former self. Don't think I could do it to a nice car.

Michael
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Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120
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  #7  
Old 04-28-2005, 12:21 AM
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Location: Alexandria, Virginia
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I've replaced these heater blowers, first in my '72 250, 17 years ago and, most recently, on a neighbor's '72 220. It's a tedious job that takes about 2 days, without rushing. That first blower was $168, from Mercedes, but now it's over $400!
Unlike severe rust, for me a dead blower wouldn't kill a deal, but certainly use it for some serious negotiating.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #8  
Old 04-29-2005, 09:23 AM
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thanks

Thanks for all of the advice! If I make the purchase I will post photos...phal

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