After much work with the tech: Reseal transmission, replace rear main seal. rebuild gear box and power stearing box, replace transimmission mounts, all sub frame bushings and all hoses to the breaks and trannie. My car rides a bit high to me. Measured at the front, 25" from gound to center crome on fender.

Rear wheel 22 1/2 inches (a bit low?) , THE QUESTION: How do I adjust the hight of the air suspension? I know there are some arms but how are they to be adjusted?

I don't have the answer, but you could look here:

300SEL.com
6.3
tech pubs
air suspension troubleshooting

Low rear might mean a shot leveling valve for that end, but perhaps they are adjustable.

Also you could go to m-100.cc and search for that subject.

On a 6.9 the level valves on the hydropneumatic are adjustable when they are working right, but I can't say about the air supension. Hope this points you in the right direction.

Yes, there is an adjustment arm and I suppose that how you do the adjustment.

There are three adjustments. At the rear sway bar in the middle. Loosen the clamp bolts on the sway bar, make the adjustment. properly support the car as you can be crushed.

At the front, adjust the length of the short arm to the leveling valves.

This is very important, when jacking up the car, pull out the air suspension control valve under the dash on the drivers side.

http://www.300sel.com/contact/contindx.html

http://www.300sel.com/contact/contindx.html

The tank under the drivers side fender must also be drained.

Read the owners guide on the air suspension procedures.

Gerryvz and Dan Smith has written many posts on the air suspension.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Yes, the rear leveling valve is adjustable via a small arm. You need to be BLOODY careful when doing this while under the car. The best thing to do would be to make the adjustment while on a drive-on lift or in a pit, so that you can get underneath the car without the danger of having it come down on you if you misadjust it.

Cheers,
Gerry

Thank you>again.

As others said, do this in a way that you are not in the newspapers. Bad for the model's rep. This is easy to do at home. Use 2 by 8 or 2 by 6 boards and rive the 6.3 oto them. Enough, so if it goes all the way down, you are safe. I do this not for safty but just to make more room.
You need two 10 m open end wrenches. If you can change a battery, you can do this. If it pops off the control arm, (because of a mechanic's (this is you) slip, put it back on with the large tool kit pliers. Easy, very easy deal.
Rear is a sinch. The fronts slightly tougher only because of room. Move the steering whell to make the room on either the right or left fronts. Then do the oher side. Get he front correct first, then do the rear valve.
Dan in Oregon

On the adjustment.....................twist in for greater height? Out for lower?