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  #1  
Old 06-06-2005, 04:26 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 212
removing ignition switch w111

Hi again,
How do I go about removing the ignition switch on the 250sec? It feels like it is all falling apart back there and I need to get to it so I can see. As I understand it, it is the type with the older style 5 screw fittings (?) That is what the guy at the parts shop said when looking up my vin#.

Thanks again,
opossum

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German autos!!!
'67 250se coupe
'89 190e 2.6
'05 BMW x5
'59 0319 diesel Omnibus.
Italian bikes!!!
'64 Lambretta Special 185 hot rod scooter
'66 Lambretta SX200
'59 Lambretta 250 race bike
'70 Lambretta GP200
'77 860gt ducati
'66 ducati monza
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  #2  
Old 06-06-2005, 06:03 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 5,480
I just did this on a '66 250S. This will be a good test of your toolkit versatility and manual dexterity in confined spaces.
First disconnect the battery. On the W108 250S, the whole instrument cluster comes out, but on the W111 coupe, I believe just the speedometer needs to be removed. From under the dash, you may need to reach up and remove a knurled plastic or aluminum thumb-nut to release the speedometer. Then it should clear the dash far enough to be able to unscrew the speedometer cable. Through the dash-hole vacated by the speedometer, you'll need to use a stubby or offset screwdriver to remove the 3 slotted screws that hold the ignition switch to the back of the steering lock. Once the switch is free of the lock, you can manouever the switch in the hole to remove the 5 philips screws and release the wiring. It may be best to release and transfer each connection to the new switch, one at a time, to avoid mixups. During installation, make sure the new switch body aligns with the lock housing and the rotating switch center aligns with the cylinder drive pin. Reconnect the battery and check that the switch functions properly BEFORE you reinstall the speedometer.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #3  
Old 06-06-2005, 06:19 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 212
Oh!!
Removing the speedo makes a ton of sense..I should have thought of that!Thanks so much,
Opossum
__________________
German autos!!!
'67 250se coupe
'89 190e 2.6
'05 BMW x5
'59 0319 diesel Omnibus.
Italian bikes!!!
'64 Lambretta Special 185 hot rod scooter
'66 Lambretta SX200
'59 Lambretta 250 race bike
'70 Lambretta GP200
'77 860gt ducati
'66 ducati monza
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  #4  
Old 06-06-2005, 08:03 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro
...to remove the 3 slotted screws that hold the ignition switch to the back of the steering lock. Once the switch is free of the lock...
These 3 screws are supposed to hold the plastic (phenolic?) switch piece to the metal body which houses the tumbler? (Is this the lock you speak of?) If so, I don't see how because there was no indication on the blown up body of mine that there are any holes or shoulders of any sort..It almost seems like it was press fit or something. Either way, the whole switch was indeed falling apart and I don't see what was supposed to be holding everything together. There are springs and balls and detents and the like and I cant figure out how it goes back together. Since I'm in there I would like to service the tumbler as well. It is pretty rough and I need to play with the key to get it to turn at all. Maybe I should just replace the whole mess, eh?

Thanks again, O
__________________
German autos!!!
'67 250se coupe
'89 190e 2.6
'05 BMW x5
'59 0319 diesel Omnibus.
Italian bikes!!!
'64 Lambretta Special 185 hot rod scooter
'66 Lambretta SX200
'59 Lambretta 250 race bike
'70 Lambretta GP200
'77 860gt ducati
'66 ducati monza
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  #5  
Old 06-06-2005, 08:54 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 5,480
The '66 250S that I did had the early type ignition switch - the one with the 5 screw-on wire terminals.
The plastic/phenolic switch back was crimped into a short, round alloy casting. The casting had 3 ears that fastened with 3 slotted screws to the end of the steering-lock barrel.
Usually, the way these switches fail is that the crimps on the alloy part of the switch lose their grip on the plastic part. Often, the plastic part will actually fall off! You still need to unscrew the metal half of the switch from the lock-barrel. I beleive the key and tumbler is removeable from the outside, without needing to remove the whole steering-lock assembly.

Many years ago, not wishing to fork over the $60 or so to buy a new switch for a Benz that I was selling anyway, I re-crimped the old one and it worked just fine.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 06-06-2005 at 08:59 PM.
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  #6  
Old 06-06-2005, 08:59 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro
...Sometimes the plastic part will actually fall off!

Many years ago, not wishing to fork over the $60 or so to buy a new switch for a Benz that I was selling anyway, I re-crimped the old one and it worked just fine.

Happy Motoring, Mark
I guess I'll get to crimping!! I think I got it figured out how they go back together.

Adios, I'll let you know how it turns out.
O
__________________
German autos!!!
'67 250se coupe
'89 190e 2.6
'05 BMW x5
'59 0319 diesel Omnibus.
Italian bikes!!!
'64 Lambretta Special 185 hot rod scooter
'66 Lambretta SX200
'59 Lambretta 250 race bike
'70 Lambretta GP200
'77 860gt ducati
'66 ducati monza
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  #7  
Old 06-06-2005, 09:05 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 5,480
Installing a new switch or re-crimping the old one will be impossible until you get the metal half of the old ignition switch out of the dash. If you decide to re-crimp, I hope you didn't lose any of the little springs, pins and contacts.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW
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  #8  
Old 06-06-2005, 09:10 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro
Installing a new switch or re-crimping the old one will be impossible until you get the metal half of the old ignition switch out of the dash. If you decide to re-crimp, I hope you didn't lose any of the little springs, pins and contacts.

Happy Motoring, Mark
I havent lost anything..I don't think. Do you know any tricks to get the metal part out? I guess that is what the 3 screws do, right?

thanks again,
O
__________________
German autos!!!
'67 250se coupe
'89 190e 2.6
'05 BMW x5
'59 0319 diesel Omnibus.
Italian bikes!!!
'64 Lambretta Special 185 hot rod scooter
'66 Lambretta SX200
'59 Lambretta 250 race bike
'70 Lambretta GP200
'77 860gt ducati
'66 ducati monza
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-06-2005, 09:22 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 5,480
The 3 screw-heads will be facing away from you.
You need a very short stubby screwdriver or offset screwdriver or what I used, which is a stubby screwdriver that looks like a door key with a screwdriver blade on the other end. I actually bought mine at Wal-Mart for $1. It came on a key-ring with a matching Philips screwdriver and a bottle-cap opener. If you remove the screwdrivers from the key-ring, you can use a pocket screwdriver or a long nail or some other small rod through the holes in these screwdrivers for extra leverage.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW
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  #10  
Old 06-06-2005, 10:08 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 212
woohooo

WOO HOOOO!!!!

I think it was a success! I unfortunately got a little overzealous with the crimping and cracked part of the phenolic but I think it will be fine. Before I go and try to crank it over I need to squirt some light oil in the plug holes and change the oil. I hope it still runs like it used to before I parked it!

Thanks Mark.

__________________
German autos!!!
'67 250se coupe
'89 190e 2.6
'05 BMW x5
'59 0319 diesel Omnibus.
Italian bikes!!!
'64 Lambretta Special 185 hot rod scooter
'66 Lambretta SX200
'59 Lambretta 250 race bike
'70 Lambretta GP200
'77 860gt ducati
'66 ducati monza
Reply With Quote
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