Greetings, Last weekend, on a trip from Hartford, CT to Boston, MA, my 1962 220SEb Fintail began to pull ever more severely to the left. As I got into Boston and slowed the car down to below 25 mph, the front end began to sway unnervingly back and forth as if I were turning the steering wheel from the 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock positions, when in fact I was hoilding it level. When I slowed down to between 5 -10 mph and let the steering wheel go, it moved as though a phantom were driving it through a slalom cone course with the front end moving in sync. I didnt' hear any sounds though. I stopped the car to inspect it and noticed that the outside edge of both front tire sidewalls were scuffed, though the pressure was at the maximum. The tread on the left front tire was fine, but the right front tire's inside tread was worn about 1/4 - 1/2" more than the outside tread - it was both visible and apparant by touch. I proceeded to jack up each side respectively, but could generate no play in either wheel by pushing or pulling it top or bottom. A visual inspection of the underside did not reveal anything obvious, but I did not take hold of anything and test for movement. When I drive it further, as I increased speed to over 30 mph, the swaying dissipated, but the pull to the left was still there, (centifical force in action?). Last year I had the kingpins and wheel bearings replaced, but everything else could be years old.

I did an extensive search in this link and under Tech Help, and thought I had it narrowed down to an "idler arm bearing" failure. But when I read through the authorized service manual for my car, I didn't see anything about an idler control arm, let alone such a bearing. Did this item go by a different name in 62? Am I missing something? Any and all ideas and suggestions will be appreciated. The car is still in MA and I'm back in CT so I won't be doing the repair myself, but I am wondering if the car will be okay to drive about 30 miles to a former Hatch & Son mechanic, or should it be towed to avoid losing a wheel or something. Thanks.

1962 MB 220SEb "Fintail" Sedan
1992 MB 300TE 4Matic Wagon
1995 Subaru Wagon

In my factory service manual, the 'idler arm' is described under Job No. 46-11 "Removal and Installation of Steering Relay Arm".
Also check the Relay Arm mounting where it attaches to the right frame rail I've seen them rust out. Check the steering box mounting where it bolts to the left frame rail. I've seen the steering box bolts break. You may not be able to tell just by shaking a wheel but, with the road wheels on the ground, you'll need to have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you look for any visible movement of the steering box mount or any other rigid frame-mounted steering attachements. And check for loose tie-rod ends. I've seen them work loose at the adjuster sleeve enough to screw up the toe-in settings and cause weird steering, while still not showing up as alot of slop when you jack it up and shake the wheels.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

Front subframe bushings? That was my first guess. They'll affect your alignment and have an effect on driving similar to what you've described.

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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With kingpin rebuild a year ago?

I'll betcha it's something really simple like the little locking ear fell off the camber (or is it caster?) adjust bolt - because nobody used locktite on the 9mm bolt that holds the locking ear in place.

Heckflosse suspensions are basic and simple, aint no mystery about them.

(edit: If it was me, I'd use the phonebook to find a cheap allignment shop to pick up the car instead of risking a skinning at the hands of 'experts.'

Back in my days of owning and driving Haeckflossen, I'd take em *anywhere* for wheel allignment without hesitation. Allignment crew that had never seen an MB were always impressed with how easy and simple they are.

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'80 300SD/ w116
'79 240D 4-spd
'71 750cc Guzzi

previously owned:

'83 240D 4-spd
'77 280SEL 4-spd
'74 280/8
'72 250/8
'65 220Sb 4-spd
'63 220Sb 4-spd
'63 190c 4-spd
'61 220Sb 4-spd
'60 190b 4-spd

Great, thanks for all the responses. When I see the car this weekend, I will check all things mentioned. If the cause is any of of those items, would this be something I, as a moderately competent DIY'er could do, or are special tools needed?

Anything besides broken frame rail mounting point of steering box or steering relay arm to frame weld is pretty doable at home.

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63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6

You might want to take a look at the DIY subframe mount procedures done my Mike Tangas. There is a lateral link from the chassis to the crossmember that can break.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W108Subframe

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.