1971 220 - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

meltedpanda · #31 10-31-2005, 09:52 AM

This is an automatic, does it have any "saftey " switches or devices at the gear shift area?

300SDog · #32 10-31-2005, 05:48 PM

Yes, it will only start in neutral. And the switch is combined with backup lights so you cant just unplug it and hotwire the system. Its underneath attached to the tranny with electrical connection leading to it. But it might just need cleaning to refresh the connections. Or possibly you can figure out which wires in the connection are for the neutral safety switch.

The search engine here is pretty good, try searching "neutral safety switch" specific to this forum. Somebody else wrastled with this awhile ago.

meltedpanda · #33 10-31-2005, 08:15 PM

will do, thanks, right or left side, do you remember. Reason I ask is because I am jacking and blocking to get under it, one side at a time, meantime looking for a used set of ramps.
Man these things are low to the ground

PagodaLover · #34 10-31-2005, 09:41 PM

Pictures describe things great.

300SDog · #35 10-31-2005, 09:46 PM

It will be left side - thats the business side of the Benz with fuel lines, filters, linkage, etc. Ignition electrics should at least be lighting up. Maybe you can short/start the solenoid with screwdriver to kick over the starter. Also you can make or get yourself a remote starter button with jacks that clip to the solenoid and battery. The remote starter button will be useful for adjusting points dwell and testing compression too.

Mark DiSilvestro · #36 10-31-2005, 10:11 PM

I thought it was cranking fine. Why are we worrying about the neutral switch? It should crank in neutral OR park. Switch is on the left side where the shift linkage connects to the lever on the tranny.

meltedpanda · #37 11-01-2005, 02:56 PM

It is , but I talked to the previous owner and said that he remembers a "switch" of some sort by the gearshift that "acted up" and would not let the car start. Reason for question was that I have shifter off (top side ) and did not see any electrical connections. Now I know why. I figure I will give it a look to make sure it is just not a loose connection as it seems to turn over right now.
Thanks

meltedpanda · #38 11-02-2005, 10:04 PM

Well she has come to life,

fired up and ran smooth as silk, sounds good, and feels good. Had to hook up temporary gas tank (see picture) or else I would have cruised down the drive.

Thanks for all the help. I am having bunches of fun!!
Now the next question - what should I do about the gas tank, how should I clean it. Any tips, I see the drain and I think it is empty or nearly so. I thought I would drain , put some gas in her, shake it around drain ect. Sound good??

where is the fuel filter located in the tank?

Mark DiSilvestro · #39 11-02-2005, 10:17 PM

Assuming the tank drain hasn't corroded in place, I believe there's a mesh screen in that plug.

Happy Motoring. Mark

djd · #40 11-02-2005, 11:08 PM

Another one comes back to life - congratulations!
I fired up a 250S (gas) that had been sitting for years. Ran OK out of the gas can also. The gas tank was bone dry so I poured in about 5 gallons, sloshed it around and drained. Then put a fuel filter on the inlet side of the pump. It started and ran off the tank OK. Drove around for a while and after about 15 minutes it would die. Did this several times. At first I thought it was a bad fuel pump because no gas getting to the carbs. Cleaned/replaced the fuel filter several times and the strainer in the pump. At times it was getting fuel but not running correctly. The gas was a brown color - must have been varnish and rust in the tank that worked loose.
To make a long story shorter - I eventually dropped the gas tank and treated with a kit I bought from the POR 15 guys. This is time consuming, but it worked great! ($65 prox?) Should have done it from the start - it would have saved time in the long run.
Hope this helps.
Dennis

kpb · #41 11-03-2005, 08:07 AM

I recall recently following a detailed thread about tank cleaning/restoration. Cannot remember if it was a recent thread or if I just stumbled onto an older thread, recently. *Search* should help if you want more guidance.

helga220D · #42 11-03-2005, 08:09 AM

I would drain it and see what the gas looks like. Add some clean gas, slosh it around and see what it looks like. If it's real nasty after doing that a few times, drop the tank and take it to a radiator shop. They'll boil it and steam it for you. This will save you a lot of headaches.

Helga's owner

meltedpanda · #43 11-03-2005, 10:50 AM

Thanks gang, sure was good to hear her come to life. The drain pulg appears to be a big allen wrench type plug, any idea of the size?, perhaps I can make a tool to remove.
I think I will try the gas slosh thing and if I get a lot of brown crap I will take it off and get it cleaned or clean myself with above mentioned product or similar.
I also plan to R/R all cracked/missing vacuum hoses
R/R electrical connections that are rotted or cracked
Fun!
Check here periodically for updates, I plan to chronical the whole event, just so you all can live it with me

dieseldiehard · #44 11-03-2005, 01:19 PM

I drive a '71 220 also, am fond of it. Manual trans, no power steering, no Central Locking System to break.
I had rust in the tank also, that is the reason I got the car in the first place me thinks.
I sent the fuel tank to a rad shop and they boiled it out then applied two coats of a two part epoxy coating that is guaranteed to stand up to gas. They stuck a hair dryer in the filler pipe to force warm air thru it to help dry the stuff. I recall that it took them 2 or 3 days to complete the coating and drying process. You may want to try that if you are DIY.
If you do elect to clean it yourself, find a used timing chain (shops usually throw them out regularly after removing from an engine) drop it down in the tank then agitate the tank with some fuel to clean it. Tie a rope to it to allow easy removal.

Use the biggest fuel filter you can find, don't use a small inline plastic filter. Mahle makes some metal fuel filters with hose barbs on the ends that fit 5/16 in fuel hose. KL-9 is one model I believe. I used a AN clamp to affix it to the fender.
I also have a glass see thru filter in line to allow watching fuel for contaminates, it however passes small stuff that the biger filter catches so don't rely on the glass filter alone.

You will find that replacing the contact points in the distributor with aither optical or magnetic sensor type of ignition will make a huge increase in performance and reliability. The factory ignition leaves a lot to be desired!
Also NGK BPR6ES plugs will work wonders in that engine.
As for drain plug tool. I found a big SAE hex wrench and ground a little off the faces to fit. Some people take a fat bolt and put two nuts on it and jam the nuts together to act as a hex that will fit the plug. 21 mm comes to mind.

dieseldiehard · #45 11-03-2005, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

Well she has come to life,

fired up and ran smooth as silk, sounds good, and feels good. Had to hook up temporary gas tank (see picture) or else I would have cruised down the drive.

Thanks for all the help. I am having bunches of fun!!
Now the next question - what should I do about the gas tank, how should I clean it. Any tips, I see the drain and I think it is empty or nearly so. I thought I would drain , put some gas in her, shake it around drain ect. Sound good??

where is the fuel filter located in the tank?

The filter will be under the hood IF there is a filter. The tank only has a strainer and it is NOT capable of filtering down small enough.
Trace the fuel hose from the fuel pump over across the frint of the engine to the carburettor. If there is no filter, you may want to have the carburetor opened to clean it as rust particles will certainly cause it to malfunction. I've seen what the inside of a rusty carburettor looks like (its awful!)