1971 220 - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

meltedpanda · #46 11-03-2005, 07:50 PM

Drained gas tank today, the tank that I feared was empty and full of rust actually had 10+ gallons of old gas in it. Stunk to high heaven, but after sloshing around some new gas it came out pretty clear. The strainer was plugged( I will replace) . Sent high pressure air into the lines to and from, and they looked good.
I figure I am going to put an inline filter in, new screen and see what happens
What do you all think

Next step, replace lines , work on barkes and then take out for a spin

Mark DiSilvestro · #47 11-03-2005, 09:18 PM

Typically, I've installed an inline filter in the inlet hose ahead of the fuelpump. I couldn't tell from the photo if your temp tank was feeding direct to the carb or working through the pump, but even if that pump is working now, I would consider a replacement after that one's been sitting for who-knows-how-long. As for the brakes, it's a good idea to replace all the old rubber brake hoses because, even if they look OK, they can swell/plug up internally and act as a one-way valve, preventing the calipers releasing and causing seized & burnt brakes.

Happy Motoring, Mark

rs899 · #48 11-04-2005, 06:39 AM

Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on it now. I'm glad to hear of another successful rescue. I would be flushing the brake system before you move it and give strong consideration to changing the brake hoses .

meltedpanda · #49 11-04-2005, 09:53 AM

I actually ran the temp tank into the feed side of the pump and she pumped strong, I will keep replacement in mind however.
I was wondering about all the lines (rubber) on the brakes. I will replace, and flush system.
So you would put the filter before the pump?
Better than after?
Long term or just to make sure tank dirt is caught before pump?

Mark DiSilvestro · #50 11-04-2005, 12:02 PM

Long term AND to make sure no crud gets trapped in the pump. Some say you should put the filter in the outlet side of the pump for some reason, perhaps to prevent vapor lock. I never had problems installing it in the inlet hose on my cars, or with the factory-installed filter location on my 87 Isuzu truck, which is mounted near the tank, way before the engine-driven fuel pump.

Happy Motoring, Mark

meltedpanda · #51 11-04-2005, 12:06 PM

makes sense to me,thanks

meltedpanda · #52 11-04-2005, 12:15 PM

What would you guys do to the tranny. fluid looks good, no unusual smell, but I suspect this car hasn't moved in more than 6 years or so.
As ususal all suggestions welcome, and thanks

samiam4 · #53 11-04-2005, 12:19 PM

Ron,

You might call the MBUSA and ask about the cost of a manual. I seem to remember there was a sale and you could get the CD for $20-25.

Transmission, I'd get the engine running and brakes lines changed/w a flush first. IF the fluid looks clean, I'd take the car for a drive and get the fluid hot. Then drain the fluid(pan and TC), re-fill. Change the flexible lines to the oilcooler and refill.

Michael

300SDog · #54 11-04-2005, 08:53 PM

Yep, diagnosing tranny and fluid is best done hot after extended high speed run. Brown fluid indicates its slightly burned and needs replacement anyhow. Milky fluid indicates presence of water (condensation or radiator/cooler leak).

I think changing old stagnant fluid without running it first will tell you nothing. Also on checking the level you will get low reading when cold and higher reading when hot. So if it checks at bottom level on the stick with engine running and tranny cold, then its okay.... and if you top it off, then it will be overfilled.

Use 4 oz. dixie cup for adding fluid, if at all - it doesnt take much to overfill.

meltedpanda · #55 11-06-2005, 08:51 PM

Weekend update, engine bay back together, fuel lines, on all broken wires fixed, vacuum lines on, air cleaner back, PS system flushed. Now I am waiting for the fuel tank plug and a few other lines, put some gas in her and see if she will move. Then onto the, tranny, bearings and brakes. Probably also tackle rear diff. but dont see a drain plug?

meltedpanda · #56 11-10-2005, 08:45 PM

got gas tank and lines cleaned of all crud, waiting for filter now. Differential drained and filled, hose lines replaced going into/out of gas tank
Cleaned out trunk and found 2 new keys, full set of tools in pouch, hazlet spark plug wrench, lots of junk and original spare, tire made in West Germany.
BTW on the pasengers side there appears to be a vacuum tank of some sort sitting against th efender with a line that exits into the fender. I see no reference to this in my manual anywhere, any idea what this might be?

Mark DiSilvestro · #57 11-10-2005, 09:14 PM

Fuel vapor storage/recovery tank.

Happy Motoring, Mark

meltedpanda · #58 11-11-2005, 09:53 AM

Thanks, amazing contraption for venting, once again probably over engineered!

meltedpanda · #59 11-13-2005, 07:59 PM

Well fired her up after a great deal of fooling around with the neutral saftey switch and took her out for a 2 mile run. Ran good, a little blowing of smoke and some weak brakes ( only 3 calipers working). What a site, no bumpers or grill, one door missing and using the parking brake to stop!
What fun
She felt solid.

New problem, this nuetral satey switch appears to be toast, can they be taken apart and cleaned? I have it off (hope I can get it back right) or is a new part only.

meltedpanda · #60 11-13-2005, 08:21 PM

Is there a bypass procedure for this switch while I try to clean or order new one?