Hello everyone, I am new to posting on
 

this forum, but I have been buying a lot of parts from Fast Lane and Phil is the best, helpful, considerate and has the best prices around.

I just bought a W107 1979 450SLC as a restoration project, but the car need little restoration. The former owner all the documentation back to 1985, all repairs slips and even a set of factory service manuals, included in the price, no rust, some paint peeling on the left door jam and that's about it. Mechanical the car is sound. The former owner had a complete tear down and rebuild of the engine back in 90, and has clocked only 5K miles since. The Odo shows 114K miles. the only real problem area was of course the ACC servo, but I got lucky, the former owner replaced it less then a year ago and the got a years warranty. the company that sold me the rebuilt one, honored the warranty when I got the car and fixed it for $95, and now I have more heat then I need. There are some vacuum leaks, I have been replacing vacuum lines as necessary. One other area is the cruise control. I had it at a Mercedes shop, which I have done business with for years and they did a dianogistic, could find anything, they change the stop light bulbs to the proper ones, as according to what I have read and was told the wrong bulbs could effect the cruise control. But that didn't work. the owner did say he was not and expect and he would now replace the whole unit. But I am wondering if anyone knows or a sight that has info on the cruise. I did some dianogtics work myself and I and the shop are baffled? Aside from changing all the components, anyone out ther have any ideas. I have the cruise control II as it is called in the shop manual and the controller is on the back of the cluster. According to the shop manual the steering wheel needs to be removed to get the cluster out. Anyone ever take a W107 out, without removing the cluster? Thanks for any help and advice.

removing the wheel is pretty easy. Undo the cover on the horn, use a 7/8" (22mm) socket on an extension, and pull off the wheel.

The fun part is not loosing the washer. and getting it back in place. -CTH

According to the shop manual there is also a
 

spring to be careful of. the shop manual suggest you tape it to the nut and after the nut is started to remove the tap.

I had the car in the shop this week. The mechanic straightened the wheel via the tie rods, and took some of the ply out of the steering via the pitman arm. He also fixed the fast idle, but tightening the acclerator linkage, he said it was falling about, missing clips, stops, also adjusted the idle speed screw and the CO2 screw. He also fabricated a bushing for the kickdown switch and busings for the **** lever, a fixed two vacuum leaks. Also had the oil change, filter, tranny. He was going to change the tranny filter but the supplier sent the wrong filter, so he refilled the tranny with clean fluid and new gasket, he did say some of the "seals on the tranny" will need to be replaced, they are seeping, but nothing major yet. Also, he advised me to replace the flex disc on the front and rear of the axle as it is starting to crack, but he added this could wait until spring. Othe then that he made me feel good when he told me this was a great car. The entire top end of the engine had been replaced, new alternator, and a lot of new parts less then 5 or so years old. So I think I have a easy restoration project for a change. Perhaps I'll make money on this project?