Try sending your VIN and picture and a description to Gernold@sltechw113.com. Gernold is the go-to guy in the 113 world, and he is extremely knowledgeable about all things old Mercedes, and helpful (unlike our buddy Pagodalover).

I am still steamed about his comment.

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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe

That comment had me a little agitated too, i've only been on here 2 days and i've gotten lots of information. In this search for parts i've run across some very helpful people. The cars stored at my in laws, I'm going over there in a little bit. I'll get the vin# and take some pics. Thanks (almost)Everyone

According to my factory Mercedes shop manual, there were 4 versions of the dual master cylinder from 1964 to '67. The first 3 use a bolted-on reservoir, secured with a hollow screw through the reservoir under the filler cap. The 4th version, introduced sometime in '67, is the same as version 3, except for the change to a press-in reservoir, with a pair of low fluid-level switches mounted on top.
It's possible the early type cylinder is no longer availible and it's been superceded by the one you're finding now.
If you can't find a new reservoir to fit those replacement cylinders or a replacement cylinder WITH a matching reservoir, try to find a '68 or later W108 280S-SE or W114-115 220/230/250 in a salvage yard. A reservoir from one of those should fit and those cars may be slightly easier to find in a salvage yard than a Fintail.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

Thats the one i have bolt on hollow bolt. if i find a new resevoir the other style should work then right? Its funny the only master cylinder i can find takes the press on resevoir and the only resevoir i can find is the bolt on i already have.

O.K heres my chassis number 110.011-12-024056

heres some pics to help figure out what i've got exactly.

Yep, that looks like the '66 230 I used to have - black with a red interior, except mine had the shifter for the automatic on the steering column and a Kuhlmeister hang-on AC under the dash.

Should be able to fit the other style master cylinder if you can find the matching reservoir.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

found this one that looks right http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8025753044&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
, as is no guarantees though but half the price of the one i found at Euro parts direct. I guess it comes down to get the expensive (the correct) one now and as i'm scrounging scrapyards keep an eye out for a newer style resevoir just in case i ever need one again.

also...

you may find that it's hard to bleed them if they had the wrong fluid in their... I tried a pump bleeder and found that I still had to have someone pump on the pedal with some force to clean out the lines..

I have a 68 110 and it had a press on reservoir.. no problem on replacing the master cylinder.

good luck!

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1968 w110 230 Fintail

You need to clean out all those pine needles pronto, moisture and decaying matter will lead to rust.

It looks to me like the booster is the wrong one, it should be much thicker. It may be from the 230/8. That is where the confusion lies. Also, the brake lines look like they have been bent to match the master cyl. which is now farther back.

IMHO

Does anybody have a 200 or 200D for comparison?

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

If the brake booster was any thicker it would be impossible to fit my master cylinder on with the battery in the car (it comes right to the battery). If anybody has any pics of a 230 brake setup,please post. Thanks. Some things have been changed and i'm trying to see where i'm at.It has Webers instead of Zeniths and i don't know what else.

I have no brake pedal pressure at all, the master cylinder has been rebuilt by the previous owner and still didn't work. Could it be the booster thats bad? If the master cylinder was good and the booster was bad i would still have some brakes just weak right?

I know how to bench bleed a master,and bleed the calipers. I have never rebuilt one as the kits were always close enough in price to not have to bother. I don't have any leaks and i'm getting fluid to all 4 corners it just won't build any pressure. Most of my experience has been on american muscle cars so its a bit of a learning curve (is it so hard to NAME at least a few models?) the numbering gets confusing, I've never got a mustang confused with a thunderbird but a 230 vs. a 220(or whatever) cofuses me.

If the booster was bad, you would have a very hard solid pedal, but it would take very high pedal pressure to stop, much like trying to stop a power assist braked car without starting the engine.
Very low or no brake pedal is usually a fluid leak, master cylinder seal failure or air in the system.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

thats why i'm figuring master cylinder, I definateley have no leaks, bleeding it doesn't help. and i have no pedal pressure it goes to the floor and it never pumps up. I'm looking at it from the point of view that either the previous owner did a bad job rebuilding it or it has a mechanical defect and either way it will be solved with a new master. If there was air in the system it would eventually pump up, at least some, right?