Hi All,

This forum looks to be a great resource. Hopefully I'll get my first "old" car and stick around.

I found a family friend with a 1970 280S. I was told everything is original. I fell in love at first glance.

Besides some cracking on the doors, the interior is great.
The exterior is pretty clean, as the car was once repainted and was always garage kept. Chrome is still very shiny.
I was told the chassis has 135k, and the motor was rebuilt 16 years ago.
Without seeing the car personally can someone give me a range I should expect to pay? Thanks!

Does it run, and what sort of options does it have?
Any rust underneath?

__________________
It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

cosmetics is everything with these cars, followed by the cost of repairs.

Many of us here are very handy and wouldn't care about a blown engine. However, rust repair is something different. Take a good look under the car. Holes in the floor? that would be a very expensive repair.

-cth

__________________
- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

Thanks guys. I'm so busy with school right now that I haven't had a chance to see the car during the day. I'll be sure to check for rust thoroughly. Maybe I'll have a few pictures tomorrow...if I ever get a day off.

Plan to get very dirty, unless you can get it up on a lift (best).

Particular rust-prone areas to check (include magnet, in case of Bondo fills suspected on outer body panels):

headlight "eyebrows" and front stone panels under radiator
inside front fenders, especially where panels join
firewall area where heater box/plenum drains enter engine compartment
rear lower corner and back of inner wheelwell on front wheelwells (look for tar/"goop" 'repairs', esp at front "cap" of unibody frame rail)
rocker panels, inside and out, especially around jackpoints and inside wall
underside of all doors. jackpoints should be solid.
rear door back corners and sill, through to front lower corner of rear wheelwells underside and joints, behind wheelwell arches
rear quarter panels (trunk wells inside)
sheetmetal around F & R windshields, condition of gaskets (major water incursion source), windshield wiper shaft areas.
trunk lid gasket area (feel inside/under lips for hidden holes under gasket)
taillight lips/mounts; filler area
under trunk mat/floor
trunk wells and inner wall underneath
interior footwells under mats, front and rear, including front seat mounts and bulkhead under front of rear seat

There are still some clean ones on the market, including SE's vs S's - if this is badly "holed" or into the "frame" rails - do not walk; RUN away, unless you love body work. Once it starts, the cancer is almost impossible to fix/stop, depending on where it will be used (Key West, or Phoenix).

That said, however, if you can get a good driver and live with or handle some rust, for a good price - Enjoy!

Check listings in eBay and in many of the links here - to get a feel for pricing.

If it's really clean and good running (DO check all heater/A-C/electrical stuff)
it may be worth a couple of grand - if rusting out and mechanical problems, do yourself a favor and walk away - not worth it at any price...

See if anyone in Forum can get you a line on someone local who knows these and can look at it with you/operate it, etc...

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stanbabu@3bubbas.com
59 300d
65 250SE/Cpe
70 250/8
72 250C
78 280CE