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  #1  
Old 02-26-2001, 10:50 AM
Channel1
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Hello Everyone,

Just spent Saturday doing some more work to the W114. I gutted the interior… totally! I pulled the seats out and literally filled my garbage can with all the disintegrated horse hair pad. I did put the dashboard out as well as the dash was cracked beyond what a replacement pad cover would have solved. If you recall, I had to change the blower switch and the A/C blower motor due to meltdown. But was able to save the heater blower motor from A tip I got from Michael at Mercedes Used Parts in Oregon. He suggested that the blower was not actually bad but was most likely stiff from lack of lubrication to the top bearing. I followed his suggestion of using an ohmmeter to check to see if the motor was still a closed circuit by back probing the resistor block. I show the circuit to be closed a good sign! Removing the wipes and the cowl cover to gain limited access to the motor, I checked to seen if the blade would turn at all. The blade was quiet stiff Using penetrating oil and the little red tube, I stripped the insulation off a piece of 4 wire telephone cable and fitted it over the red tube to provide an extension tube of around 2 ft. I then with tube between my finger felt the top of the motor to locate the upper bearing and proceeded to soak it with fluid. It took about 10 min to work the fluid in but still being stiff I turned the motor on and bingo! It started to work! I ran it for quite a while and kept up with spraying some lightweight motor oil and it now works perfect! I hope this tip may help others as it saved me a ton of time! After assembly of the a/c heater box I converted the a/c system to R134a by installing the retro fit kit which included the proper port fittings, oil, and necessary 134a to charge the system. Living in Florida you CAN NOT live with out A/C! The system works like a champ with discharge temp @ 39 degrees at the center vent. The heater temp control on the dash selector was broken due to someone forcing the control lever. The heater control valve on the outside firewall was very stiff, After removal and cleaning all the corrosion out of it, it also now works smooth, but I must now replace the dash control assembly as the lever is pot metal and broke. Next weekend, I will be installing the new “USED” control head and the "Used" dash board assembly as well as installing new carpet, "Used" Leather seats, door panels as time permits.

Regards,
Bryan
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  #2  
Old 02-26-2001, 06:35 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: San Antonio,TX
Posts: 31
Bryan,
I have a 75 280C, and I would like to replace the seat pads, which are desintegrating constantly, actually, you can feel the springs.
Do you know of a place or website where I can get the seat pads?, or a replacement pads.

Thanks,
Francisco
75 280c 109k miles
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  #3  
Old 02-27-2001, 02:56 PM
Channel1
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These pads are expensive!

I have found the alternative is taking the seats to the local custom upholstery shop and having them do the job for 150.00 for both front seats complete back and bottom pads. well worth the effort and money saved having a pro do the job!

Regards,
Bryan

[Edited by Channel1 on 02-27-2001 at 02:00 PM]
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  #4  
Old 02-28-2001, 01:39 AM
caitov
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Wow you're having all the seats done for $150.00?
Are they actually replacing the pads with the real horsehair pads?
I ask because I recently did the job myself on my '74 280C and I shopped the new pads quite extensively.
The cheapest I could find anywhere was about $800.00 for the whole car.

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  #5  
Old 02-28-2001, 12:02 PM
Channel1
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The material was not the horsehair pad, but high density latex foam. This price was for both the fronts only not the rear, {still looking for a good rear top and bottom in Black} and the seats were brought to the shop directly. The gentlemen quoted me 150.00 for the back seat if and when I find one.
Regards,
Bryan
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  #6  
Old 03-01-2001, 10:43 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: San Antonio,TX
Posts: 31
Thanks for the advice, I think I will go with the high density latex foam.

Francisco
1975 280C 109k miles
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  #7  
Old 01-13-2002, 11:46 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Richmond, KS
Posts: 197
Heater Box?

Whats the secret to removing the heater box? I've gotten it loose enough to move around but seems tagged somewhere in the upper left area and then seems like it may be a pain to get out through the availble opening.
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