280 up and running - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Mike D · #1 02-23-2006, 11:00 PM

Saved me a 1973 280 from the crusher. I don't know why I do this stuff.
I've already restored a '71 220, '73 220D ( replaced the 2.2 with a 2.4, drove it for 8 years, gave it to my son who promptly thrashed it into the ground), 1978 300D (I hated that car, I dunno why, just something about the way the 123 handles compared to the 114-115 series), and a '69 220 (now THAT'S a sweet driving machine, twin Solex carbs and a nicely spread 4 speed).
The 280 sat abandoned for at least 12 years (the newest coin I've found in it was a '92 penny and oh, by the way, I've found $5.86 in change so I'm only out $144.14 on my original investment). I thought it was brown but after cleaning, polishing and waxing, it is actually a "plum" color. There is an original Mercedes "touch-up" paint stick with the name of "Dunkel rot" in the glove box. As un-manly as it sounds, I prefer the description of "plum" as compared to "Dunkel rot".
A work in progress.
The car wouldn't start. No surprise there, it hadn't run in who knows how long. The starter was in the trunk. I took the starter down to my local rebuilder who gave it the once-over, cleaned it up and chased out the spiders. I installed the starter put a battery in, and the ignition lights came on and I had fire to the coil. I connected a remote start unit to the starter and cranked. And cranked and cranked and cranked. Put gas in the carb and cranked. Put a battery charger on it and cranked. Got the car to fire, kind of. Brought the engine up to TDC and popped the distributer cap. Hmmm, I thought it would be on #1 not #5. Pulled the distributer, turned it back one tooth and cranked, VROOOM, the baby fired!
Pulled the plugs, filled cylinders with a mixture of transmission fluid, oil and penetrating oil, let sit for a week.
****IMPORTANT TIP HERE! Do NOT and I mean NOT lean across the engine and operate a remote starter unit on an engine whose cylinders are filled with oil**** You will not care for the results!
After cursing and showering, I tested the compression. It ranged from 120 p.s.i. to 150 p.s.i. I figure that is pretty good for a cold engine so I replaced the plugs and tried to start it. Pop, pop, KA-POW! I pulled the plugs and connected them to the wires and cranked. Very weak spark.
I eliminated the points set-up with a Crane XR700 and Crane coil. I had to use the supplied ballast resister but I eliminated about 15 feet of wires, 2 ballast resisters and that worthless "TDC" sensor which reads the pin on the balancer. Car started and ran.
I fought that miserable Solex carb for three weeks and finally admitted defeat. I modified a 4BBL to 2BBL conversion plate which I picked up at Autozone (or any car parts store). I had to re-drill the rear two holes on the plate, removed the 4 long mounting studs from the intake manifold and replaced them with bolts. I re-used the original fiber spacer and mounted it between the adapter and the manifold. Dropped a standard Motorcraft 2 barrel carb onto it and fired that mutha up. I had to replace the pivot on the carb for the linkage and put two appx. 45 degree bends in the existing linkage. I probably should have gone with a Holley but the Motorcraft was free.
Purred like a kitten for about an hour. The mechanical fuel pump started pouring fuel out of the diaphragm. I replaced with an electric pump ($40 as opposed to $90) and then it wouldn't start. No fuel delivery. Pulled the lines to check for fuel. One had fuel and I ASSUMED (note to self, never assume) the previous owner had connected the return line to the feed (it'll work fine as long as there is enough fuel in the tank) so I switched them.
Car started and ran, sort of. I pissed around with this situation while I was sorting out other stuff. I cleaned the rear seat ( found another 86 cents, 50 assorted Lego's, numerous hair bands and three Lolly-pops, two grape and one cherry) pulled the floor liner out of the trunk, put a layer of rust-proofing-sound deadener in the trunk, lubed up the windows, cleaned the sunroof trackes, washed and waxed the baby, replaced the ignition switch, had a key made from the trunk lock etc., etc.
I noticed the inline fuel filter I installed was now a red color. AHA! I said, rust in the tank! I pulled the strainer (I used an old spark plug socket reversed and a pipe wrench) and I was deluged with what appeared to be the LaBrea tar pits residue. Time to drop the tank. I replaced the strainer, poured in a gallon of carb cleaner, a gallon of paint thinner and a gallon of something or the other I had on hand. I think it was WD-40, at least it was in a WD-40 gallon container. I let this sit for a couple of days, drained it and dropped the tank. I replaced the strainer, filled it with about three cups of liquid laundry soap and about five gallons of water, sloshed and jiggled it around for an hour. I drained that, loaded the tank up and ran down to the local spray wash. Spent 5 dollars on pressure washing the inside of the tank out. Clean as a whistle! I spent the last dollar of washing time on spraying all the loosened crud down the drain. There was that much crud inside the tank!
Dried out the tank, cleaned the fuel pickup tube, filled tank with fresh fuel,, reversed the lines which I inverted (the pickup tube was filled with crud which is why I couldn't get fuel from it before), new spark plugs, cranked engine and Holy Smokes, blue smoke out the tailpipe like it was judgement day! Once the oil burned out of the exhaust system the car ran like a new one. Idles smooth as silk, good pickup and seems to be better mileage.
Few more things to do now but I do think I have this beast handled.
I have to replace the heater core, re-configure the choke set-up, rebuild the vacuum assist mechanism, eliminate the worthless vacuum relays and replace the windshield.
I figure I'll be driving this baby for under a $1000. Not too bad of a deal for a rust-free 114.

davestlouis · #2 02-23-2006, 11:20 PM

you're my hero...wish things went that smoothly for me!

meltedpanda · #3 02-24-2006, 11:16 AM

pictures ...please

Tristar1959 · #4 02-24-2006, 01:11 PM

Why do we do this stuff?
Because, when it finally does the "Vroom-vroom" thing...well, YOU know!!!

250 Coupe · #5 02-24-2006, 03:05 PM

Thank you for that lively and funny report.

I'm trying to laser text onto a cylinder that seems to be changing its diameter every time I run it and your post has inspired me to keep trying.

Michael

t walgamuth · #6 02-24-2006, 08:39 PM

work.

gotta go watch a movie with the wife.

tom w

nachi11744 · #7 02-25-2006, 03:35 AM

Hello,
Great-------another W114 saved and running.
There is a W114 280E 4 speed sedan sitting in a workshop a few miles from me, it cannot start and owner won't sell. I fear it will just sit until one day it will be parted out or maybe even scrapped.
The shop is telling the owner the D-Jet brain is dead, but I think they want the car for parts, like the power steering box, engine with 4 speed(suitable for W107s)etc to convert a 350SL that they have bought. Cars are taxed on engine capacity here plus the gasoline price has hit the stratosphere as well.
Ah well, tough luck.
Have a good week and keep those W114/115s going.

Mike D · #8 03-01-2006, 12:54 PM

Here you go Ron.

No rust! Original hubcaps and the famous "Dunkelrot". There is a slight dent in the front fender directly center of the wheelwell. No creases or cracked paint so I am going to one of those "paint-less" dent repair places and see if they can get it out.

If you look closely at the bumper you'll notice a slight ding in it just at the rear of the side marker light. I have a replacement lens for the rear. All the chrome is intact with the exception of the front star (which I have 4 or 5 of) and fender trim on the DS front fender (it was in the trunk).

The rear window rubber is dried out and cracked so I'll need to replace it (notice the headliner hanging down). I have the 280 emblem from the trunk lid but I pulled it to clean the paint.

The trunk with a "quickie" coat of rust preventative. I've popped all the drain plugs out and I'll leave them out until I replace the trunk lid seal. There's a slight bit of surface rust in the left center of the picture. The rest of the spots are dirt from the trunk liner. It takes about a week for the stuff to dry and of course I was in a hurry and put the liner back in with dirt on it.

The trunk with the liner. This is just to show you the nice finish this stuff leaves on the wheel wells and seat back.

That's all I can post for now. I'll post some more later along with the projects I'm undergoing. It's going to be slow. I just had neck surgery and my wife won't let me play .

meltedpanda · #9 03-01-2006, 02:22 PM

Wow, what a find, looks to be in great shape. My parts car is the same color!
check out this link for one of my many projects you will see the parts car

http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1531583

keep us posted