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  #16  
Old 03-01-2006, 02:08 PM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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Sorry to hear about that....even if its a beater car when you are short on cash its a hard blow to take.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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  #17  
Old 03-01-2006, 04:48 PM
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Bits N pieces

Tom,

If you decide to fix it - I just remembered that in addition to the many 108 280SE lights, bumpers (which are in the overhead and probably some rust), rear glass, many interior parts; I also....kept the whole front end subassembly - (don't know if it's different on the 2.8L - other than springs themselves)
so, if that also took a whack,(although you don't think the wheels hit) you could have that, outright (free).

I may be able to combine trips with my truck - got a friend who wants to pick up a piece of furniture from SE Pa area, and possibility of dropping off a 123 right rear door to a chap in N. Va, so Scranton wouldn't be that far out, if you could chip in toward gas and burgers.

Lemme know.

Stan
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  #18  
Old 03-01-2006, 07:00 PM
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If you decide to crush it, that 4.5 rear end is worth ~$600 to the w113 SL guys. The front springs are unique to the 4.5 as well, beefier to handle the extra weight of the 4.5 motor... And from what we've read about your tuned motor, I'd guess it might command ~$1,000.
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Over 21 years I owned several:
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  #19  
Old 03-01-2006, 08:04 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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the principal

on the body jacking is to simply put the pressure opposite of the place it was pushed in from and push out.

good luck. it is not too hard to get it to 95% of the original shape. the other 5% is very time consuming.

tom w
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  #20  
Old 03-05-2006, 07:20 PM
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Rust free shells

If you decide to re-shell it, there are a couple of rust free 280's here in ATL that are sitting in the yards.
I still think you should consider that texan 300SEL. Bring it home via Atlanta and I'll set my body guys loose on it.
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  #21  
Old 03-05-2006, 11:22 PM
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That 109 hasn't been run in 9 years. The seller said "It took the vehicle several months of not being used before the susspension settled." But a 109 sitting for 9 years... I hate to think about how, with my luck, every airbag would be shot, as would every hose and seal on it.
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  #22  
Old 03-06-2006, 12:51 PM
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Ouch, that sucks!

With all my traveling in the last week I haven't had time to hit every forum on the board. Only seeing this for the first time. It does appear to be mostly cosmetic, but definitely dig in deeper to verify.
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  #23  
Old 03-06-2006, 02:58 PM
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About 30-45 minutes worth of banging has resulted in this, which I'm pleased with so far. I need to square the area around the light off better, but the side part is as good as it's gonna get I think.
Attached Thumbnails
My poor car :(-mar6-1.jpg   My poor car :(-mar6-2.jpg  
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Current:
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2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
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2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
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  #24  
Old 03-06-2006, 03:01 PM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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Working with a flat faced hammer and a dolly should improve that side a great deal better than it is now.
__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #25  
Old 03-12-2006, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomguy
About 30-45 minutes worth of banging has resulted in this, which I'm pleased with so far. I need to square the area around the light off better, but the side part is as good as it's gonna get I think.
Mine would provide you with great replacement parts. I've got the back bumper (and it's not even on the car currently!) and the brightwork strip. The only problem is that mine has a pronounced (one small PITA) ding right on the end of that back fender.

That's all too bad about your car. I can tell from reading your post that you have put a ton of time and energy (and probably some cash) into it over the years.

My Condoleezas
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  #26  
Old 03-14-2006, 01:10 PM
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W108's in junk yards

Tom

There are a couple of W108's in the yards over here in Atl. You may want to just cut a quarter panel and rear panel off one and have a bodyshop replace yours. That is what I would do to mine if I was to do it again.

I must be missing something because your car doesnt look as rusty as I imagined from your description.
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  #27  
Old 03-14-2006, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alabbasi
Tom

. You may want to just cut a quarter panel and rear panel off one and have a bodyshop replace yours. That is what I would do to mine if I was to do it again.
I have thought about this for my W115. I have a perfect quater panel and on a parts car. I have steered away from it because I thought it would be cost prohibitive. However, I think in the long run it would be better. Anybody have any idea what this may cost to do?
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  #28  
Old 03-14-2006, 01:50 PM
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There are two major parts of concern - the left rear and right rear. Also, my driver's side rear floorpan is completely shot. With the cost of welding these 3 areas AND a body job, it's now cost-prohibitive. I'm just going to be patient, and when I get the money, get a rust-free 108 or 109. If it runs fine, all the better - I'll use my current 4.5 engine as a guinea pig and put 3.5 pistons into it (and maybe rods, if they're longer, though I doubt it) to go along with the 3.5 heads, and see if the pistons then go all the way to the top, and if so, how high its compression is (and if it'll blow a rod or not... haha)
Attached Thumbnails
My poor car :(-rust-lr.jpg   My poor car :(-rust-rr.jpg  
__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k
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  #29  
Old 03-14-2006, 02:01 PM
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Me!

I had a set cut from a junk yard for my W116. I can't remember but I think they cost about 300 / pair for the parts. I had to put one quarter in the back of the volvo wagon and one on the roof rack and drive it back from Alabama to Atlanta.

Time and Labor, replacing a quarter is cheaper then banging it out and this is pretty much how all body shops work.

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  #30  
Old 03-14-2006, 05:54 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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your advice is good

but is dependant on someone who has the skill and equipment to do the welding and such.

tomboy can do the tar and rivit thing himself and go on down the road for a couple of years.

so, maybe that is better for him.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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