Is the leakage related to its unwillingness to start? The day I drove it around it ran OK for awhile and I didn't note any leakage. I don't think I saw any leakage that day, but did the next time I turned the key, several days later, it only leaks when the fuel pump is running and pressurizing the system.

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2002 Ford ZX2
2 x 2013 Honda Civics

OK, the leak is fixed...loose fitting at the WUC.

Now, it still doesn't want to start...it runs for perhaps 10 seconds on the first turn of the key, then won't restart. I also discovered that the fitting where the throttle cable hooks to the linkage on the engine is broken, so I rigged something up.

Is it possible to have the rotor on the distributor wrong? I have a nagging feeling I screwed-up that portion of the repair.

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2002 Ford ZX2
2 x 2013 Honda Civics

I'm pretty sure the rotor is keyed so that it can only fit on one way.

Not sure why, but I would be hunting down any vacuum leaks that might be there. I was working on an Audi one time, and I couldn't figure out why I could only get it to run with the throttle darn near buried...Turns out there was a vacuum fitting (it had two vacuum lines attached) that had weaseled its way out of the intake. It was one of those things that was right infront of me, yet pretty much invisible unless you were looking for it.

Good going!

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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

Thanks for the thought...I'm grasping at straws...today I started it up, and it stumbled and died several times, but would not restart for perhaps 60 minutes between attempts. Finally it started and I was able to get it to run for several minutes, up to 4000 RPM's, but it back-fired through the air flap under throttle at low RPM's and smoothed out at higher RPM's. There was no visible smoke from the exhaust. I'm getting frustrated. I made it this far and now I seem to have hit a brick wall. The good news is, it has no visible fluid leaks, even the PS pump seems OK. As noted in my last post, the connector between the throttle cable and the linkage on the engine broke off, and the threaded portion an inch or so up the cable is broken in half too...what should these parts look like? and what does the threaded portion do?

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2002 Ford ZX2
2 x 2013 Honda Civics

Another question...the breather hose between the valve cover and air cleaner box has a short stub of what looks like vacuum line attached...it's perhaps 3/4 of an inch long. What does it do, and should there be a longer section of hose connected to something?

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2002 Ford ZX2
2 x 2013 Honda Civics

That vac hose should connect to a hole in the rubber air lines near it.

Like I said earlier, I think you have a fuel delivery problem. This is exactly what my car was doing once I got it running.

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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe

Shoot, I changed the FD and now it at least starts occasionally. The air flap has a lot of resistance now, when it was loose with the old FD in place. Let's say for a moment that the "new" FD is OK, what's my next step?

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2002 Ford ZX2
2 x 2013 Honda Civics