New 108 Arrives - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

meltedpanda · #16 04-28-2006, 10:56 AM

Thanks Dog, for the offer, I saw that thread and thought long and hard about going, however that is the weekend of the State Track meet here and my daughter is a top 800 meter contender, soooooo doubt I can accept. Its the whole family thing

I am sure Libby could handle the trip! Make sure someone takes plenty of pictures and posts them

Tomguy · #17 04-28-2006, 02:15 PM

Aww, I make a joke about sending me the car, and you guys want to make a 108-fund for me. I love you guys

kbannister · #18 04-28-2006, 06:35 PM

Here is a suggestion on cleaning injectors. I used to clean grandfather clock works and used an ultrasonic cleaner to degrease them and clean the gunk off them. Before you go spending a ton of money on new injectors, go to Wal-Mart and buy one of those ultrasonic jewely cleaners, $30.00 then order clock cleaning solution from the website below, NON ammoniated and they will look and work like new again. If you have a clock repair shop somewhere near you, I'm sure you could buy a little solution from them, or even have them toss them in the cleaner. Just don't use the stuff with the ammonia. It has been proven to cause microscopic fractures in brass when used in the cleaners.

The jewelry cleaning solution at Wal-Mart are probably not strong enough but it would be worth a try

www.lrultrasonics.com/industries/watch/solutions.html

ctaylor738 · #19 04-28-2006, 10:42 PM

Thanks for the advice on injector cleaning.

So Senior Management was working late tonight.

Last night I drilled six holes in a piece of wood so that the injectors could sit upright. I filled them with Technron and let them sit overnight. Tonight, I ran them through the tester/cleaner, and 4 of them worked fine almost immediately. The other two took some additional pumping but soon started chirping.

I put the oil in, pulled Fuse 4 to diasble the fuel pump, and cranked until I got oil pressure. - 3 bursts of 10 seconds each.

Put the new spark plugs in.

I installed the new fuel filter, put Fuse 4 back in and ran the pump.

Turned it over and it fired, without the injectors, probably on the cold start valve.

I put the injectors back in , and on the 3rd crank it started and ran for about two seconds.

Quit for the night, because the car is facing the back of the garage and it will stink up the whole house if it starts. I need to take it off the stands and roll it outside.

So tomorrow is the big day! Stay tuned.

ctaylor738 · #20 04-29-2006, 08:00 PM

First the good news -

Actually started rather easily - hit the cold start valve with 12V a couple of times, did the crank-fire-die routine three times, and then it started and stayed runninng. Got better as it warmed up and as fresh fuel got into the system.

Good oil pressure, no overheating, valves quiet, no blow-by, drives OK, trans seems fine, brakes OK. Much easier to deal with a car that you can move!

The bad news -

Leak at top of radiator. Runs rough. Alternator not charging. #2 cylinder dead - plug is firing but rought idle stays constant if you pull the wire off. Some blue smoke out the tailpipe at idle at after starting.

Stuff to fix -

Running quite rich. Throttle mechanism binding sometimes and not returning to idle. Hand brake does not seem to have a return spring. Hood latch cable broke at the lever today.

So the dream of getting it running and having a working car fades ...

Tomguy · #21 04-29-2006, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctaylor738

Hood latch cable broke at the lever today.

Join the club. I seriously think that's why MB included pliers in the tool kit. Also why there's a pouch in the driver's door!

#22 04-29-2006, 09:26 PM

Nice looking 108 there. That's a great motor. It fits the car very well. When I had to wake up my 220SE I used a 1/2 and 1/2 mix of sea foam and hi-test. It really helped to free up the plungers in the fuel injection pump and the injector tips. It smoked for a while but finally cleared up. That sea foam is great stuff. I used to think it was all hype until I bought a old snap-on fuel injection cleaning machine. The guy told me all he ever used was 1/2 and 1/2 sea foam and fuel. That is what I used to get the car started. Using a rube goldberg assortment of hose and fittings. You can also hot wire the cold start valve to help you "choke" it whe you attempt to fire it off. Good luck

#23 04-29-2006, 09:27 PM

Sorry, I should have read the whole thread first. Congrats on getting it started.

#24 04-29-2006, 09:37 PM

If memory serves me correct, you have a six plunger inj pump. It's possible the one plunger is stuck and the internal spring can't push it down the bore. When it happens on two plunger pumps the car runs on three cylinders. I say this because you mention the stiff throttle linkage which leads me to think the rack inside the pump is sticky, and so are the plungers. There is a plate on the side of the pump that you can remove in order to manualy(sic) operate the plungers in order to get them free. Come on guys, I know there are some old-timers around here that have dealt with this before.

cth350 · #25 04-29-2006, 10:56 PM

chuck, I got a 6.3 for xmas in about the same state. I've only given it an hour here and an hour there, but today it also came back to life.

There are some good details on the MFI system at the Pelican page (just do a web search; also our archives here). I think the old hardcover book about Bosch FI systems covers this system best.

If you find you need a fuel pump, I am using one from a 500sel I got off ebay for 45$. Can't beat that. I haven't mounted it under the car yet, as I have it in the trunk wired up with an extension from the stock wiring. My tank was also clogged. Currently it's removed and I am using a gas can as a fuel tank. Not exactly condusive to driving, but it works fine in the driveway.

I temporarily replaced my radiator with a length of 1 1/4" iron pipe and a couple of Y fittings. It helped that I had a spare oil cooler and an extra long flex line from a 190e 2.6 laying about.

enjoy it. It may not be running this week, but it should be on the road relatively easily.

-cth
PS. what color & material type do you need for the seats?

cth350 · #26 04-30-2006, 06:54 AM

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/155649782.html

ctaylor738 · #27 04-30-2006, 04:22 PM

The seats are the navy blue leather.

Got the alternator going - the wiring to the regulator was unhooked.

#2 seemed to be doing better today, and the exhaust was definitely not as rich. Pulled the plug after a short test drive and it looks to be burning OK.

The Pagoda board is an amazing resource for these engines, and they seem to be OK with a sedan guy hanging out there.

http://www.sl113.org/forums/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=2

richard cronin · #28 04-30-2006, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

If the plugs are black and dry you are running rich, may also have vacuum leak(s) which may be cause of your hunt, start with car/inj adj/clean. Check for leaks , gasket failures

The left bank of plugs are all black and dry and I've not doubt that that is running rich. I have a local Merc garage with a head mechanic who has a 'thing' for vintage mercs so I have him lined up for next week to have a look at it.

The other problem I have with it is that the Irish weather is palying havoc with the bodywork. The underside is waxolied but the body is starting to 'feel' the 240 days of rain a year!

Re-spray due after the summer!