I'd like a bench mark to gauge my planned modifications to this old gal. Little blowback, little smoke, lots of rattles at low RPM.MPG looks to be around 25-30 MPG even with regular Itialian tuneups. Past owner claimed 100k miles (probally 200k), many origional parts and likes 85 MPH, but off the line is slugish. 0-60 in WI, zero grade, 65*F averages 18.5 seconds.
What is the origional 0-60? Somewhere I read 13 seconds, but this seems a bit fast.
Thanks.

Road and Track opined that the SD was "a slug of a tub that crawled on its hands and knees to 60 mph, while clacking like a sackful of castanets"
but also that everyone loved it, and it was the perfect car for the Reagan years...

You want SLOW, try the W123 240D automatic

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1991 560 SEC AMG, 199k <---- 300 hp 10:1 ECE euro HV ...

1995 E 420, 170k "The Red Plum" (sold)

2015 BMW 535i xdrive awd Stage 1 DINAN, 6k, <----364 hp

1967 Mercury Cougar, 49k

2013 Jaguar XF, 20k <----340 hp Supercharged, All Wheel Drive (sold)

If u really wanna performance then go for a 6.9 or a 6.3
Or go what the Finns did, crank her up to 200HP.
But if u wanna her to last as long as Energizer Bunny, then leave the well enuf alone.

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I was hoping for a more serious thread. Went to Atl. Auto. rec. and one search gave me 17 sec to 62.1 mph so my old gal is close. I now know minor tweaking should bring her close to origional spec. Valve adj. will come first than balancing the IP.
The reason for this base mark or bench mark is I plan on converting her to waste vegie oil and when something goes south I need to judge if it is the new fuel or an engine/systems issue.
BTW my history of face pealing autos include Cobra, MG kit cars, several Lotus (loved the Elan over the Europa), a few Fiats, many MB and one slightly modified Alfa that learned a lesson from a Matra. Add a few bikes, horses and some cherished women.
Now for those who look down on diesel performance ... LeManns!

The best tune-up measure is cetane booster additives in the fuel. Synthetic oil in the crankcase helps improve performance too. Calculate chain stretch *before* you attempt injector pump timing. At/near 10 degrees is considered excessive. Naturally veggie oil will rob performance and create filter flow problems. An inline fuel heater will probly help. Otherwise you cannot "tune up" diesel engines because they fire on their own accord. The best you can do is hammer down on them hard and keep em at high rpm's to avoid carbon build up on piston crowns and valves. Fouled combustion chambers and pre-comb chambers are another item that robs performance, you understand.

And none of your vast experience diddling with MG's, Lotus and Cobra Fords will help either. Does your 116 300SD have a tachometer? If so, try to keep it above 3,000 rpm's no matter how much racket the engine makes, not an easy task with automatic transmission. But feather the pedal and you can figure it out. Tendency is to LUG the engine at low rev's.

Thanks DDog.
The tach is still in on the to do list.
So far with 50% mix of 1 micron vegie, no problems.
Yes the idle is rough when cold. When warm, purrs like a young gal. Still getting 25-30 MPG on this mix.
Thanks of the info on the timing chain.
I have wrenched on diesels, stationary and Chev, Ford, Cummings, Cat ... but they are a bit different from the old gal.
The vegie conversion will have a 4 gallon tank under the hood, engine heated, electric silicone pad heater on the fuel filter and injector lines ... I've been heating my house (I have experience with the wax formation issue) with this fuel and have 30 + years of fabrication.
Wish we could get the Shell Diesel fuel advertized at LeMans!
Now if I could fit a close ratio 6 speed manual trany with od ... dreams.

Yes the only reason the injector pump needs timing is to compensate for chain stretch, otherwise you set it once and then leave it alone. Meanwhile anybody who tries to diagnose the diesel from cold start idle is out of their mind, same is true for Wintertime "engine diagnosis". There are no variable electric or vacuum operated air/fuel mixture or combustion advance/retard devices on the primitive 116 300SD. But smart adaptation is the dashboard mounted manual idle speed control found on 240D's - thats about all you can do, aside from driving it hard to keep the combust chambers as clean as possible. Genuine slugs are old lady cars that never get warmed up or travel more than 6-12 miles at a clip. And as I've said, synth oil in the crankcase will noticably improve performance. Have just converted my 4cyl to synthetic oil at 250k miles, genuine acceleration improvement almost immediately.

And your dream of adapting standard transmission is not out of the question. The 240D 4-spd bellhousing, tranny mounts, flywheel and clutch pedal will bolt right in. You will also need the 4-spd driveshaft but NOT the differential. Actually am uncertain what driveshaft you'd need to accomodate length variation between the auto w116 and standard shift w123 tranny, depends on wheelbase differences between the 116 and 123, could even be that 123 driveshaft from 300D automatic will accomodate differences in length if wheelbase varies. But its a given that automatic and standard trannies require driveshafts of different lengths.

I hope you have good luck developing a fuel brew that provides best performance. Wintertime will be toughest for fuel gelling, hard starting and combustion chamber fouling. And as I'm sure you know, the 116 300SD qualifies as Vintage MB Classic worth maintaining for a lifetime, imported for only a couple of years. Excellent choice there, better than later models for doing your own work. Sounds like the car has a good home.

I just went through the revival of a 80 300sd. I would say that the first thing to do would be to adjust the valves and make sure you don't need new filters. As Dog said, you should change oil also. I found that until all of this was done, you reall shouldn't be adjusting any ip timing. Has this car been sitting for long? what is it's history? The dealer recommends a very frequent adjusting of the valves. I can't remember the exact time. Good luck. Feel free to email me with any questions. I truly enjoy these machines.

nick.mason@cbre.com

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1998 E320 150,000
1980 300SD 240,000
1965 190D 79,000

Another source says 12.7 seconds to 60 but that sounds optimistic as well. If you can't say exactly when the last valve adjustment was done then be sure to do that. It will definitely put the engine in order by doing that.

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1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power!
1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k

OH YEAH.....give me a 650hp, 811 lbft, V12 diesel in a lightweight road car and even I might be tempted to move to the dark(smokey) side !

I have a hard time believing 12 second times.
I think my '03 Golf TDi makes it in high elevens.

I have a 79 300SD in Wisconsin as well. I came up with 16 sec 0-60. Mine is quick for a diesel from a dead stop, but if I am already moving less than 30mph it will hardly move when I step on it. I've only been getting 18-20 tops for milage. I run on B100 homebrew. Mine either has a shift kit in the trans or something is wrong with it. if I floor it from a dead stop it will chirp the tires when it shifts to second. When I was 16 I spent 250 bucks to get my cutlass to do that. I can't imagine how someone could get close to 30mpg. This car is a rocket ship next to my 78 300D. (non turbo)

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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12
1982 380SL
1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing
1987 300 D
2005 CDI European Delivery
2006 CDI Handed down to daughter
2007 GL CDI. Wifes

i also have a fuel hog 79 300SD. I get in the low 20's mpg, but because of the excessive fueling (black smoke) the car gets 0-60 in the high 14-low 15 seconds. that car is remarkably peppy given the size. The only bothering thing is the high pitched whinning of the turbo.
That car needs a fuel adjustment

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Aquilae non capunt muscas! (Eagles don't hunt flies!)


1979 300SD Black/Black MBtex239000mi
1983 300TD euro-NA. White/Olive Cloth-MBtex 201000mi. Fleet car of the USA embassy in Morocco
1983 240D Labrador Blue/Blue MBtex 161000mi

The questions grow!
I can't hear the turbo and the hood mat went with the initial (to me) engine wash.
Still getting 25-30 MPG in Itialian style driving mode ... pushing the car with the right foot.
0-60 is 18.5 seconds. This was done with a cheap stop watch and averaged or four trials. Pulled a small trailer on the 4th. Lady didn't notice the weight.
Latest issue is lack of fuel to the pre-filter. I'll pull the tank sending unit and electric pump. Cheap manual has this pump under left rear floor panel accessible from underside ... ya, well either I'm blind or I like to be towed, but not on this car. Just recieved the CD manual so I'll dig through the atobrat files.
Chain has not been checked. Several banjos have been checked and are clean. Small sign of fungus in the fuel in the per-filter, not too bad and I do not know how old this filter was. Al filters and oil changed. I think old oil was Q-State by the smell and crud. Valves are on the list. Think I'll shorten 'on the list' to OTL. Engine flush and diesel purge OTL. Steering has a clunk in the colum on bumpy or wash board roads, OTL. Re-stuffing the seats, almost done. Welding and grinding new teeth on the R. front window regulator gear in the last 2" of window up movement, OTL (yes I'll use soft filler rod to not wear the motor gear). Converting to 100% WVO with diesel start/stop flush, OTL. Other than that, I plan on eating and some sleep this summer. Did I mention the climate controlls or lack of? I'll now use 'IPO' for idiot past owner ... But she is fun to ride, doesn't smoke except when starting and this is just a puff unless glow plugs have not been allowed to do their thing (did I mention the idiot glow plug light timmer). Picking up the new to me (=,s NTM) blower motor this weekend.

The old Lady was trashed by idiots and salt. Trunk is missing driver's side well and was driven in this condition for years on dirt roads ... full of fine dust. I'm still removing cigar and pot smoke from the inside.
Back to foreplay with the old diesel Lady.
Then there is the 83' 380 SEL. 134K miles. Picked her up in Austin, TX for a gal in Mpls. Blower shot. Shocks 40% (not active suspension). Sunroof won't open electricaly, one rear window reg and motor missing (tree parts should only be on the dash and console), one window reg slider shot (can't order part till I pull the other side to count the # of motor drive teeth). One tail light out (blub ok). OEM radio no go. But body is 99.99% perfect. Real brown leather 80%. Purrs along at 80 MPH and is strong. 21 MPG, 80 MPH, 1250 miles. Trany strong. I'm sure I can get her to mid 20's MPG. IPO did not know how to open the fuel hatch and "I haven't driven her in a while but do you realy think she needs the good grade fuel?" New owner is in love with this v-8 soon to be cherry gasser.