The weirdo screw thingy is #6 and #7..the articulted lever and restoring spring. I just figured because it's all metal that "who cares"...PLUS it appeared to be held on by lock washers and I wasn't sure if I could just pry them off...so I felt it was best to LEAVE IT ALONE!!!

I GUESS if I HAVE to take it off I will...but I don't want to!!!! It's just kinda "hanging" around, off the side of the carb body...it's HAPPY there....

Let me know!

~Christy

I think that little gizmo is one of the more interesting tidbits on the cars So much design energy went into that for so little a job.

Feel free to leave it in one piece.

-CTH

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Christy,
The 'throttle closing damper' should be mounted on the REAR carb ONLY.
It is mounted to this carb with 2 small screws or bolts. It should have a vacuum hose attached to it. It would have a RUBBER membrane inside it.
On page 68, fig. 3.54 'Exploded veiw of carburettor'in my Haynes manual it is pictured as # 130.
Of course your 1969 model MIGHT NOT HAVE THIS PART. The main thing is to NOT immerse any ELECTRICAL or RUBBER parts that you will have to reuse. Those parts may not come with the carb-rebuild kits, and carb cleaner may destroy them!
Good Luck,
Mark DiSilvestro

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DrDKW

The thing that goes about 3/4 of a circle and had a little tab at its center is called an "E-clip". You'll have to ask young JP as to why.

It is designed to be gently pryed off from the back by putting something between it and the axle it sits on. It can be pressed back into place just as easily, almost. Be prepared for it to go flying rather than clip into place. If you loose one, it's easily replacable at home depot or any good autoparts or hardware store.

-CTH

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Thanks for the info Mark! I have definately removed all the electrical and rubber vacuum parts..good info!

Now Cth..WHAT??!!!?!? Are you saying, that I HAVE to remove it OR I thought you said before to LEAVE IT!!??

PJ explained to me WHY it is an e-clip....
NOW...CAN'T I just LEAVE this silly little thing on???
Awwww C'mon!!

~Christy

You can leave it on.

-CTH

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Hi guys!

First off, as I went to dunk my carbs in the "death" bucket..I wasnted to knock off those of that excess gunk. Well, the more and more I look at and hang out with thiese carburetors, the more I get to know them. I NOW have found a SEVERE (I think) BLOCKAGE in one of those bores!!! I really hope that it could be part (or most) of my problem!!

SO..the ether test. My friend Larry came over and he helped me do the ether test, since these carbs are off. Tell me if this is good, bad, or ugly...The car really sputtered and stumbled more than it EVER has, but it NEVER fully ran, not even for a second. It that normal? OR should it have actually "ran" pretty normally for 2 seconds (instead of stumbling)??

~Christy

Depends on what you call run. I'm sure you know by now, what it sounds like to just run on the starter. Stubling at a higher RPM than that is much noisier. That does constitute running, just not very well. That is to be expected, since you're not giving each cylinder an even mixture to burn. If it stumbles more now (longer time), than it did before, then you're heading into better territory.

I hope you gave Larry a cookie.

-CTH

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Hey guys!

I haven't started the reASSemble yet! I am thinking about it and patiently awaiting my gasket kit...

Here's a question...is this gasket kit going to come with ANY instructions??? Or is this going to be like a puzzle, where I just figure out WHAT fits WHERE??

Also...Do these paper gaskets go on WET or DRY???

AND...anyone with any tips....PLEASE share your WISDOM!!!

Oh..BTW I ordered a "MAJOR" rebuild kit. What makes it different from a "MINOR" kit???

~Christy

Christy,
A minor kit would have mostly gaskets, maybe some small rubber parts. A major kit should have all the gaskets, rubber diaphragms,
float needle assembly, accelerator pump, maybe other parts, depending on carb application and kit manufacturer. The kit should come with basic instructions and an 'exploded' veiw of the carburetor.
You shouldn't need any sealer on the gaskets - don't need any extra goo getting into tiny orifices or ports in your carbs.
Good Luck and hope to have mine on the road again soon - I was smashed by a hit&run Buick LeSabre 2 weeks ago!
Mark DiSilvestro

__________________
DrDKW

You? Patiently? Gowan!

Yes, you're going to have to play a game of matchup, trying to figure out which gasket goes where. The fun part comes when you realize that there are 3 copies of the same gasket, almost. Just match up the three candidates on the piece they belong to. One will be better than all the rest.

The only instructions you get are the ones in the 108 manual. Stick with that diagram of parts so that we can read along with you.

-CTH

PS. Easter is a week away. Ask the easter bunny for a KD valve spring compressor. it's KD 3087 and can be found at the local autoparts store, usually, or can be ordered from places like this: http://www.mytoolstore.org/kd/kdengi13.html A set of metric feeler guages is another nifty present for the girl that needs everything mercedes.

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Ok Guys...

I was lightly cleaning #130 today, the vacuum regulator, when I noticed that the unit RATTLES when shaken. OF COURSE, I wasn't shaking it on purpose, I had turned it upside down and hear the rattle, then turned it rightside up, and heard it again, THEN started shaking it on purpose because at that point I figured what the heck.

So....WHO thinks this is normal?? Anyone??

Also...I got the rebuild kit and want to reASSemble this thing. Starting at the bottom, I decided to put back the mixture screw..AND..like a FOOL...screwed it in the WRONG hole!!! Now this screw IS screwed!!! :O*oof*

So...I am now prepared to CAREFULLY attempt this process AGAIN.
I am a bit confused...(obviously!)...my rebuild kit came with 2 possible choices to replace #52, the insulating flange. Both are the same thickness, but one is grey and one is black. The ORIGINAL piece is that nice bakelite material. NOW...should I RE-USE the original part OR use these "cardboard" wanna-be parts???

Another thing...nearly ALL of the washers that came off of my carb are broken in one spot ON PURPOSE (same as the pic in the MB book if ya look real close). All the replacement ones are WHOLE. What's that??

Wish me luck....
~Christy

Guys.....

I want to CHOKE this choke!!! Ggrrrrr!!

It IS the trickiest part of the whole Zenith carburetor.

Here's the problem...for some reason, I can't seem to get the throttle plate to shut completely AFTER ASSembling the choke housing. When the housing is OFF and I move the long bolt that controls the throttle flap, it shuts normally. Once I put the throttle LEVER (#19) and washers (#18 & #20)and the cylinder (#21 spacer bushing) and the NUT (#45)that hold all those things down, on, it will not completely shut. I've tried making the nut tight (way bad) and loose (not much help). It's ALMOST like everything is TOO CLEAN and STIFF in the linkage/lever (#19) department. Is that possible? Does it need oiled? They ARE external components (in a sense). Hhhmmmmm.
I've even tried adjusting the adjustment screw (#44) that peeks out of that little hole in the choke housing, thinking maybe it was bumping into that (#31) driving lever, but that didn't help either...BTW is the top of #31 supposed to "catch" the COIL inside the cover?? I think it is..

Like I said..taking it APART was EASY...

HELP!!!
~Christy

OK,

#130, the vacuum regulator. I haven't held one upside down recently, but I don't recall anything that should move. Ignore it for now, since it won't affect getting the car running. Use a vacuum plug over the plastic line for it.

Idle adjustment screw. If the threads are damaged on the screw, then you can't use it anymore without first retapping it. I won't ask which other hole you used.

#52, the insulating flange. As I said in a separate email, a new flange comes with paper glued to it. Now that your flages are clean, the paper is gone. The kit comes with replacement paper (yes, you keep the flange). You really need 4 pieces per carb and the kit has two. Make more on our own.

Washers, like item 53 are called lock washers (again, see a previous email). Every bolt should have one. You may well need to buy new ones. The fiber washers in the kit are something different.

The choke housing. This is were you need to compare the still assembled carb to the diassembled one. Watch item 32 carefully. That may be what's catching. Also watch the relationship between 23, 31 & 42. It's been a while since I did this, but you can assemble them wrong.

-CTH

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Christy,
Does the diaphragm inside the "vacuum regulator" hold pressure? If you blow (or suck) on the little tube that the vacuum hose connects to, does it hold or leak? Other than that I wouldn't worry about 'rattling' at this point.
As for the "choke VS throttle" problem, Normally when the engine is cold and the choke plate is closed, the choke mechanisim will also hold the throttle open slightly to give a fast idle when cold and keep the engine from stalling. Often, if you open the choke plate then jiggle the throttle then the throttle will close. Of course I can't see if you're assembling it correctly so you still could have a problem!
Usually a "bakelite gasket" is usually a spacer or insulator and has a thin paper gasket on both sides to actually seal it. Check to see if the kit has 2 thin gaskets to fit this spacer or does it just have 1 thick replacement gasket.
Good Luck,
Mark DiSilvestro

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DrDKW