What forum is this again, guys????? hee hee

OK..Yes I did SUCK on the vacuum regulator...alot!...it appears to have NO leaks...
NOW...my flange has NO paper on it. The replacements are paper and of the same thickness...should I use the paper ones, even though it seems to me that the original is nicer?? The replacement is probably sturdy enough or they wouldn't sell it..right?

About the wrong hole...it got in there by accident...it didn't work out....so I'm definately NOT trying THAT again..

No one mentioned about whether or not I can or should LUBRICATE all those MOVING PARTS (#18-#21) that are very STIFF...is that ok...or do you think there are other reasons why those parts aren't moving together smoothly??? Size??? Angles???
I'm serious!


~Christy

Christy,
Use the paper one but save the original just in case. a little ATF would be OK to lube carb linkages. Good luck.
Mark DiSilvestro
(Lemonaid Auto Service)

__________________
DrDKW

Hey Mark...

Does ATF stand for automatic transmission fluid????

~Christy

Christy,

Automatic
Transmission
Fluid

Mark DiSilvestro

__________________
DrDKW

The spacers provide insulation between the carb and the manifold. If the paper ones are thick, they'll do. The kits I'm used to supply thin paper. But I have about a dozen insulators I bought at 8$/each way back when.

The manifold gets hot and the carb needs to be as cool as possible to minimize vapor lock (SAT term).

-CTH

__________________
- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

Hi guys...
Ok. I figured out why the lever was not moving smoothly. That is no longer an issue.

Here's the problem...OK...now when I put all the parts back together INSIDE the choke housing, as the MB book shows it SHOULD be (see figure 07-1/5 on page 07-1/4), the throttle flap (side A) will NOT completely shut. It nearly shuts, but won't go all the way shut. The reason is, the little screw adjustment (45) BUMPS into the strep disc (47). SO...I tried to turn the screw (45) so it will ALLOW the throttle flap (throttle valve #7) to completely shut..however the screw must be turned so much to cause the shut to occur, that the screw practically falls OUT! This can't be right.

So...the only conclusion I can come to, is that possibly this throttle flap is supposed to have this slight gap. BUT..on the other carb it shuts completely and I thought this one was supposed to shut completely.
I am not trying to be hard headed, but I know I have these inerds ASSembled correctly.

Does anyone have any ideas on what it could be??

Note..that the strep disc (47) has little notches on it. Now when the end of that screw (45) falls INTO the notches, it DOES cause the flap to completely shut...it's just when I have it put together as shown, the flap is slightly gapped (as shown also)...

I guess the question is..I am trying to assemble this thing as if it were cold..it IS cold.. Should that flap be gapped?? I cannot put the insides together and have it not be gapped..

How does this thing work!!??? AAAaaaahhhhh!

~Christy

Christy,
The "disc" with the "notches" is
the fast idle cam. It may also be called a 'stepped disc'. It's SUPPOSED TO hold the throttle slightly open when the engine and choke is cold. It runs a cold engine at a fast idle to keep it from stalling.
Mark DiSilvestro

__________________
DrDKW

Christy,

You've got the basic idea. As a previous poster pointed out, when cold, the trottle plate is supposed to be cracked open a little bit.

You've also described just about exactly how it works, including the adjustment with the screw.

So, you probably did something right. Now, if you want to double check, take off the cover on the other carb and do a match up. Don't be surprised if the other carb doesn't have a little screw at all.

-CTH

__________________
- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

Thank you guys.....

I would have had this job FINISHED already if it wasn't for that CRACK...in the throttle plate..

You have no idea how glad I am to hear that it's SUPPOSED to be cracked just slightly...meanwhile, I've taken that mechanism apart probably 8 times...wracked my brain..cried...given up...and all this time it was fine.

Well..(knock on wood)...I'm on my way now!

~Christy

> I've taken that mechanism apart probably 8 times...wracked my brain..cried...given up...and all this time it was fine.

That sure sounds like a typical human relationship.

-CTH

__________________
- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

It is quite a relationship I have with this carburetor...

We've laughed together, cried together, shared intimate times together ( me and the vacuum regulator)...we have a mutual respect for each other...

~Christy

Nothing like a carburetor that's in touch with its feelings.

-CTH

__________________
- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

OK, lets think.

I believe that one of the carb sections fits rather nicely on top of a coffee can or a #10 can.

1. Get a can and make it "level" on your work bench. Use a SMALL level, if you have one. Try a few different directions, like the hands of a clock, at 2, 10, 4 & 5 O'clock.

2. Put a piece of carb on the can. Presuming the can is still level, is the carb part level? Again, there should be a dozen different ways to place the level on the component in question. If the plate is warped, some positions will be level and some won't.

The price of a replacement carb varies rather radically from place to place. Your best bet is either from me (yes, I have spares laying about) or a u-pick junk yard. There are several subtle variations to the them over the years, so carbs from a 220, 230 or 250 (the M114, not M130) are basically interchangable, presuming you keep all the brass parts from your carb. The M130 carbs have a slightly larger throat and if you use one of those, again, keep your brass AND replace both carbs, not just one.

-CTH

__________________
- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

CTH..

After I typed that message, I went back downstairs and touched that jet block again...and no kidding..it just FIT. I don't know...So...I came back up here and DELETED my post!!! Yes...I AM delirious!!!!!


Now...did you mention, that I should be using some sort of glue on these gaskets?? How important is that???

I'm on easy street with this carburetor now...from the jet block and up is a cake walk...and I've done it before!!!

Do I have to go to the auto store and get gasket glue??????

Even if I do.....
HEY EVERYONE!!! I REBUILT THE REAR CARBURETOR!!! YIPPEE!!!!
NOW...It's on to the front carb...woo hoo!!