Hello!
It's engine resurrection 4 (to quote CTH!)...just in time for Easter?? Afraid not!

I've torn into that front carburetor. It's going super quick, now that I've done the rear one..

Here's what I've discovered (so far!)....On the front carb, stage 2, which is controlled by the vacuum box...was completely stuck shut! I removed the BOX, then removed the choke housing. As you know, what is LEFT is the little device that the vacuum box ROD snaps onto and pulls by vacuum to OPEN stage 2. I tried to MOVE this device (with nothing ON it..) and it would NOT budge. SO...I (not knowing!) thought maybe it is supossed to remain shut all the time..but thinking it over, I decided that it WOULDN'T HAVE a vacuum box on there for no reason..SO at that point I used a little force and "broke" this little device FREE (I didn't actually BREAK anything, thankfully!). Now the stage 2 throttle flap will move.

The reason for for it sticking is/was good old fashioned GUNK build-up.

Now....this is a good discovery, right? This should help my car run...don't ya think?

I haven't even checked out the air holes inside the throttles to see if they're clogged too (as the rear carb was)....they probably ARE since this thing is soooo cruddy!!! I am literally SCRAPING this gunk off!!

AND..on another note...CTH was right (again!)...the front carburetor doesn't have an idle adjustment screw inside the choke housing..??

~Christy

Hi guys..

I just found out that the mixture screw in the front carb is BROKEN OFF!!
I think someone must have STUCK IT IN TOO FAR!!!

The rear carb had some air hole blockages...whereas this carb has more technical difficulties...and no air blockages..but for me, finding things WRONG with these carburetors is a good thing...now I don't feel like all my efforts are for not.

~Christy

I believe it's "for naught" but you certainly seem to be having a good time!

Chuck

__________________
Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe

HI guys...

I have a problem. I now have the front carburetor cleaned. That secondary throttle plate, that WAS stuck shut, will now MOVE, but it is VERY stiff. I can now see, with all the thick, black, crud removed, that there is some rust and corrosion on the part OPPOSITE the lever side....the side with the little e-clip...
It IS an external part of the carburetor, so can I spray it with a silicone product to free it's movement??

Any thoughts???
Anyone...please respond!!!!.....please??

~Christy

I would use WD-40 or carburetor choke cleaner rather than silicone spray. Remember that the secondaries get opened by vaccuum, not mechanical, so they have to move freely.

Chuck

Now..whether or not I did it RIGHT, is another story...

BUT....I rebuilt the Zenith 35/40 inat carburetors!!!! YAY!!

The WD-40 worked like a dream....that throttle flap moves with the greatest of ease.....

So....the next step is to attach them to the car. I am having doubts (serious doubts), that the car will magically start....but who knows!????

Cross your fingers!!!!

I'll let ya know how it goes!!!!!

~Christy

I've got my fingascrossed! I'm still waiting in terror!

Yugo girl.

-CTH

__________________
- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

HI guys.....

I miss having a question...
The carbs aren't on the car...yet!

I am waiting to get screwed and get my HANDS on some NUTS....

Once I get those nuts in my hands and get a screw or two....I'll be ready to DO the deed....

~Christy

Christy,
Sounds Kinky! But seriously - I usually re-use the original screws and nuts unless they're all lost or mangled. So, how soon before you're
'Tearing up Those Twisty Roads' in your Benz? The suspense is preying on us!
Happy Motoring, Mark DiSilvestro

__________________
DrDKW

Kinky's just her problem. Whoever screwed up the carbs before she did destroyed one of the screws.

-CTH

__________________
- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

I've been following this thread from the start and I must say, it's the best example of online instruction I've ever seen. I'm assuming Christy is a novice, but this rebuild is something even someone with moderate experience would find a little daunting. Hats off to Charles and Christy for a job well done, hope it works!

Kuan

She done most of it herself. I've just been helping her interpret what she reads in the manual. There have been at least 2 other assistants besides me in the mix.

-CTH

__________________
- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

Hi guys!!!

I got SCREWED today....

...and....I got my hands on some NUTS!!! (Remember Mark, that I had busted a nut a while back, and that was when I was told, to go get that CHEAP, OPEN BOX...)

So...all that taken care of, I am ready to DO the DEED!!!

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Quick question (from Dad..) He was told that I should be able to get the car RUNNING with a PROPANE torch!!?? Unlit, I presume!! He thought MAYBE I should try having someone hold the propane over the intake HOLES to see if the car will run. BUT...the car DID stumble on ether, which is more volatle than propane, right? Probably wouldn't matter, huh.

I promised Dad I'd ask....

~Christy

I know, I know....put the freakin' carbs ON already!!!
I like to PROLONG things...

You can tell dad that the ether test is on par with his propane one. I'm not sure which one is "safer".

BTW, there are kits available to run your car on propane or LPG. Not an option in this case, since they cost more than your car did.

-CTH

__________________
- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/