Hi all,

Went to my local autoparts store to see if they had a P/S puller that would work on my 72 250 M130. Lots of pullers, none that worked.

I enven tried the AC clutch puller and that did not work either.

How has everyone else removed the pulley?

Thanks

I was able to get the pulley off using a 'steering wheel puller' set from AutoZone.

I have a puller I bought for my '88SL...don't know if it is the same or not as yours but would loan it if it is...can you post a photo of the front of the pulley? IIRC mine had a circular ridge with at least one flat on it and the diameter was about 1.5" The tool fits under the lip of the ridge and you tighten down the center bolt which pulls the pulley off the shaft. If you send a photo or describe the front of the pulley maybe I have the tool you need?

I do remember that there isn't enough depth to that ridge to catch a normal gear puller on...that's why I got this special one that looks more like a socket with a slot in the bottom.

__________________
Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

here is the repair manual that shows the pump http://mb.braingears.com/114_115_Disk1/program/Chassis/46-760.pdf it's about 1.5-2" with 2 flat spots. It's a vickers. where did you find the puller if it's for vicker it will work. let me know if you need a deposit or something.

Jmela, I'll try the steering weel puller this weekend if nhdoc's doesn't work. do they only have 1? do you grab it from the center or the outside.

If I recall correctly, the puller arms are fixed to the outer rim of the pulley, while the pin presses against pump shaft.

Did you decide to reseal the pump yourself? If so, search the archives here, as one of the seals in MB's pump reseal kit fits poorly. Another part # was given for a better fitting seal.

If you purchased a rebuilt pump, you're good to go. If your steering hoses are old and crusty, now might be a good time to replace them. A hydraulic shop can help you with the high-pressure hose replacement. Make sure the replacement hoses are of suitable material, otherwise the hoses can 'sweat' as they absorb and shed fluid.

So a 3 jaw puller should do the same thing?

yes I am resealing it. I've already ordered the part. I received the PN from MB, but I'll do as search anyhow ...

Thanks

PM or email me through the board's system with your address and I will mail you my puller...when you return it you can add the cost of postage in with it...should be only a buck or two. I think it will work but if not you have little to lose. From my memory it looks like this only deeper:

http://cgi.ebay.com/SNAP-ON-CJ124A-POWER-STEERING-ALTERNATOR-PULLEY-PULLER_W0QQitemZ330038352289QQihZ014QQcategoryZ50379QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

When I tried a 3 jaw puller it would not work because I couldn't get enough bite under the ridge to pull it off and the puller kept slipping. The puller I landed up with slides in from the side under the lip. It was just deep enough to handle the protrusion of the shaft on it and it came right off (mine had a tapered shaft so as soon as it moved it was essentially off).

__________________
Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

If you have exposed shaft on the back side of the pully you may be able to take a piece of hardwood and drill a hole in it slightly oversized from the shaft. Then rip the board in two through the hole that you drilled. Then slip the board on the back side of the pully and place the two boards back together. Give the shaft a tap with the hammer and the taper should let loose.

If the pully is right up to the pump face, no dice.

no dice,

can't see the shaft from the back of the pulley...

I am looking through the archives, and I found this interesting Checklist: PS Pump Re-Seal

Specificaly "Remove pulley by backing lock nut off and using a sharp blow with a hammer to nut will cause pulley to pop loose from key"

This is a different pump but also uses a woodruff key. Any chance this same procedure would work or am I risking damaging the pump?

That might work on a tapered shaft...but I don't know if you can tell if yours is tapered or straight while the pulley is on it.

__________________
Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

I am going to look at my ps pump when I get home, we have the same car and likely the same pump. I may be able to give you some insight, but only what I would try, for what that is worth.

Where did you find the seal ? Mine is leaking, but I think most of it is coming from the high pressure hose weaping, The support rod for mine is also unattached to the motor due to the last owner breaking off the bolt. I get a pretty bad wobble to the pump at moderate rpm.

Will I hurt the pump if it is a straight shaft?

I probably have the same tool as you do. I bought a $40 tool from Sir, it broke. An $80 tool from ZDMAK worked fine but it was still nasty. All this to remove a #$%# pulley. Some have claimed to be able to "rap" or "pop" it off with wood, but it is a stamped pulley and it is very expensive to replace.

__________________
86 560SL
With homebrew first gear start!
85 380SL
Daily Driver Project

http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm

I just looked at my pump and it is a vickerr also. I think by looking at it that you should be able to use the method that I posted.

I failed to mention that when you place the wood on the back side of the pully invert the pump so the wood is supported by some blocking. Now when you rap the shaft of the pump, it will force the pump down and not the pully.

I know that it may be hard to visualize, but you are not hitting the pully, and only the shaft on the end. This should not cause any damage. If you have any concerns, go for the puller if you can find one that will work.

If you get a chance can you confirm what size seal that the vicker pump uses. All of the sources that I have found only offer the two sizes but don't state for which pump they work.

Good luck

Hey Blue I think I understand. It should look like this

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| ( ) | < = pump hangs from here
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Looks right?